Brake line fitting sizes are killing me...
 

'96 ZJ w/ rear disc brakes- Here's my best guesses:

Master Cylinder to Combination Valve - DIN/ISO Bubble Flare - one M10 x 1 fitting, one M12 x 1 fitting
Combination Valve From MC - SAE/Double Inverted Flare - one 7/16-24 fitting, one 1/2-20 fitting
Combination Vale to HCU - SAE/Double Inverted Flare - one 3/8-24 fitting, one 1/2-20 fitting
HCU from Combination Valve - DIN/ISO Bubble Flare - one M10x1 fitting, one M12x1 fitting
HCU to Brake Lines - DIN/ISO Bubble Flare - Right M11 x 1.5, Left M12 x 1, Rear M10 x 1
Front Lines to Hoses - SAE/Double Inverted Flare - 3/8-24
Rear Line to Rear Hose - SAE/Double Inverted Flare - 3/8-24 fitting
Rear Lateral Lines - SAE/Double Inverted Flare - 3/8-24 on both ends

Total:
3x M10x1
1x M11 x 1.5
3x M12x1
1x 7/16-24
2x 1/2-20
8x 3/8-24

Hopefully this will be helpful to someone else. Also, let me know if anything seems wrong!

This all came about because I broke a hard line or three while trying to get the hoses off. Just going to redo all the lines now. After a big internal debate between stainless and copper-nickel tubing, I decided on the .

Got fittings for inside the engine bay. Think they're brass or steel. Doesn't matter much, since I got stainless steel ones for all the fittings outside the engine bay.

The only real downside to the copper-nickel is decreased erosion/impact resistance. Chances are though, that anything that takes out these lines would have taken out stainless as well. Still, I got stainless line protector. I was a bit worried about galvanic corrosion of the lines caused by the protector, but they should only be about 1.5V difference max, so it *should* be fine. I hope.

I also spent way too much money on flaring tool. I figure I'll be using it several times in the future though, and if I'm flaring tubing, it's almost definitely something where I'm willing to pay a little more for quality.

I plan on straightening the tubing with just a long hole drilled through a length of 2x4. Not perfect, but I don't see anything significant to be gained from a real straightener. Similarly, I'll probably just use a large socket for bending. I'm on the fence about buying a bending tool, but I just don't think I'll get better results by using it in this case.

I hear you. I just re used all of the fittings when I replaced my brake lines.

A few of mine required... convincing to remove.

I have the same flaring tool and it's worth it's price. I also have the Eastwood tool https://www.eastwood.com/professiona...ring-tool.html which works great as well but needs a vice.

I know what you mean but I just convince them back on again lol

I just take the old one in and match it up.

autozone rents for free the bender and flaring tool BTW.