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Ok, didn't really feel much like working on the jeep. Underwent gamma-knife surgery for an egg sized tumor behind my left ear, been getting severe headaches and neck pain. They just prescribed some steroids, but they're not really doing any good. But, I did hunt down the source of the exhaust rattling, 30 seconds and a big crowbar fixed that!!! So the new exhaust is on the back burner for now. I also did the throttle kick-down cable adjustment. Like a totally different jeep !!! Had no kick-down before, flies now !!! Shifts really smooth, much better !!! I ordered some new valve cover torque spacer grommets, waiting on them. Then going to do the distributor and oil filter adapter gaskets at the same time I upgrade the alternator and build new 2awg cables. Next, will be pulling the starter and doing the oil pan. Might try to squeeze in the injector upgrade followed by the front brakes. Going to upgrade to discs in the rear at a later time. Still have a few things on my list before any suspension mods. Pretty much have decided on 3-4.5" lift. Want to get that and gas tank skidplate or a bigger tank all together, before I do the exhaust. Thinking maybe Banks header with Magnaflow 2.5" hi-flo cat and muffler.
Last edited by CRLAMBERTJR; 04-25-2018 at 11:09 AM.
Ok, didn't really feel much like working on the jeep. Underwent gamma-knife surgery for an egg sized tumor behind my left ear, been getting severe headaches and neck pain. They just prescribed some steroids, but they're not really doing any good. But, I did hunt down the source of the exhaust rattling, 30 seconds and a big crowbar fixed that!!! So the new exhaust is on the back burner for now. I also did the throttle kick-down cable adjustment. Like a totally different jeep !!! Had no kick-down before, flies now !!! Shifts really smooth, much better !!! I ordered some new valve cover torque spacer grommets, waiting on them. Then going to do the distributor and oil filter adapter gaskets at the same time I upgrade the alternator and build new 2awg cables. Next, will be pulling the starter and doing the oil pan. Might try to squeeze in the injector upgrade followed by the front brakes. Going to upgrade to discs in the rear at a later time. Still have a few things on my list before any suspension mods. Pretty much have decided on 3-4.5" lift. Want to get that and gas tank skidplate or a bigger tank all together, before I do the exhaust. Thinking maybe Banks header with Magnaflow 2.5" hi-flo cat and muffler.
The link you gave me was to unsubscribe from this thread.......
Subb'd.... I'd recommend a different oil filter than Fram though. We refer to it as the "Orange Can of Death" around here.
Go with WIX or Napa Gold (store-brand Wix). Mopar is decent also. K&N, Fram, and I think even Bosch had crappy or no anti-drainback valves. So anytime you run one of those filters, you're starting your motor without oil. Purolator and Motorcraft are good filters too, from what I hear.
Well, I haven't really felt well enough to do anything. I'm still trying to figure out what I want to end up. At first, just wanted 2-3"lift w/31s. I've really been inspired by the white Cherokee in the April Cherokee of the month. Check it out !!! I've pretty much made up my to go with OME 930 coils and an ACOS up front. I've decided to go with a set of OME 3.5" leafs with shackle relocating brackets. I
like the no lift models, but you have to cut out the old shackle pocket. Mine are in great shape! I think the stock pockets with some of the solid 1" lift designs would be stronger. Plus wouldn't have to drill thru the floor in the back hatch. I found one set on ebay, all welded solid, uses 3 bolts in the original pocket, would have to be stronger! I've decided to go with these and a stock shacle. Netting around 4.5" lift before settling. I'm hoping to end up around 3" whatever, I'll be able to level the front to match. I am getting a set of 784 injectors from the guy selling them here on C.F.. I believe that I have located a set of Banks Revolver Headers with a Magnaflow muffler. Will start piecing the rest of the exhaust together. I have a slight intermentate wobble in the front end at around 55mph. Checked the sway bar bushings, they are hamburger. So now going to order a set of the red Prothane bushing kit. So many things to fix ! Still have to replace the oil pan gasket and the oil filter adapter gaskets and maybe the distributor gasket too. Plus upgrade the battery cables. Sometimes hard to figure which direction to go?
Ok, here's what I have on the way,,, the HD nut strips from XJWONDERS. I have also reserved one of the 62mm throttle bodies from him as well. Waiting for the seller, to buy a set of Banks Revolver Headers and a Magnaflow muffler. Got the headlight wiring harness and set of 784 injectors from Jeff here on CF. Got a new set of 1" Prothane bushings coming from eBay. Also talked to another seller here on CF, to get a master hardware bolt kit. Still undecided on which shackle relocating brackets to get. I really like the ones i found on ebay from DR Z fab.
Installed, 1" lift. They come bare metal.
So, its these or a set of the HDs ??? I'm in no great hurry. My jeep is actually pretty sound right now. I fixed the alternator problem , just cleaned and tightened the connections and the serpentine belt. I've also located a set of heavy gauge battery and ground cables. Probably be getting these soon too. I've been trying to address the main issues first, but keep stumbling on really nice upgrade parts and others at great prices! I found both of the exact part number o2 sensors on ebay,,,NGKs @$37 ea. I've found that building the jeep is a lot like hunting, it's the hunt, not the kill ! Will update as i go !
Ok, so i started replacing the front sway bar bushings,,, was doing really good ! After pre- soaking everything with Kryloil for two days,, I managed to get all 4 of the main bushing bracket bolts loose w/o breaking any !!! So I moved to the top bolt on the driver side end link, I took my time and babied it till there was about 1/8 " of the thread left, I even let it cool off 3-4 times while loosening it, plus I wire brushed the threads in advance,,,and it snapped !!! So when I went to the other side, it was rusted really bad under the bushings and snapped on the first try !!! The link was probably only 1/4" thick where it broke ! I was trying to save them for later replacement with new discos after the lift. So I had to go buy new OEM link kits for both sides !!! Guess I'll just sell them later to someone in the non-modified forums ? I also had to buy a new set of Torx socket set, as mine are in storage !!! 1 hour of running for parts and $60 more dollars later, I think I'll just wait and button this up tomorrow, and go take a nap after a cold beer!!! I'd pretty much forgotten that working on the jeep is a lot like working on plumbing in an old, old house !!! As soon as you fix one leak, something else starts leaking or breaks !!!
Here's some pics of the bushings installed. I went with the Prothane poly bushings. The old ones were crumbling !!! Both of the original sway bar links had rusted to about 1/4" in diameter and broke when removing the top nut, so I replaced them with new OEMs. I torqued the main bushing bracket bolts to 40ft lbs , 70ft lbs for the lower link bolts. I don't see how you could torque the upper link bolts @ 27ft lbs . I stopped at only 13ft lbs and the bushings were too mushroomed and deformed. I'd say that they would crack if you went all the way ! I sanded and painted the sway bar with 2 coats black rustoleum. I can tell a big difference on small curvy roads! My steering wheel is just a bit off center now to the left? Going to check out the alignment now.
BDCC/my press! This is Miss Bailey, my helper ! Pressing out the new rubber OEM bushings from the new OEM links. Some necessary tools for the job! Here's some pics of the parts and the finished outcome.Driver side. New bushing and bracket. Passenger side. After backing off the upper nut, passenger side. Passenger side upper bushings tightened to only 13ft lbs !!!
Last edited by CRLAMBERTJR; 05-10-2018 at 03:23 PM.
Reason: Error
Just had a thought, while looking at the pictures of my main sway bar brackets. One is seated forward, while the other side is more to the rear. Going to adjust them to make them even, see if it moves my steering wheel back to the center ? Sounds logical ??? It moved my steering wheel out of center after I changed the bushings. Made it move to the left.
Just had a thought, while looking at the pictures of my main sway bar brackets. One is seated forward, while the other side is more to the rear. Going to adjust them to make them even, see if it moves my steering wheel back to the center ? Sounds logical ??? It moved my steering wheel out of center after I changed the bushings. Made it move to the left.
Swaybar shouldn't have anything to do with that. Your trac bar (panhard bar) is what keeps the axle centered. So unless you messed with the suspension height somehow, the axle should still be centered.
Nope, only replaced the sway bar bushings. The old ones were crumbling. Passenger's side of the sway bar was worn to clean metal under the main bushing? The driver's side was not, it had bad deep pits and rust? I'm wondering if the sway bar has been bent ? I put it all together loosely with the weight on it, then snugged it down. Had a hell of a time getting the passenger side to line up, the bracket was off by nearly 1/4" of lining up one of the bolt holes? I'm suspecting that the sway bar has been bent.
Last edited by CRLAMBERTJR; 05-12-2018 at 08:52 AM.
$60 the wonders of ebay, mud packers removed!
Have to let my back recover from the sway bar bushings, before I start on these. Need to get a new set of OEM upper bushings and the nut for the fronts. My front and rear bump stops are gone, nothing anywhere!!! I am kinda leaning towards the OEM bs. Will have to check lengths after the install. I also was wondering about the progressive bs for the rear? Am thinking about just trying the ACOS adjuster up front with my OEM coils ? They still seem fine and firm. Just the ACOS alone will add an inch. I know the other poly spring levelers are cheaper, but I just want the added adjustability for down the road when my leafs settle or if I decide to go higher. Plus, they look cool as hell !!!
Nope, only replaced the sway bar bushings. The old ones were crumbling. Passenger's side of the sway bar was worn to clean metal under the main bushing? The driver's side was not, it had bad deep pits and rust? I'm wondering if the sway bar has been bent ? I put it all together loosely with the weight on it, then snugged it down. Had a hell of a time getting the passenger side to line up, the bracket was off by nearly 1/4" of lining up one of the bolt holes? I'm suspecting that the sway bar has been bent.
Probably so. One sure-fire way of knowing would be to remove it and set it on flat ground and see if it sits level.... not that I'm suggesting you go through all that after having just wrestled with the install lol.
Hind sights 20/20 ! I sat it on the concrete, it didn't rock. I'm thinking now I wish I had leaned it forward to check if both ends hit at the same time. I loosened up all of the lower bushings yesterday and drove it afterward, didnt change a thing. It won't be hard to remove this time. I'm wondering if it only exposed another problem. At 208k, probably wouldn't hurt to go through the whole front end.
So many areas I want to address. I've decided to go ahead and replace the ball joints, u-joints and tie rod ends, Spicer. Just installed new Moog WBHs. Kinda wondering if I should have gone with the SKF or Timkens ? Going to upgrade to the ZJ tie rod. I'm just going to snug up the sway bar bushings for now. I'm thinking I may have a bent sway bar. Anyway, that will be a simple fix now. After that going to replace the control arms. Only reason I can figure that the steering wheel is off center, bout have to be a bent sway bar. Tires are wearing good, doesn't pull either way. I was thinking of going with adjustable control arms and installing them before I do my lift. Was also wondering if you can adjust the control arms easily afterward ? Kinda interested in the Durango steering box upgrade too. With all of the front end redone and new shocks, should drive like a new one! Damn I love my Jeep!!! I really enjoy each project !!! I'm even thinking about just waiting to get all the parts and my lift, and doing it all at once! Be a lot easier to work with the knuckle out of the way ! I'm also going to just buy the proper tools rather than rent them. Tools=Toys !!!
You'll love the way your jeep drives with new steering joints and control arms/bushings. It'll be like a whole new Jeep, man.
For bearings, Timken is the way to go. Some people have had problem with Moog lately, but I still swear by them, myself. I like the design and they look and feel quality made. If you can afford 'em, get 'em.
Definitely recommend the v8 ZJ tie rod setup. I ran one in mine for a few years before getting a free upgrade to the Rusty's HD Crossover steering. I'd still be running the ZJ setup if not for the free gift.
Might want to hold off on the adjustable LCAs because MOST of them I've seen have a "minimum" lift height of 1.5" or so inches. If you can get a set with "zero to" whatever height, then sure go for it. I would imagine adjusting them after having them installed already wouldn't be all that different either way as long as you set them to the correct length.
Here's a chart for that for reference:
I haven't done the durango steering gear box swap, but I've heard mixed review on it, mostly positive. Here's a real good thread on the topic:
04-20-2018, 02:29 PM
