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Crazy 95 zj

Old 12-27-2017, 03:04 PM
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Default Crazy 95 zj

I have a 95 GC and since its been cold it has a long crank issue,,,when its cold and you turn the key to start it turns over but no spark,and no dash lights,,,,,,but if you keep trying for about 5 minutes of turning the car over,stopping turn over stop turn over stop about 50 times the dash warning lights come on,,and it starts,,,,,,,what the hell,,,,,,,no broke wires or corrosion to the ecu,,good fuel pump,,,,,,,,,,,,when parked in a warm garage starts right up,,,it only happens in the cold,,,please help,any thoughts appreciated
Old 12-27-2017, 03:13 PM
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Which engine?

Has the fuel pressure been measured while operating? Has the leak-down fuel pressure been measured once shut off? What are the results?

Has the FSM been used to measure the voltages throughout the vehicle according to the wiring diagram? Pick a failure point, like a dash lamp or another dead point, then measure the spots in the wiring diagram that are supposed to feed voltage to that point to see what is bad.
Old 12-27-2017, 04:36 PM
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There are 2 wires that come off the battery cable clamp. The fat one goes to the starter and only supplies power to crank it. The smaller one goes to the power distribution center (fuse/relay box under the hood) and supplies power for EVERYTHING ELSE!

My suggestion is you cut off the positive (red) cable clamp and replace it with a bolt-on repair end. That should cure your problem. The wires can get corroded inside the molded lead clamp and cause a voltage drop. If the electronics don't get a solid 12v, they don't function.

Just my opinion.
Old 12-27-2017, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by dave1123
There are 2 wires that come off the battery cable clamp. The fat one goes to the starter and only supplies power to crank it. The smaller one goes to the power distribution center (fuse/relay box under the hood) and supplies power for EVERYTHING ELSE!

My suggestion is you cut off the positive (red) cable clamp and replace it with a bolt-on repair end. That should cure your problem. The wires can get corroded inside the molded lead clamp and cause a voltage drop. If the electronics don't get a solid 12v, they don't function.
That is an excellent suggestion.

An easy first step would be to put one lead of a DC volt meter onto the battery post and the other lead on the clamp and then onto the other end of the wire, while drawing lots of current.

There should be very close to 0 VDC on good parts. Bad parts will have a measurable voltage.
Old 12-28-2017, 11:48 AM
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i changed the cable end a few months ago'i got good voltage at large and small wire,,,it's only when its really cold outside,if i use heated shop it starts right up.....it is a 2wd 4.0,automatic,,,,it turns over great,it just has no spark until it turns over for 5 minutes or so,,and only in cold,,,it is not fuel or pump related,there is no spark .

Last edited by lunyty; 12-28-2017 at 12:02 PM.
Old 12-28-2017, 07:41 PM
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You may have a "cold capacitor" in the PCM. Try turning the key on for a couple of minutes (with the warning lights on), then try starting. This gives the electronics time to warm up. It may not work, but it's something to try. If you don't get the warning lights, just wait for them. As soon as they come on, you should be able to start it. The trick is the odometer. When that comes on, you know the PCM is ready.
Old 12-28-2017, 09:30 PM
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This reply shows my capacitor replacement.
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