Coil Springs
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 95
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From: central new york
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Power Tech I-6
I thought maybe you were talking about the shock absorbers.
I only want ~1.5" lift to level it off, I'm going to shorten the springs with my bandsaw if it'll cut them, or the cutting torch if it wont, because the bottom ring is broken off of 1.
EDIT: maybe just use the grinder......
I only want ~1.5" lift to level it off, I'm going to shorten the springs with my bandsaw if it'll cut them, or the cutting torch if it wont, because the bottom ring is broken off of 1.
EDIT: maybe just use the grinder......
Last edited by ny_driver; Apr 29, 2011 at 10:24 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 95
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From: central new york
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Power Tech I-6
I knew exactly what you meant. Going out to the garage to tear into it now. If it comes out higher than I wanted in the back I could get some small front spacers without changing anything else out right?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: central new york
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Power Tech I-6
Too late. 
I shortened them up enough, by guessing, to give me a 2" lift in the back. I measured the part of the shock absorber that isn't painted. Hopefully the shocks will be ok. Stiffened up the rear suspension and she looks pretty mean now too!
Here's before and after pics.
I shortened them up enough, by guessing, to give me a 2" lift in the back. I measured the part of the shock absorber that isn't painted. Hopefully the shocks will be ok. Stiffened up the rear suspension and she looks pretty mean now too!
Here's before and after pics.
Last edited by ny_driver; Apr 30, 2011 at 11:33 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: central new york
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Power Tech I-6
Thanks bro! I can't wait to go run over some stuff. 
I did the fronts yesterday, and it took a lot longer than it should have because it took me awhile to figure out using the updside-down bottle jack between the frame and axle to get enough flex to get the springs in.
This morning in ~3 hours, completely by myself, I removed the rear springs, cut the old fronts down some, and installed them.
Getting the springs in and out is the easy part....it's getting the swaybar link and shock bolts out that takes some work, at least it does on an old NY vehicle. I used a Map Gas torch to heat my bolts, the yellow can instead of propane that you'd do soldering with.
It's easy, you can do it. You just need some tools.....metric wrenches oddly enough. I used a grinder with 7" disk to cut the springs down.

I did the fronts yesterday, and it took a lot longer than it should have because it took me awhile to figure out using the updside-down bottle jack between the frame and axle to get enough flex to get the springs in.
This morning in ~3 hours, completely by myself, I removed the rear springs, cut the old fronts down some, and installed them.
Getting the springs in and out is the easy part....it's getting the swaybar link and shock bolts out that takes some work, at least it does on an old NY vehicle. I used a Map Gas torch to heat my bolts, the yellow can instead of propane that you'd do soldering with.
It's easy, you can do it. You just need some tools.....metric wrenches oddly enough. I used a grinder with 7" disk to cut the springs down.
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