jgcl98

_Already posted this in general discussions but very few replies
Just bought this Jeep a few days ago (4.0 2wd) ran great for test drive and ride home (50mi) ran to the store(4mi) when i left the store it seemed like it wasn't shifting so i pulled over immediately shut it off (somewhat frustrated) about a minute later i started it back up and drove home fine so it sat overnight the next day i drove it around the block (no tag) it wasn't shifting again while trying to make it back (slowly) it stalled and would not crank back up battery died while trying so i charged it and put a little more gas in it (was low) still would not start (only turn over) so researches a little until i find it was probably cps so i changed it (duralast) fired right up so i tried around the block again still not shifting so i took it slowly back (stalled once but fired right back) let it sit for 30_45min and it would not start again what would cause this??

jgcl98

To add to all this it doesn't seem like my od button is functioning(did not check prior to buying)

Firestorm500

Sounds like multiple problems with different causes. Typical for a used car.

1. Check condition, level and color, of transmission fluid. Your non-shifting could be low fluid or burned bands internally.

2. Jeeps tend to prefer, and some Jeeps insist, on factory MOPAR CPS. Aftermarket quality seems to be hit and miss. I personally would never buy critical parts at Autozone anyway. People on this forum tend to replace CPS about as often as thermostats without a thorough diagnosis it seems. In reality, neither go bad all that often.

3. Check the usual ignition parts for wear and aging.

Good luck. Might want to get a Haynes manual for your Jeep. It's OK to buy that at Autozone as they are all the same.

jgcl98

Thanks for the input, today it started in ran no issues with without doing anything else, did check the tranny Fluid before this post and it was very clean (really bubbly) an did not smell burnt
But now my over head console lights are staying on

jgcl98

Lights fixed now to was door sensor

Firestorm500

Bubbly tranny fluid might indicate it is over full.

Check when hot, at idle, in park.

Hot is about 20 minutes worth of driving.

dave1123

Excuse me, Firestorm, but you don't check a Jeep transmission in PARK because the pump doesn't run in park. It's got to be checked in NEUTRAL. The level is almost a quart higher in park! Running a quart low makes a big difference how the trans shifts. It is also most likely why there are bubbles in the fluid. I figured being a Jeep veteran, you'd know that!

It should say on the stick to always check in neutral.

The CPS is a Hall-effect sensor that sends a pulse to the PCM every time a magnet on the flex-plate passes by it, thus sensing crankshaft position. It is very sensitive and critical to engine performance. This is why only a OEM part can be trusted.

Check your fuel pressure and probably change the fuel filter. The low fuel condition and the drive home could have stirred up sediment in the tank and plugged the filter or the pump intake screen. If it's the pump screen, letting it sit for a while allows the debris to settle and clear the screen, but the finer particles probably have plugged the filter. JMHO.

jgcl98

Well that's part of my problem part of my problem i did check in park(before post), and was just a little over the full line, checked in neutral (after) and over a qrt low thank you for the help

Firestorm500

Excuse me, dave1123, how you check the transmission fluid level depends on which transmission you have. Read on:
FLUID CAUTIONS:

ATF+4® MUST always be used in vehicles that were originally filled with ATF+4®.

ATF+4® is compatible with ATF+3 and can be used to top off vehicles that currently have ATF+2 or ATF+3.

DO NOT use ATF+2 or ATF+3 to top off vehicles that have ATF+4® fluid

The use of non-recommended fluids can result in transmission failure. The usual results are erratic shifts, slippage, abnormal wear and eventual failure due to fluid breakdown and sludge formation. Avoid this condition by using recommended fluids only.

A low fluid level allows the pump to take in air along with the fluid. Air in the fluid will cause fluid pressures to be low and develop slower than normal. If the transmission is overfilled, the gears churn the fluid into foam. This aerates the fluid and causing the same conditions occurring with a low level. In either case, air bubbles cause fluid overheating, oxidation and varnish buildup which interferes with valve and clutch operation. Foaming also causes fluid expansion which can result in fluid overflow from the transmission vent or fill tube. Fluid overflow can easily be mistaken for a leak if inspection is not careful.

FLUID ADDITIVES:

DaimlerChrysler strongly recommends against the addition of any fluids to the transmission, other than those automatic transmission fluids listed above. Exceptions to this policy are the use of special dyes to aid in detecting fluid leaks. Various “special” additives and supplements exist that claim to improve shift feel and/or quality. These additives and others also claim to improve converter clutch operation and inhibit overheating, oxidation, varnish, and sludge. These claims have not been supported to the satisfaction of DaimlerChrysler and these additives must not be used. The use of transmission “sealers” should also be avoided, since they may adversely affect the integrity of transmission seals.


FILTER SEAL CAUTION (545RFE):

The primary oil filter seal MUST be fully installed flush against the oil pump body. DO NOT install the seal onto the filter neck and attempt to install the filter and seal as an assembly. Damage to the transmission will result. Install the new primary oil filter seal in the oil pump inlet bore. Seat the seal in the bore with the butt end of a hammer, or other suitable tool. Place replacement filter in position on valve body and into the oil pump. Install screw to hold filter to valve body. Tighten screw to 40 in. lbs. torque.


CHECKING THE TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL:

All WJ transmissions have a dipstick to check oil level. It is located on the right side of the engine (passenger side). The dipstick cap and fill tube should be wiped clean before checking fluid level. Dirt, grease and other foreign material on the cap and tube could fall into the tube if not removed beforehand. Take the time to wipe the cap and tube clean before withdrawing the dipstick.

MODEL 45RFE or 545RFE: (used with V8 engines only)

1. Transmission fluid must be at normal operating temperature for accurate fluid level check. Drive vehicle if necessary to bring fluid temperature up to normal hot operating temperature of 82°C (180°F). The torque converter fills in both the P (PARK) and N (NEUTRAL) positions.

2. The engine should be running at idle speed for at least one minute, with the vehicle on level ground.

3. Apply parking brakes.

4. Place the selector lever in P (PARK) to be sure that the fluid level check is accurate.

5. Clean top of filler tube and dipstick to keep dirt from entering tube.

6. Remove dipstick and check fluid level as follows:

(a) Correct acceptable level is in crosshatch area or area between "COLD" and "HOT".

(b) Correct maximum level is to "HOT" arrow mark.

(c) Incorrect level is at or below "COLD" line. The fluid level will be approximately at the upper COLD hole of the dipstick at 70° F fluid temperature.

(d) If fluid is low, add only enough Mopar ATF +4 Automatic Transmission fluid to restore correct level. Do not overfill.



MODEL 42RE:

1. Transmission fluid must be at normal operating temperature for accurate fluid level check. Drive vehicle if necessary to bring fluid temperature up to normal hot operating temperature of 82°C (180°F).

2. Position vehicle on level surface.

4. Apply parking brakes.

5. Shift transmission momentarily into all gear ranges. Then shift transmission back to NEUTRAL.

6. Clean top of filler tube and dipstick to keep dirt from entering tube.

7. Remove dipstick and check fluid level as follows:

(a) Correct acceptable level is in crosshatch area.

(b) Correct maximum level is to MAX arrow mark.

(c) Incorrect level is at or below MIN line.

(d) If fluid is low, add only enough Mopar ATF +4 Automatic Transmission fluid to restore correct level. Do not overfill.





Transmission fluid, filters and service intervals
Transmission Fluid quantity Fluid & filter Interval A Interval B
42RE 4-6 qts. (service)
9.5-10 qts. (overhaul)

Mopar® ATF +4, type 9602
Primary Filter (internal, flat):
P/N 52118789
($14.35 MSRP)

(also adjust bands)

100,000 mi. 30,000 mi.
45RFE
OR

545RFE

5.5 qts. (2WD service)
6.5 qts. (4WD service)

14 qts. (overhaul)

Mopar® ATF +4, type 9602

Primary filter (internal, flat):
2WD - P/N 5015267AC
($21.35 MSRP)

OR

4WD - P/N 5013470AC
($21.35 MSRP)


Cooler return filter (internal, round):
2WD or 4WD - P/N 4799662
($16.95 MSRP)

100,000 mi. 30,000 mi.

jgcl98

Isn't there also a 46re, and How do you distinguish which transmission is which? I've read the most common in for the 98Laredo 4.0 2wd is the 42re. And the info about the types of fluid is a big help i almost bought +3(or Lucas) because it was all i could find. And sorry so long between my posts, next to work i don't have much so this is a really big help

dave1123

Well excuse my waa, Firestorm! From his description, he has the 4.0 so he's got the 42re. THAT one I know gets checked in neutral. I don't play with the big boys 'cause I've only got a little 6 as well. If he had a V8, it would be the 46re, right? Remember now, it's a 98. It's also 2WD, does that make a difference?

Firestorm500

You're excused, dave1123.

I was merely pointing out that the blanket statement you made inferring that [all] Jeeps have their fluid checked in neutral [only] was not exactly correct in all possible circumstances. Just as my statement was not exactly correct in all possible circumstances.

Many people with different combinations of vehicle equipment read these posts. I felt that a clarification was in order, just in case the reader had a different setup than the OP, didn't realize that it was so, and made a mistake.