Sleepwalker

Hello all.. This is a great site and have learned a lot in last few days.. we plan to buy camper or boat around 22ft with max wt around 4000lbs... cart before the horse (?), but looking at a 2010 JGC 3.7L V6 auto with 73k miles, a real beauty, but needs a trailer hitch... understand tow capacity about 5000lbs.... I know we would be better with a V8 but have read (here) that the JGC V8 with aluminum heads have overheating issues.
I have never towed and I'm new to all this and will appreciate any input..
Thanks...Sleepwalker

dave1123

To start off, the 3.7 is the 4.7 without 2 cylinders. All the problem are the same with both engines and you'll be putting quite a load on that 3.7 towing 4000 lbs.

If it doesn't already have a trailer hitch, chances are it doesn't have the rest of the tow package either. This includes an aux trans cooler and a trailer lighting package to convert your 6 light system to the trailer's 4 lights.

You should also keep the O/D locked out to prevent the trans overheating. This will increase your highway RPM and effect fuel mileage.

My opinion? Don't buy a 3.7 to tow 4000 lbs. I know you didn't want to hear that.

Welcome to CF!

Sleepwalker

dave..
thank you for your reply... I appreciate your advice.. next question..
there is a 2006 JGC with gas V8 4.7L/287 auto with 96,784 miles for sale by a dealer we know... they are asking 12,587k... here I'm gonna prove my ignorance again... on the dealer specs there is no mention of added trans and oil coolers... and without knowing it's past history regarding overheating aluminum heads and overheating issues... like a pig in a poke... could I add coolers and factory hitch, lights etc and then tow the 4000lbs?
my wife and I were prepared to fork out around 16k for the V6.
thanks again... Ernie
PS I emailed Jeep.com asking their advice and am yet to get any reply... surprise... surprise...

dave1123

Sounds like a plan to me. You'd be much better off with the 4.7 and it should work well if you maintain it and don't overheat it.

If I remember right, the 2006 is known as the WK. This model has independent front suspension, I think. I know just about nothing about the WK. The 4.7 in the WJ ('99 to '04) uses a hydraulic driven engine cooling fan that uses the power steering pump for power. IDK if the WK does, but it is expensive to fix if it starts to leak. Just a warning. There are write-ups on this site about retrofitting an electric fan to replace it.

Rob82

Hey sleep walker I have a 99 with the 4.7 love the setup it has done everything I've ever asked of it to include towing not quite the weight your looking at but close the biggest suggestion I can give you regarding towing is first like Dave said 4.7 is the better choice for towing and make sure you have the trans coolers also I'm not sure on the years your talking about but mine has the dana 44 all aluminum rear diff there are all kinds of horror stories out there of people pushing the max towing capacity and warping the diff enough to cause gear hum and not be fixed with shimming. I personally have never had this happen but know of people who have granted they were pulling max capacity and then a little more over long distances just some input other than the usual trans cooler, v8 is better ect...hope this helps

Sleepwalker

Thank you gentlemen for your support... TODAY Fri 15Aug14 the wife and I are going for a test ride in a 2006 JGC Limited, 4.7 V8 auto with the fact installed trailer hitch (I'm told, with a trans cooler...) it has almost 97k mi but she's a beauty!! we have checked the VIN nbr and had 2 previous owners and no issues reported (?!)...
Dave you are right that the '06 is the WK series (my wife surfs the internet and got a lot of scoop including info on the WK or 3rd generation Jeeps... my, don't I sound like I know what I'm talking about!... I'll need to check on the cooling fan you mentioned...
Rob, presently we only have an inflatable to pull but I will take you advice on watching the load we eventually pull.
Thanks again guys, and wish us luck....
Ernie

dave1123

I don't know how much towing you've done, but adjust your boat trailer so you only have about 200 to 250 lbs on the tongue. That may require adjusting the boat cradle forwards or backwards and loading your gear in the same places every time. Actually anything you tow should have a maximum of 250 lb tongue weight. This is to minimize spring sag and loss of control by pitching up the front end. It's like having a man standing on the rear bumper. Any less can cause sway or trailer "wagging" at speed. If you tow light loads, make sure you have more weight on the tongue than behind the axle.

You should be able to see the trans cooler thru the grill in front of the A/C condenser. It might also be a long strip under the radiator but also in front of it.

Also, you're going to want to keep the O/D locked out towing that much weight. (4000 lbs)