philwarner

Changing the trans filter on my 96 ZJ 5.2 with HD cooling and IV tow package, and found two pan bolts had extra little rings on them about 1/2 OD between the bolt washers and the pan. I am guessing these are not stock since there's no mention of them in the service manual. Is there a place where these are needed?

I once had to take the pan back off my 86 Pioneer when I used just the rubber pan gasket and it leaked, so I plan to use Permatex B non hardening on the ZJ pan gasket. Is this or any other sealant recommended? Again the service manual says nothing about using sealant.

There were just a few metal flakes in the pan and one piece of what looks like a section of a 6-1/2 inch diameter ring .06 thick, .125 wide, 1 inch long, slightly curved, shiny on three sides, rough like cast on the back, and non magnetic. I don't see a similar void in the body of the trans or on the bottom lip. Any idea what it is from?

And finally, given the few metal flakes and the "ring" piece, should I also back flush the trans cooler before I refill the trans?

tiwvr1

It kind of sounds like a piece of clutch pack, have know idea how you still be moving if it was? Does your OD still work?

ct67_72

the ring you found in the pan is the O/D retaining ring. it retains the O/D clutches in the tail housing. This is a very common failure. assuming nothing else looks bad, its possible to pull the t-case, and o/d section off with out removing the whole trans and repairing it.
The longer you wait though the worse it will get.
There is also an updates snap ring to resolve this problem. I keep lots of them in stock

philwarner

Thanks, Dan. I'll check the tail piece removal in the manual; better now than on the road sometime.

Another quick question. My cooler lines at the trans go into hexagonal metal fittings on the trans case that have two gray plastic "ears" on either side of the line; do these push in to release the line or do you do something else? And which is the pressure line, the one toward the front or the back one?

philwarner

I think it was working, but I hadn't driven it very much yet. I wanted to change all the fluids before I went very far since it already has 265K miles on it and I don't know the history.

ct67_72

yeah it should work fine. there are large gaps in the case and thats where the ring comes out from. but if it keeps coming out the whole geartrain can shift and do major damage. Or it will burn up the o/d clutches.
yes, you can squeeze the tabs to pull the lines out. they may still not want to come out. Sometimes we have to burn them out and replace them. or you can try to turn the case fittings out but it usually disrupts the seal.
Im having a moment but the rear line should be the return if I remember right.
Honestly if your going to be in there pulling the rear, do yourself a favor and replace the governor pressure sensor and solenoid, and sonnex lube regulated pressure regulator, and manual valve. That will be a nice update and cure the drainback issue, which is your delay, and will also prevent converter damage.
Nice cheap insurance. Do the solenoids at least anyway.

jnicewan

On the cooler lines sometimes it helps to try to push the metal line into the fitting or give it a wiggle while squeezing the tabs and then pull cooler line out, maybe even try to spray some cleaner or air in them to try to remove dirt/debris and then some WD40, before disconnecting them. The squeeze clips/seals can be replaced and is actually a good idea to replace them as they are know to break and blow the cooler lines off.

Front cooler line is hot/out, rear cooler line is cold/in

philwarner

Thanks again Dan, Do the tabs come out with the line? The CD manual fot the ZJ doesn't show much, but my OEM manual for the 96 XJ AW4 seems to show some kind of rings on the disconnected trans lines. Does it take pliers of will finger pressure release them? Sorry for all the questions - I just don't want to break anything.

philwarner

Oops, I posted my last question before i saw your answer. Thanks. Still need to know if the tabs stay in the fitting or come out with line.

ct67_72

he explained perfectly. Now that Im thinking, the tabs stay in the fitting. you spread themt o get them off the line. clean them out and look inside if you can to see the retaining tabs.
I think they will come out if you squeez them, but its harder to do that way, they come in the fitting and are meant to stay in.
and you should be able to get them out by hand. as long as they are clean. Crap in the fitting will keep you from releasing the tabs.
Like I said though, dont worry much, you can get new ones.
You shouldnt have to remove them to pull the o/d section off though.

philwarner

Thanks again to jnicewan and Dan for the advice and cooler line info,

With a little WD40 spray and moving the trans cooler lines in and out first, my cooler lines came off pretty easily, although I did have to use pliers to squeeze the tabs. And, yes, the tabs stay in the fitting.
I was able to reverse flush several quarts of mineral spirits through the coolers and the last 2 cups came out nice and clean. I blew out the lines and flushed a quart of +4 through before reconnecting them.
The ZJ manual says you have to remove the converter drainback valve from the pressure line at the cooler in order to back flush, but I didn't find anything I recognized as a check valve so I just flushed everything through the trans cooler lines from the trans end.
It took 5-1/2 quarts of +4 to refill (didn't use the 1/2 quart that came through the cooler after the mineral oil flush), and I think it may need another quart to get to the right hot level; will check level again in the morning. So far no leaks from the lines or the pan.