Project Shaggin' Wagon, a 1987 Jeep Wagoneer Limited Build
#1
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Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
Project *******' Wagon, a 1987 Jeep Wagoneer Limited Build
It is a little preemptive to start a build thread now, but since i have done a lot of little work (while waiting for taxes for my lift kit) i figured i might as well document it.
Heres "THE LIST"
Clayton Offroad 4.5" Long Arm Kit (or 6" i dunno yet)
HD Offroad Engineering v2 Shackle Relocation Boxes
Bilstien 5100s
Iron Rock Offroad Hack 'n' Tap
Napier Precision Products Fender Flares (gotta stay legal in MD...)
-FAR FUTURE-
Stroker (of course)
D44 front (to match the D44 rear )
Doorless Mod
lots of stuff i havent thought of yet, but will.
As it sits right now (pretty much how i got it from the Previous Owner)
first thing i did was take off that step ladder on the passenger side.
Then, in good old renix fashion, the TPS started to give me issues. Traced the problem to the C101 connector and decided, "hey, its 24 years old, and causing voltage drop. it has to go." So, i rewired it. Took out about 3 feet of extra wire on every circuit. Also did a write-up on NAXJA about it, but i will not link it because i dont know how CF is. Pics are from the write-up.
This is where i was going to make the cuts to join the harness.
Started to make the cuts, and tie the wires together to keep track of them (i wasnt done with the lengths yet)
Progress shots
and then i put it all back together. (sorry for the lack of pics. it got dark)
I will keep adding on, but since i am at work, i do not have as much time as i would like to keep going.
Heres "THE LIST"
Clayton Offroad 4.5" Long Arm Kit (or 6" i dunno yet)
HD Offroad Engineering v2 Shackle Relocation Boxes
Bilstien 5100s
Iron Rock Offroad Hack 'n' Tap
Napier Precision Products Fender Flares (gotta stay legal in MD...)
-FAR FUTURE-
Stroker (of course)
D44 front (to match the D44 rear )
Doorless Mod
lots of stuff i havent thought of yet, but will.
As it sits right now (pretty much how i got it from the Previous Owner)
first thing i did was take off that step ladder on the passenger side.
Then, in good old renix fashion, the TPS started to give me issues. Traced the problem to the C101 connector and decided, "hey, its 24 years old, and causing voltage drop. it has to go." So, i rewired it. Took out about 3 feet of extra wire on every circuit. Also did a write-up on NAXJA about it, but i will not link it because i dont know how CF is. Pics are from the write-up.
This is where i was going to make the cuts to join the harness.
Started to make the cuts, and tie the wires together to keep track of them (i wasnt done with the lengths yet)
Progress shots
and then i put it all back together. (sorry for the lack of pics. it got dark)
I will keep adding on, but since i am at work, i do not have as much time as i would like to keep going.
Last edited by jakbob; 01-26-2012 at 10:11 AM.
#2
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
lol *******' wagon. Your first jeep photo makes me so glad I grabbed a set of those turbine wheels off craigslist - they look sweeeeet.
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Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
to the C101 writeup?
Only cause a mod says its okay
they are sweet... still thinking of keeping them.. but im going into the 33-35" range and i dont know how they will deal...
Only cause a mod says its okay
they are sweet... still thinking of keeping them.. but im going into the 33-35" range and i dont know how they will deal...
#7
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
12.5s. I'd ideally like to run 10.5s, but Firestone doesn't make my favorite tires in that size...
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Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
if i can afford a set of these
it would be awesome. i like the retro-ish look. and well, my rig is old. as old as i am actually.
#9
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
nah, people do it all the time. i'll never have to worry about a bead coming off or curbs hitting my wheels
case in point - 33x12.5s on turbines
case in point - 33x12.5s on turbines
Last edited by dukie564; 01-26-2012 at 12:29 PM.
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Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
little more time at work. the hood paint was failing (rattle can white) so i decided to paint it like this
all was good. sanded it down, looked really good. then two weeks later, hosing it off, and it looks like this
apparently the jeep was originally creme. then rattle canned to white. well in between those, the PO didnt sand anything off of the creme. so the paint came off in chunks the size of my size 12 boot.
so what did i do? thats right. busted out some slave la- i mean, my stepson wanted to know about painting. so here i am teaching him. of course, my girl was super excited
him standing on the Detours USA Backbone system (no winch yet )
i figured, "what the hell, he is 5... cant hurt ****ed up paint"
all was good. sanded it down, looked really good. then two weeks later, hosing it off, and it looks like this
apparently the jeep was originally creme. then rattle canned to white. well in between those, the PO didnt sand anything off of the creme. so the paint came off in chunks the size of my size 12 boot.
so what did i do? thats right. busted out some slave la- i mean, my stepson wanted to know about painting. so here i am teaching him. of course, my girl was super excited
him standing on the Detours USA Backbone system (no winch yet )
i figured, "what the hell, he is 5... cant hurt ****ed up paint"
Last edited by jakbob; 01-26-2012 at 12:34 PM.
#14
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Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
thanks. by the way, my waggy is from up there. KY to be exact. one of the PO's attended NAXJA's MWC's WinterFest in 2008.
upgraded the low beams yesterday (got too tired to do the highbeams). these are how cherokees are wired for their headlights (same as mine except the beam selector switch wires dont end in a 3 prong plug, but two seperate 2 pins, one for each light.
Now mind you, it was super dark and cold when i did this, so i just did it in MSPaint
as you can see, the wiring goes HOT>HEADLIGHT SWITCH>BEAM SELECTOR SWITCH>LIGHTS. this is confirmed through a wire diagram, but you get the idea.
the problem with this is that the stock harness' 18 gauge wire can handle the amperage of the lights, so the switch burns out, wires burn out, etc. so instead of the headlight switch and the beam selector switch handling all of the power, i decided to turn them into triggers for relays.
^thicker line means thicker wire in the pictures^
i just mounted two relays next to where the fog light relay is (on renix), ran a 14 gauge hot lead to both of them, cut out the old 18 gauge, and re-pinned both stock headlight connectors with 14 gauge wire. i grounded them out on a bolt on the fenderwell hidden when the front clip is attached. headlight output is so bright, i can see my headlights when the sun is already up (not on a super bright day. more like overcast) no need to rewire the triggers with bigger wire because they well... are triggers. very low power. and the best part, all of this is hidden in the stock harness behind the grill. no dangling wires.
when i wire the highbeams up (probably saturday) ill take some real pictures and then edit them.
upgraded the low beams yesterday (got too tired to do the highbeams). these are how cherokees are wired for their headlights (same as mine except the beam selector switch wires dont end in a 3 prong plug, but two seperate 2 pins, one for each light.
Now mind you, it was super dark and cold when i did this, so i just did it in MSPaint
as you can see, the wiring goes HOT>HEADLIGHT SWITCH>BEAM SELECTOR SWITCH>LIGHTS. this is confirmed through a wire diagram, but you get the idea.
the problem with this is that the stock harness' 18 gauge wire can handle the amperage of the lights, so the switch burns out, wires burn out, etc. so instead of the headlight switch and the beam selector switch handling all of the power, i decided to turn them into triggers for relays.
^thicker line means thicker wire in the pictures^
i just mounted two relays next to where the fog light relay is (on renix), ran a 14 gauge hot lead to both of them, cut out the old 18 gauge, and re-pinned both stock headlight connectors with 14 gauge wire. i grounded them out on a bolt on the fenderwell hidden when the front clip is attached. headlight output is so bright, i can see my headlights when the sun is already up (not on a super bright day. more like overcast) no need to rewire the triggers with bigger wire because they well... are triggers. very low power. and the best part, all of this is hidden in the stock harness behind the grill. no dangling wires.
when i wire the highbeams up (probably saturday) ill take some real pictures and then edit them.
Last edited by jakbob; 01-26-2012 at 02:09 PM.
#15
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Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
sorry i didnt grab a before shot with the headlights. i will however, get a before shot when i re-wire the highbeams. This is how much light it puts out now, and it is 45 feet from my house.