Fuse or relay?
12-30-2017, 05:36 PM
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee(WJ)
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Fuse or relay?
May have hooked jumper box up backwards. I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Larado. Won't start gas gauge doesn't move. Have a good battery now. Scanner says it can't read make sure ignition switch is on. Does spin over great. Is there a fusible link or a relay built in just for idiots like me🤓
12-30-2017, 05:48 PM
#2
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Hmm. If there is a fusible link, and there probably is, it is typically between the battery positive terminal and the power distribution center (fuse/relay box under the hood). However, typically your ignition switch (at the key) gets power from there, and sends power back through there to control the starter relay and starter solenoid. So if you are cranking, without starting...I think the connection between your battery and the power distribution center is probably intact.
However, an inoperative gas gauge, and failure to connect to OBD2, combined with a cranking no start are classic symptoms of a failed crankshaft position sensor.
Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor and see if you get your gas gauge and OBD2 connection back.
However, an inoperative gas gauge, and failure to connect to OBD2, combined with a cranking no start are classic symptoms of a failed crankshaft position sensor.
Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor and see if you get your gas gauge and OBD2 connection back.
12-30-2017, 07:39 PM
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Hmm. If there is a fusible link, and there probably is, it is typically between the battery positive terminal and the power distribution center (fuse/relay box under the hood). However, typically your ignition switch (at the key) gets power from there, and sends power back through there to control the starter relay and starter solenoid. So if you are cranking, without starting...I think the connection between your battery and the power distribution center is probably intact.
However, an inoperative gas gauge, and failure to connect to OBD2, combined with a cranking no start are classic symptoms of a failed crankshaft position sensor.
Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor and see if you get your gas gauge and OBD2 connection back.
However, an inoperative gas gauge, and failure to connect to OBD2, combined with a cranking no start are classic symptoms of a failed crankshaft position sensor.
Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor and see if you get your gas gauge and OBD2 connection back.
I have located the sensor but for the life of me can not find the connector. Tomorrow Im getting my neighbor to help me push it in out of the cold.if that doesnt solve it what other advice do you have and I do appreciate your time Thanks Donnie
12-30-2017, 09:57 PM
#6
CF Veteran
If it is a 4.0L inline 6, the crankshaft position sensor connector is at the rear of the valve cover on the driver side. It is a 3 pin connector. The harness usually has a little bracket that holds it to either a valve cover stud or a fuel rail bolt (can't recall). Google it for more specific images.
You may get more specific help from those more knowledgeable with Jeep Grand Cherokees in that forum:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f5
This particular forum is for the Jeep Cherokee XJ (1984-2001)...Like the one on my avatar.
You may get more specific help from those more knowledgeable with Jeep Grand Cherokees in that forum:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f5
This particular forum is for the Jeep Cherokee XJ (1984-2001)...Like the one on my avatar.
12-31-2017, 05:45 PM
#7
Old fart with a wrench
On the 2000 4.0, the connector for the CPS is on the PASSENGER'S side and the wire to the CPS runs behind the cylinder block. When I changed mine, I tied a string to the plug, then pulled it out, switched the string to the new plug, and pulled it back in. Easy Peasy. You'll find it near the oil pressure sensor. Also when changing the CPS, I dropped the trans crossmember and lowered the trans to get access to the sensor, BUT it was on a lift!
Some guys say you can access it thru the floor at the trans shift cable cover. I've never done it this way, but here's some pics; First pic in wrong place!
Last edited by dave1123; 12-31-2017 at 06:01 PM.
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01-01-2018, 01:48 PM
#8
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I did disconnect same result no gas gauge and scanner not picking up jeep another thing I noticed the radiator fan comes on immediately
01-01-2018, 03:52 PM
#9
Old fart with a wrench
Try cleaning the diagnostic link plug. My jeep was doing the same thing until I did that. You could get it to work by wiggling the connector, but it wouldn't stay linked. Worth a shot.
01-01-2018, 05:52 PM
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noticed that light with slash going through a key is on also and I did try what you suggested. No signal to scanner
01-01-2018, 06:23 PM
#11
Old fart with a wrench
Okay, the key-slash light it telling you the security system isn't recognizing a valid key. I'm willing to bet you have electrical continuity problems. If the system doesn't get a good clean 12 volts, all kinds of odd things can pop up. Have you looked carefully at the battery cable ends? Sometimes the wires can get corroded inside the molded lead terminals. There are 2 separate wires, one supplies just the starter for cranking and the other supplies power to everything else thru the PDC and fuses.
Just the other day, my jeep wouldn't start, wouldn't even crank. Checked the battery, 7.8 volts! When I hit the key, my tach and speedo needles would swing full circle and all gauges went dead. I charged it for 2 hours and it struggled to life, but my tach and speedo didn't work. Looking closely, the needles were on the wrong side of the stops. I drove it to Battery World and had them install a new one. When it fired up, everything worked normally. The old battery was only 32 months old and gave no warning of failure. It only sat for 30 hours in sub-zero cold for it to die. They checked it when they took it out. It was fully charged, but on a load test it pulled the load for 10 seconds, then died away.
Just the other day, my jeep wouldn't start, wouldn't even crank. Checked the battery, 7.8 volts! When I hit the key, my tach and speedo needles would swing full circle and all gauges went dead. I charged it for 2 hours and it struggled to life, but my tach and speedo didn't work. Looking closely, the needles were on the wrong side of the stops. I drove it to Battery World and had them install a new one. When it fired up, everything worked normally. The old battery was only 32 months old and gave no warning of failure. It only sat for 30 hours in sub-zero cold for it to die. They checked it when they took it out. It was fully charged, but on a load test it pulled the load for 10 seconds, then died away.
Last edited by dave1123; 01-01-2018 at 06:27 PM.
01-01-2018, 08:06 PM
#12
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Okay, the key-slash light it telling you the security system isn't recognizing a valid key. I'm willing to bet you have electrical continuity problems. If the system doesn't get a good clean 12 volts, all kinds of odd things can pop up. Have you looked carefully at the battery cable ends? Sometimes the wires can get corroded inside the molded lead terminals. There are 2 separate wires, one supplies just the starter for cranking and the other supplies power to everything else thru the PDC and fuses.
Just the other day, my jeep wouldn't start, wouldn't even crank. Checked the battery, 7.8 volts! When I hit the key, my tach and speedo needles would swing full circle and all gauges went dead. I charged it for 2 hours and it struggled to life, but my tach and speedo didn't work. Looking closely, the needles were on the wrong side of the stops. I drove it to Battery World and had them install a new one. When it fired up, everything worked normally. The old battery was only 32 months old and gave no warning of failure. It only sat for 30 hours in sub-zero cold for it to die. They checked it when they took it out. It was fully charged, but on a load test it pulled the load for 10 seconds, then died away.
Just the other day, my jeep wouldn't start, wouldn't even crank. Checked the battery, 7.8 volts! When I hit the key, my tach and speedo needles would swing full circle and all gauges went dead. I charged it for 2 hours and it struggled to life, but my tach and speedo didn't work. Looking closely, the needles were on the wrong side of the stops. I drove it to Battery World and had them install a new one. When it fired up, everything worked normally. The old battery was only 32 months old and gave no warning of failure. It only sat for 30 hours in sub-zero cold for it to die. They checked it when they took it out. It was fully charged, but on a load test it pulled the load for 10 seconds, then died away.
Thanks I’ve had a battery tender on it since Saturday I have checked the terminals. I will recheck
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