Help keep blowing fuse for brake taillights.can't put shifter in drive.
I have 2001 grand Cherokee keeps blowing brake lights fuse.disconnected both rear taillights and brake switch on brake pedal still keeps blowing the fuse and can't move shifter out of park.any suggestions greatly appreciated.
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Look for a pinched wire under the shifter bezel.
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Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
(Post 3162525)
Look for a pinched wire under the shifter bezel.
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Reread my reply please.
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Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
(Post 3162535)
Reread my reply please.
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http://www.google.com/search?q=intela-traul&prmd=sinv&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAmoVChMInPW6z7njyAIVFlyICh3pNg1V#tbm=isch&q=ZJ+shifter+Bezel
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Originally Posted by Peter Saran
(Post 3162565)
Where is the shifter bezel located.thanks
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Originally Posted by Peter Saran
(Post 3162583)
I will look at that. I hope its that??thanks for your input
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Look for a pinched wire. It's causing a direct short to ground and that's what is blowing the fuse.
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Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
(Post 3162590)
Look for a pinched wire. It's causing a direct short to ground and that's what is blowing the fuse.
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I misunderstood your first post. I thought your fuse blew when you tried to shift out of park.
I'd start at the tail lights and instect all of the wiring. |
Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
(Post 3162638)
I misunderstood your first post. I thought your fuse blew when you tried to shift out of park.
I'd start at the tail lights and instect all of the wiring. |
SeriousOffroad gave some good tips to start with. Inspection may reveal things that are worthy of closer investigation and starting at the point of the first visible discovery is probably best. Just don't lose your view of the forest because you're looking too closely at the tree.
Normally, understanding the original failure-mode helps with the debug job. The damage is already done now, so finding that is the only thing that matters. Unfortunately, because this began with a meltdown, it is more likely to be a melted wire (or several wires). Important - Do you have a multi-meter or a test light? They are invaluable tools at times like this. Please bear with my line of reasoning for a moment because without schematics I'm just brainstorming. Hopefully to help with visualization. I believe that the circuit from the fuse to the lamp sockets is +12V, that the brake light switch is normally open and it completes the light circuit (switch closes) when you step on the pedal thus lighting the brake lights (normally). When the switch closes it energizes other "downstream" components, such as a shift lock. I think you're saying that the fuse blows instantly upon installation without touching the brake pedal. (This is probably why you cannot shift from Park - because the circuit after the brake light switch includes a path through the shift lock solenoid. This can be defeated with a jumper if necessary - bypassing shorted circuit wires and light switch.) You most likely have a short circuit to Ground. Measuring the resistance to Ground from several test-point locations will help you (approximately) determine the location of the short - at least in the zone at which end of the harness it's at - where you find the lowest resistance value. Once you're "in the zone" you can manipulate wires/harness until the continuity of the short is lost - that's when you'll find the fault. |
Originally Posted by Cherryokee
(Post 3162752)
SeriousOffroad gave some good tips to start with. Inspection may reveal things that are worthy of closer investigation and starting at the point of the first visible discovery is probably best. Just don't lose your view of the forest because you're looking too closely at the tree.
Thanks for your help.I disconnected t Normally, understanding the original failure-mode helps with the debug job. The damage is already done now, so finding that is the only thing that matters. Unfortunately, because this began with a meltdown, it is more likely to be a melted wire (or several wires). Important - Do you have a multi-meter or a test light? They are invaluable tools at times like this. Please bear with my line of reasoning for a moment because without schematics I'm just brainstorming. Hopefully to help with visualization. I believe that the circuit from the fuse to the lamp sockets is +12V, that the brake light switch is normally open and it completes the light circuit (switch closes) when you step on the pedal thus lighting the brake lights (normally). When the switch closes it energizes other "downstream" components, such as a shift lock. I think you're saying that the fuse blows instantly upon installation without touching the brake pedal. (This is probably why you cannot shift from Park - because the circuit after the brake light switch includes a path through the shift lock solenoid. This can be defeated with a jumper if necessary - bypassing shorted circuit wires and light switch.) You most likely have a short circuit to Ground. Measuring the resistance to Ground from several test-point locations will help you (approximately) determine the location of the short - at least in the zone at which end of the harness it's at - where you find the lowest resistance value. Once you're "in the zone" you can manipulate wires/harness until the continuity of the short is lost - that's when you'll find the fault. Thank you for your time and help. |
I'm going to jump into this one for a minute. If it's blowing the fuse with the brake switch disconnected, the short has to be in the harness BEFORE the brake switch. This system is hot at all times, so look for something that is likewise hot all the time. Something that is also controlled by that fuse. It's going to take a detailed circuit diagram to find it. The ones I have are a joke! I can't even find the brake switch on mine!
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