I have no intention of reproducing these bumpers and selling them. It was an enjoyable project, repeating it would detract from the experience.

 

Absolutely love these bumpers you ever thought about making and selling bumpers similar??? I have a 94 zj and I've been looking for bumpers for it and even thought about making my own, but I just don't have the time.

 

Like many build threads before mine, I've taken a break and had multiple life changes. Weeks after finishing my bumpers, I took a girl on a date and now we have been married for three and a half years and have two little girls. In that time, we moved to a city an hour away from where I grew up, I finished school, and I've been working for my current employer full time for the last three years.

Now that I have a little more time and some extra cash from this last years tax return, I get to turn some wrenches and add some parts.
This spring the plan is to:

• Replace the leaking head cover gaskets
• Finally install the OME Coils (going for a 3 inch lift)
• Install Rancho RS9000X extended shocks
• Cycle the suspension and add bump-stop extensions
• Remove the plastic side cladding for a cleaner look
• Touchup the various paint scratches and chips
• Fix the leaking steering box (hydraulic lines at least, may do a Durango upgrade)
• Install UV axle shafts and spicer style pinion yoke
• Replace the broken front drive shaft with a Tom Woods double cardan
• Fix the transmission cross member mounts (broken nuts in the frame)

While I'm at it, I will also address previously mentioned modifications. I feel like sharing with the forum will motivate me to accomplish these goals, I appreciate any feedback.

 

I searched google for "Cherokee Forum Skyhunter". It's interesting that a Russian Pinterest page was the number two result. It reminded me of an article I read last year.
Gangsters in Russia imported ZJ's in the 90's, even today they are associated with mobsters. Give it a read, here, but be aware that there is some non-family friendly language.

 

I've been collecting more parts and got some work done this weekend. As most "quick" fixes go this project spanned three days. Between running to the store for tools, the junk yard for a replacement part, and a family gathering, I was able to get it done by Sunday afternoon. Removing the ABS tone rings was the most troubling task. The largest 3-Jaw puller available was about 1/16" short of pulling the passenger side. A quick pass with the grinder took care of that. While pressing in the u-joints I somehow managed to break one and had to run to the local self-service yard to retrieve another.

About six weeks ago I replaced the power steering hoses, though it seems a leak is still present. I'm thinking about doing a UV test to locate it.

Rust repair is the pressing item. As shown in the second picture the fenders are rusting out. I really wish I had addressed it years ago when I first removed the liners. Dirt accumulated behind the liner, the alkaline soil ate away the paint, and the moisture compounded the rate of rusting.

 

This last weekend was a bummer. I got a lot of work done despite the rain and seized parts, though I will be redoing much of it.
This is the space I had to work in at a relatives place. The garage is more of a work shop and there was no room to pull in. It was better than doing it outside of my apartment on uneven asphalt. Also, I could put the tools and parts in the garage all spread out instead of packing them inside every night. I'm also glad to have had access to a welder, air compressor, drill press, come-along, and torch.


In the front I disconnected the lower control arms, tie-rod, and track-bar, dropped the axle and pulled the springs. Years ago I should have used anti-seize on the track-bar adjustment threads. It took a torch, pipe wrench, and a cheater pipe to get it out.



I drilled and tapped a 1/2-13 UNC hole in the spring perches for my bump-stop spacers made from 3" diameter 6061 aluminum. Weeks beforehand I purchased a 6 inch piece from McMaster-Carr, drilled a 1/2 inch hole on a lathe at work and cut two sets of various lengths on a band saw. To estimate the length needed I found the difference in radii between a stock tire (225/70R16) and my current size (265/75R16) to be 1.624 inches. I cut two 1 5/8" pieces and with extra stock I cut pairs of .5" and .75" in case the 1 5/8" wasn't enough. With the springs out and everything reconnected I lifted one wheel at a time, turned the wheels to full lock in both directions, spun the tires by hand at each full lock, checked for clearance, put in a spacer, repeat...



In the end I needed a single lock washer on the passenger side steering stop and only the 1 5/8" spacers. With a little sheet metal bending and hammering, my lucky estimation worked out perfectly. Note that I have an adjustable track-bar, stock Ultrastar rims (16X7), 1" wheel spacers for about 4 inches of backspacing, WJ LCAs, and JKS ACOS with rubber bump stops. Other applications may have different results.




I purchased a set of used OME HD springs sometime in 2015 for under $200. That was a mistake, I'll explain why towards the end of this post.



Next I disconnected everything again, lowered the axle, put the springs in, lifted the axle, reattached everything, and adjusted the track-bar to center the axle. This would have been far more difficult without a come along and two jacks.




While cutting the bar pins off of the front shocks, to re-use my JKS BPEs, I dropped one and broke the adjustment ***. I ordered a couple replacements for $30 with shipping through Amazon. With the *** broken the valve opens completely, so until Friday one corner will ride extra soft.



Like the front I disconnected the rear axle, removed the springs, raised each wheel, and measured for bump stops. For the spacers I used a 1.5x2 6061 aluminum bar, again from McMaster Carr. By testing I decided to use the 1.5" thickness for spacing. Next, I drilled holes to match the brackets and bought longer bolts. The passenger side bracket came out easily enough. The driver side bolts had rounded rusted heads and foam glued in. First I cleaned around the bolts with a needle-scaler. Irwin bolt extractors didn't bite into either head, I also broke a left hand style screw extractor bit. One came out with a nut welded to the head. The other head broke off and eventually was drilled out. I tapped the hole and used a 3/8 bolt instead of the stock M8-1.25.





Next I got the springs back in, shocks mounted, the wheels on, and lowered the Jeep off the jack stands.

After working from Friday afternoon to Sunday afternoon I had everything back together, centered the steering, and measured to check the height from wheel center to fender edge. They all came out very uneven. Like I said earlier it was a mistake to buy used springs.


Measurements are: adjustable coil spacer / lift height

Front driver: 1.5" / 4.25"
Front passenger: 3.375" / 4.25"
Rear driver: 2.875" / 2"
Rear passenger: 3.25" / 3"

I didn't note my initial measurements nor is this with the Jeep empty. These were made with tools loaded in the back.

The only adjustment I made was to the front passenger side. The rear was previously adjusted for the old stock springs, they may have been sagging or the body is tweaked. After seeing all the variation in the shot OME springs I decided to leave it for now. It had been a long weekend with late nights, early mornings, breaks for the weather, and too many trips to the store.

I was hesitant to install these springs in the first place. They are advertised to give 1.5 inches of lift but most people will get 2.5. I was certain that I wanted the adjustable spacers to level the Jeep side to side and have the rear sit .5" higher when unloaded, their minimum height is 1.5". At the same time I had heard so much about the ride quality of OME springs. My hesitation came from the knowledge that 4" is usually the threshold necessitating adjustable control arms, SYEs, transfercase drops, and other issues. I went ahead because I had the springs on hand and the last time I towed a trailer with two Jetskis the suspension was bottoming out on the shot springs. It was embarrassing to have my brother hitch it up to his minivan loaded with 5 kids and tow it with no problems.

To remedy the situation I've ordered a set of MOOG variable rate springs. Part numbers CC782 and CC721. They are the same length as stock springs but are better suited for my current set up and should hopefully ride as smooth as OME springs. On the bright side, the bump stop spacers and steering stops are adjusted for the shocks and tires already. The shocks are designed for 2-3" of lift and the longer springs wouldn't net any additional down travel. Also with the MOOG springs I can adjust and level the Jeep without exceeding a 3" lift.

It will be at least a couple weeks before an update. I'm taking the family camping this coming weekend.

 

I redid the coil springs this last Friday and retained the rear OME springs. The MOOG variable rate springs would not fit over the threaded portion of the JKS ACOSs much less the spring isolator.
I measured the coil spring spacers and wheel center to fender edge after a 50+ mile drive.

Measurements: adjustable coil spacer / lift height

Front driver: 1.5" / 3.25"
Front passenger: 3" / 3"
Rear driver: 3.5" / 3.75"
Rear passenger: 3.5" / 4.5"

From the first time putting the spacers in I found out that It will take multiple adjustments to even out all four corners. Lowering/lifting one corner will change the others slightly.
It's still odd that the body sits so unevenly. I'll need to loosen and re-tighten the control arm bolts while it's on the ground and see if that helps it settle.
It would be interesting to check the frame measurements from the factory service manual on a level surface.

 

Time for an update. The ZJ had been leaking exhaust from the header gasket, oil from the head covers, coolant from the reservoir and pump, and power steering fluid from the gearbox.

Last month I finally replaced the head cover gaskets and spark plug wires. They've been sitting on the shelf for the last two years. While I was at it I changed out the exhaust header bolts for Stage8 locking bolts. It was quite frustrating to reach into the same spot repeatedly cutting my knuckles on the spark plug heat shields to test fit the clips after each pass with the grinder to shape them. At least I shouldn't have to touch them until the exhaust gasket needs to be replaced, which should be quite a while since it was done last summer.

For the last year or so I had to fill the coolant reservoir every month, then every couple weeks, and after every offroad trip or long highway drive. Searching through the factory service manual helped me figure out that the radiator cap wasn't holding the required 18 psi of pressure. This caused a lower boiling point and allowed the hot coolant to flow into the reservoir to the point that it would overflow when hot and then empty it when cool. After replacing the cap a leak developed from the water pump gasket. The pump was swapped out along with the all the hoses.

The power steering hoses that I replaced earlier this year slowed the fluid leaks but they persisted. I purchased a re-manufactured pump, re-manufactured '98 Durango non-snowplow gearbox, and a junk yard I6 ZJ transmission cooler. While putting everything together I dropped the pump and shattered the plastic pulley (another $20+ accidental drop this year). Using 3 ft of 3/8" fuel hose I plumbed the steering box fluid outlet to the lower inlet of the transmission cooler and the upper to the pump reservoir. I got the idea for the power steering cooler from the Kevins Offroad Blog, see pictures and more details here. I opted to not use the hard lines as they would have required four more connections and the routing posed minimal risk of wear from abrasion. Unlike the blog I was able to install the cooler by only removing the grill and the top bolt on the inverted "v" shaped bracket. This may be due to my bumper configuration that allowed me to insert the cooler from underneath.

It took several quarts of steering fluid to 'flush' the system. The process was filling, turning the wheel, adding fluid, turning some more, emptying the reservoir, and repeating until the fluid was clear. For some reason the ABS light came on towards the end. Hopefully disconnecting the battery will resolve it.

Pulling the pitman arm did not go smoothly. The first puller I rented had stripped threads, I drove 40 minutes round trip to get another only to promptly strip the threads on that one too. The local auto-parts chain store employees didn't mind, they sent both back to the manufacturer under warranty. I ended up taking the old gearbox to a relatives house, where I store my welding equipment, to use my torch. After 10 minutes with a #5 acetylene torch tip, an impact wrench, and a small harbor freight 3-jaw puller it was off.

Tonight I'll be returning the old gearbox for the core charge, and installing the pitman arm along with a new tie-rod end.

 

Sounds like your ZJ has demanded a lot of attention recently! I had the same issue with the coolant reservoir getting low progressively faster, these cooling systems are a little bothersome. I've been looking for a ZJ in your color after seeing this build over a year ago, great work man.

 

Thanks for the feedback. This thing is now 23 years old (built in September '97) and some things were far overdue for maintenance. It seemed the original reservoir was leaking near the bottom mounts which were broken but not leaking as I later discovered. I did replace the coolant reservoir with one from a wrecking yard, which made no difference. The overflow tube needed to be cut and drilled to accommodate the drainage hose that exits the wheel well. I'm thinking I should have left it closed off as there's the occasional drip on the ground probably due to condensation.

Follow-up on steering: The pitman arm and drag-link tie-rod end installed with no issues. After a few trips around the block and doing figure 8's in a parking lot the power steering assist wouldn't work at idle. After allowing it to cool overnight it would perform better backing out the drive way, but halfway around the block it would cut out again. From what I gleaned from the forums it was a bad internal seal or debris in either the pump or gearbox. The ones I installed were both re-manufactured with lifetime warranties. I decided to replace the pump first so only part of the system would need to be drained. Fortunately that worked and I didn't have to remove the gearbox and flush the entire system.

The employee at the parts store pulled up a service bulletin, when I was swapping out the defunct pump, it suggests an inline filter be installed on the return line to the pump. Had I known that when I started I may have put one in. At this point, any debris that was present in the used cooler and re-manufactured parts was probably lodged in the pump on the counter. So, no filter and the steering is great.

During the process of testing the steering, I found the upper track bar bushing is allowing 1/2"+ of lateral movement. Five years ago the stock one was replaced with a KOR unit. While perusing their site for the specifications I found the suggested optional replacement is a set of much stiffer bushings that is currently sold out. When it's back in stock I'll buy a steering box brace as well.

 

During my last multi-night excursion I decided to swap the interior lights to LEDs to brighten things up in the all black interior. Pics to come.

I wasn't able to find a comprehensive list of bulb specs in the owners manual or factory service manual. Also the site I purchased some of my lights from lists multiple styles for each application. Here are my findings:

Under-dash courtesy lights, qty 2: BA15S base
Glove box, qty 1: 194
Front doors, qty 2: 194
Front overhead, qty 2: 212-2
Back seat center overhead, qty 1: 561
Back seat sides overhead, qty 2: 906
Rear cargo, qty 1: 212-2

Some of the listed bulb numbers are interchangeable with others: i.e. 168 & 194 & 906 (same base though 906's are larger). I liked the idea of having as few styles of bulbs possible and I purchased two adapters and a 44mm festoon socket to make it possible.
Two for under the dash:


One to be soldered in over the seats:


Along with these components I needed
Qty 7: 194 bulbs 135 lumens, warm 2500K color
Qty 4: 570 lumens, warm 3000K color

I'll post some interior comparison pictures soon as well as a post about the 'new' under-hood light.

 

I got the bulbs put in, unfortunately some of the pictures didn't get saved, more will come. The biggest difference was made with the four 570 lumen replacements in the overhead front, middle center, and cargo lamps. The LED 194 bulbs made little difference in the doors, glove box, and rear seat map lights. However the under-dash foot-well area is much brighter and I can actually read the fuse box cover by it now. As the pictures illustrate, taking the yellow/orange cover off helps somewhat. The covers don't fit over my bulb & base adapter combination. Leaving them off may be asking for them to get broken, I'm not concerned as they are positioned up out of the way.


44 mm festoon stock vs 570 lumen

LED vs exposed stock bulb vs covered stock bulb.

 

Cargo area stock vs 570 lumen.

 

Last year, my wife and I purchased a 2012 JKUR that was meant to replace Skyhunter, but when making preparations to sell we got nostalgic and both changed our minds. Over the last 13 months the ZJ has been sitting idle except for a day every couple months I hook up the battery for a spirited drive to and from work. The idea of selling it and putting money into the JK has been tempting. I'm still on the fence about parting ways with it, but have decided to repair, repaint, and clean it up as if I was selling it.

Projects for this Summer/Fall:
Reinstall ABS module (I opened it and repaired a solder joint last week.)
Replace front door hinges
Remove trim attachment studs from doors and paint
Replace track-bar bushing
Replace horn
Touch-up paint

 

I agree great job on the bumpers