TopWop

Ok so ive got a 96 limited with the v8. what axles are under it. and will they hold up to to 33 or 35 with lockers arbs or ox not sure what im puting in them. I dont wheel hard its a family wheeler/dd. thnaks

99NCXJ

If its a full time 4x4 it should have a D30 (with cv axles) in front and either a D35 or aluminum D44 in rear. 35's will be pushing it on either. especially the rear if its a 35.

tsconver

all 4wds had D30s in the front, if it is a v8 it has a D44 in the rear. D44 will handle the 35s fine but the parts for wheeling it are very limited such as lockers and the like. Only locker out there for the aluminum 44 is the Aussie and it is only available used. There are no selectable lockers for the aluminum 44 rear end.

WJCraig

I wouldn't go over 33's if you're wheeling it on a regularly. If you're mostly on pavement, you should be ok and just want the "look" 35's would be fine...

TopWop

Its not just the look. I need it to function off road. I do plan to wheel it but not hard light trails. light to mid diff. that sucks that thats the only locker out there. can i use diff axles under it like d44 out of somthing else?

nick_n_ii

Only if you or have some one weld the brackets on. And if you go that wrought just get a Ford 8.8

TopWop

Thats fine welding i can do. Is there a front d44 that i dont have to cut down to make work.

nick_n_ii

Get a D44 from a Full Size Jeep Waggy or a a HP Dana44 from a EB(early Bronco)

TopWop

Will i need to cut it down.

BlueXJ

Early Bronco's were very close in width to a D30 so I doubt any narrowing is required but the suspension stuff will have to be welded on.

nick_n_ii

The EB D44 HP is about 3/4" narrower if I remember the numbers right.. It's close enough that you don't need to narrow or widen..

OverlandZJ

The EB 44 also comes with 260 u-joints. Custom shafts are required for a larger joint making the EB less desirable.

If you can weld, and mounting brackets to an axle housing are within your capabilities then i dont see cutting tubes and rewelding inner knuckles as much more of an issue.

Ford HP 44, cut off the inner C's, shorten tube to use stock Grand Waggy shafts, add mounts and you have a very good axle under an XJ.

nick_n_ii

There are also the '75-'76(think I got the year right) D60's from the Ford F-250..


As for the EB u-joints that's on all but the last year of that axle. That is the one that got the upgrade..
Some where I have the axle break down, I'll have to look for it..

nick_n_ii

OK maybe it's another axle that was like that......

Vehicle: '71-77 Ford Bronco (D44 front, Ford 9" rear)
Bolt pattern: 5 on 5.5" -- same as a CJ
Width: 58" rear, similar front.
Brakes: Front drums '71-75, 11" front discs '76-77, 11" rear drums. How wide are the rear drums?
Spline count: 30-spline D44 front, 260 (small style) U-joint, 28-spline 9" rear (31-spline available in aftermarket)
Caster: ???
Other: Very stout combination, but the 9" rear would give a hellish rear driveshaft angle on my SOA YJ. The coil suspension mounts will need to be removed from the front. The knuckle U-joint is the smaller D30 variety, but can be enlarged by swapping in F-150 shafts (long side must be shortened). Front diff is 3-4" closer to center than the YJ D30, but clearance with an SOA is fine. Diff is on driver side, like YJ. Spring perch is not integrated into the diff housing. Rear diff is centered, but pinion is 1.5" to the right of center. Like Scouts, the stock tie rod / knuckle mounting holes lose turning radius. Chris Waterman swapped EB axles under his SOA YJ. I may never forgive myself for letting my brother sell his '76 EB for $500. If only I'd known then what I know now...

OverlandZJ

I wasnt aware the EB had upgraded joints in last year of production... good info Nick. Still, i imagine finding a set would be tough, much less having JY spares available.