Engine Cuts off.. Cat Converter Removed?
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6/ 4.0 L
Engine Cuts off.. Cat Converter Removed?
Hi,
I have a 1996 Grand Cherokee 4.0L. Automatic
I bought it from a guy as is. I noticed he removed the cat converter and drilled holes for sound I believe.
Anyway, the engine seems to cutoff every now and then. It will surprise me that on a warm day it will crank up first thing and I can take it to the store (10miles) and back without cutting off.
On another warm day. It will cut on and idle for 15mins then cutoff. It will start right up after it cuts off.
I have changed:
Spark Plugs, Ignition Coil (after check engine light code)
I know my distributor is good. Changed oil. Engine temperature stays at normal.
Anyway, I did have an error code for Cat converter. Is there an alternative way to figure this out.. I dont have the time, equipment to replace the cat since I have to cut the straight pipe and put it back on.
I do have oil leaking from my top of my engine cover and I feel like its made it into the spark plug holes..I cant really tell.
One more thing, it may be dirty ignition coils but would it be the ignition coils if I do not get a Check engine light code for that?
Thanks for the help!!!!
I have a 1996 Grand Cherokee 4.0L. Automatic
I bought it from a guy as is. I noticed he removed the cat converter and drilled holes for sound I believe.
Anyway, the engine seems to cutoff every now and then. It will surprise me that on a warm day it will crank up first thing and I can take it to the store (10miles) and back without cutting off.
On another warm day. It will cut on and idle for 15mins then cutoff. It will start right up after it cuts off.
I have changed:
Spark Plugs, Ignition Coil (after check engine light code)
I know my distributor is good. Changed oil. Engine temperature stays at normal.
Anyway, I did have an error code for Cat converter. Is there an alternative way to figure this out.. I dont have the time, equipment to replace the cat since I have to cut the straight pipe and put it back on.
I do have oil leaking from my top of my engine cover and I feel like its made it into the spark plug holes..I cant really tell.
One more thing, it may be dirty ignition coils but would it be the ignition coils if I do not get a Check engine light code for that?
Thanks for the help!!!!
#2
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What you mean with cutoff?
Does is sputter, backfire, stumble, gurgles and dies? Or does the engine without warning stop, like flipping a lightswitch?
Does is sputter, backfire, stumble, gurgles and dies? Or does the engine without warning stop, like flipping a lightswitch?
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Year: 1998 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Since you had the codes read, It would be best to post the exact code that you got. That would make it a little easier for use to help you out. Also as other mentioned how exactly does it cut off? Next time it shuts down. Pop the hood and check to see what you lost. Spark or fuel pressure.
#6
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Year: 1996
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#7
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Replace the cam and crank sensors. Those two items will cause stalling without warning or setting a code. Don't cheap out on the sensors, Mopar would be the best choice.
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#8
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Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6
I got a cheap '97 Grand w/ 4.0 about 6 months ago. It has perfect round holes in the muffler, but I think it came that way.
My first suspicion for your problem is an electrical connection that is losing contact occasionally, or a short in the wiring somewhere. The crankshaft position sensor is high on the list too, but I've seen where some "expert" posters say that they are either good or bad, there is no occasional cut-out with them.
That being said, mine developed a "dying occasionally" problem that ended when I fixed a wiring short in the crankshaft position sensor harness connector. Mine would behave much worse than simply shutting off and then restarting though.
Also, a few weeks ago mine began to die shortly after you started it. It has 161+k on it, and I've had it for 10k of those, and haven't done much maintenance to it so far. I took out the fuel tank and replaced the strainers. (I was going to change the pump, but the one I got from RockAuto was different than the existing one.) I've driven it 11 or maybe 12 times since then and it has only died once, and I think that was because I let go of the key too quick. It was fully "running". It feels like it's running smoother too.
My first suspicion for your problem is an electrical connection that is losing contact occasionally, or a short in the wiring somewhere. The crankshaft position sensor is high on the list too, but I've seen where some "expert" posters say that they are either good or bad, there is no occasional cut-out with them.
That being said, mine developed a "dying occasionally" problem that ended when I fixed a wiring short in the crankshaft position sensor harness connector. Mine would behave much worse than simply shutting off and then restarting though.
Also, a few weeks ago mine began to die shortly after you started it. It has 161+k on it, and I've had it for 10k of those, and haven't done much maintenance to it so far. I took out the fuel tank and replaced the strainers. (I was going to change the pump, but the one I got from RockAuto was different than the existing one.) I've driven it 11 or maybe 12 times since then and it has only died once, and I think that was because I let go of the key too quick. It was fully "running". It feels like it's running smoother too.
#9
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Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6
OK, I see BustedBack, who I believe knows what he is talking about, say the crank sensor can cause shut-offs. Take his word for it.
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
True that the crank sensor will usually just crap out without being able to restart, but I recommend replacing it due to age. It lives in a pretty hot environment, and heat is the killer of sensors. I recommend factory sensors because look how long the original parts lasted. The cam sensor is just easy to replace and fairly cheap.
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Year: 1996
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#12
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Year: 1996
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True that the crank sensor will usually just crap out without being able to restart, but I recommend replacing it due to age. It lives in a pretty hot environment, and heat is the killer of sensors. I recommend factory sensors because look how long the original parts lasted. The cam sensor is just easy to replace and fairly cheap.
I will try that thanks. Also, before the engine wants to stop running, the more i push the gas pedal the longer it keeps it running before I let go and cuts off.
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Year: 1996
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You know it may be related to that since you brought it up, the more I keep my foot on the gas pedal, the more I keep the engine running before it shuts down. Its not electrical because my instrumental panel stays lit up and ac running.
Sounds like it just needs fuel fed to it.
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