Dr J

Bought 96 GC LTD. Guy said A/C had been out, no diagnosis. Clutch not engaging, added 1 can of 134a, clutch engaged intermittently (and no squeal), blew minimally cold air (an improvement). Clutch engaged and worked properly with A/C switch turned on and turned off. Added second can of 134a and clutch still works properly, air got colder. BUT clutch squeals constantly when A/C switch is on. Clutch disengages when A/C turned off and squeal stops. Sound like I should replace clutch, $130 from AZ. Read plenty of posts here, but how difficult is it? Gear puller required? Does the other part (rubber clutch seal?) come with it? Should I buy anything more? That sound like the problem to you? Thanks!

Bustedback

For about 70 bucks more you can get a whole new compressor.

Dr J

Yeah, I saw the price diff and since the A/C is from 96, probaby the best decision. I can muscle stuff, but some times don't trust my smarts. I know I can get the clutch done, but if that doesn't fix it, I'd just be out the $130. If I replace the compressor and clutch, I'd have to replace all that new 134a. I've got a vac pump I could rig up - how technical is that? - I don't have a guage (yet). What are/ where can I find the vac specs? Also, I just added the UV detector and so guess I should get a UV light and check o-rings. But, if cracking the system, best to do those too. Can I get o-rings at parts stores? Any technical specifications to them? Where are they? Finally - what else should I be doing, replacing? Thanks.

Bustedback

If the system was low there is a good chance there is a leak someplace. Anyplace there is a connection between components there is a potential for a leak. Leeaks can be easily spotted by oily, dirty goop at the junctions. I just replaced all of my hoses and receiver dryer for less than a hundred bucks with parts from www.rockauto.com . It's not reall a hard job replacing the hoses if you have the tools for the quick connectors. Tools can be found cheap at any parts store, guages can be found in pawn shops for cheap a lot of the time. You'll want to have the refridgerant evacuated from the system befor you start removing hoses, otherwise you may get a face full of R134A and oil. You can have a shop evac the system and then you replace all of the parts you need and then take the vehicle back to the shop and have them vacuum the system down and recharge it. It may be more cost effective to do it that way.

Dr J

That sounds like a reasonable thing to do. I've got a shop that's full of young talented folks who keep the budget in mind - they don't mind finishing something you start (like the last ball joint that you simply cannot get out without a torch) or just plain old giving free advice. Just trying to be as penny-wise but not as pound-foolish as possible. Thanks, I appreciate your responses. Just wish I was as knowledgeable as some folks out there so I could be of more help to others.