Regular Cherokee mkII
#121
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Yes it is.
I think if it doesn't act up for another week or so I will proceed with doing the trans cooler and flush.
I also might be getting a pair of used factory fogs to replace these things that don't work. I guess I'll find out how worthless they are.
Kinda worried since I seem to be missing one of the two relays that the factory fogs seem to come with, if they did indeed come with two relays.
I really do dig the color. I was iffy at first but I was wanting a Jeep too much to care. It seems really hit or miss with people.
I think if it doesn't act up for another week or so I will proceed with doing the trans cooler and flush.
I also might be getting a pair of used factory fogs to replace these things that don't work. I guess I'll find out how worthless they are.
Kinda worried since I seem to be missing one of the two relays that the factory fogs seem to come with, if they did indeed come with two relays.
I really do dig the color. I was iffy at first but I was wanting a Jeep too much to care. It seems really hit or miss with people.
#122
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Today i should be picking up a front skid and a set of factory fog lights. Ill post pics when i get them home!
now to find some suitable bolts to attach the skid... should i go grade 8, or stainless?
When i get a chance im going to take a breaker bar and a torch to the junkyard and see if i can get t hat Zj fuel skid.
now to find some suitable bolts to attach the skid... should i go grade 8, or stainless?
When i get a chance im going to take a breaker bar and a torch to the junkyard and see if i can get t hat Zj fuel skid.
#123
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Today i should be picking up a front skid and a set of factory fog lights. Ill post pics when i get them home!
now to find some suitable bolts to attach the skid... should i go grade 8, or stainless?
When i get a chance im going to take a breaker bar and a torch to the junkyard and see if i can get t hat Zj fuel skid.
now to find some suitable bolts to attach the skid... should i go grade 8, or stainless?
When i get a chance im going to take a breaker bar and a torch to the junkyard and see if i can get t hat Zj fuel skid.
#124
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Lighting Update
Well, i finally got a chance to get the comparison pics done. Again, photographs dont really convey the difference in light.
First, the low beams, then the high.
I really should have done this sooner. When you fill up your tank the first time after you buy your Cherokee, you should spend the 20-40 bucks next to get a wiring harness. Its a great difference.
After dinner ill post pics of the skid and fogs. Skid seems nice. Fogs... we will see.
First, the low beams, then the high.
I really should have done this sooner. When you fill up your tank the first time after you buy your Cherokee, you should spend the 20-40 bucks next to get a wiring harness. Its a great difference.
After dinner ill post pics of the skid and fogs. Skid seems nice. Fogs... we will see.
#125
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Alrighty
The fogs, i dont have a lot of faith in, but i picked them up for 15 bucks. One looks pretty rusty on the inside, so im thinking it leaked, and thus probably blown. Even if they arent blown, the glass is pretty cloudy.
As for the skid, its heavier-duty than i figured it would be. a bit of rusty on the backside but nothing my wire wheel wont take off. Im thinking i'll go gloss black, so it will clean off easier? or use flat instead?
I actually took the better looking fog light and connected it to the driver side. Didnt come on. I'll need to use my multimeter and test the connector to see if it gets power- i checked the fuse and relay in the PDC and both seemed normal. the switch illuminates the fog light symbol when the lights are on, but the indicator light that lights up when the switch is on does not light up.
Or if one of the fogs are burned out, the whole circuit doesn't work? that would seem odd.
The fogs, i dont have a lot of faith in, but i picked them up for 15 bucks. One looks pretty rusty on the inside, so im thinking it leaked, and thus probably blown. Even if they arent blown, the glass is pretty cloudy.
As for the skid, its heavier-duty than i figured it would be. a bit of rusty on the backside but nothing my wire wheel wont take off. Im thinking i'll go gloss black, so it will clean off easier? or use flat instead?
I actually took the better looking fog light and connected it to the driver side. Didnt come on. I'll need to use my multimeter and test the connector to see if it gets power- i checked the fuse and relay in the PDC and both seemed normal. the switch illuminates the fog light symbol when the lights are on, but the indicator light that lights up when the switch is on does not light up.
Or if one of the fogs are burned out, the whole circuit doesn't work? that would seem odd.
#126
No, I don't lick fish.
Well, i finally got a chance to get the comparison pics done. Again, photographs dont really convey the difference in light.
First, the low beams, then the high.
I really should have done this sooner. When you fill up your tank the first time after you buy your Cherokee, you should spend the 20-40 bucks next to get a wiring harness. Its a great difference.
After dinner ill post pics of the skid and fogs. Skid seems nice. Fogs... we will see.
First, the low beams, then the high.
I really should have done this sooner. When you fill up your tank the first time after you buy your Cherokee, you should spend the 20-40 bucks next to get a wiring harness. Its a great difference.
After dinner ill post pics of the skid and fogs. Skid seems nice. Fogs... we will see.
That's a good lookin' skid.
#127
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Yeah i'm sure that bit of rust on the back of the skid will come off fairly easily.
As for the fogs, i was about to take my new multimeter out to check for power at the plugs, but it Just started raining. Im still wondering if the switch is burned out, or maybe ust the bulbs are. I mean, the switch backlight illuminates when the headlights are on, id imagine if the switch burned up then nothing about it would work. but i've been wrong before.
When i have the extra scratch im going to try and nab that ZJ fuel skid from theboneyard. hard when im working 7 days a week. scary too, crawling around under stuff in a place like that.
EDIT
so actually i Just thought to check the bulbs for continuity, since they are on my porch and out of the rain.
now ive never used a multimeter before so cringe away if you must, but i set it to 200 ohms and after 'zeroing' the thing at a baseline of .5 (this was what it read when the leads where put together end to end), it seemed to read 2.5 on the cleaner looking bulb, and i wasnt able to get any change whatsoever on the rusty looking one.
So this could logically mean that the cleaner bulb does have continuity and therefore likely isnt burned out, wheras the rusty one shows no continuity and therefore likely is? and if all this is true, then i likely have an issue somewhere else (the switch)?
As for the fogs, i was about to take my new multimeter out to check for power at the plugs, but it Just started raining. Im still wondering if the switch is burned out, or maybe ust the bulbs are. I mean, the switch backlight illuminates when the headlights are on, id imagine if the switch burned up then nothing about it would work. but i've been wrong before.
When i have the extra scratch im going to try and nab that ZJ fuel skid from theboneyard. hard when im working 7 days a week. scary too, crawling around under stuff in a place like that.
EDIT
so actually i Just thought to check the bulbs for continuity, since they are on my porch and out of the rain.
now ive never used a multimeter before so cringe away if you must, but i set it to 200 ohms and after 'zeroing' the thing at a baseline of .5 (this was what it read when the leads where put together end to end), it seemed to read 2.5 on the cleaner looking bulb, and i wasnt able to get any change whatsoever on the rusty looking one.
So this could logically mean that the cleaner bulb does have continuity and therefore likely isnt burned out, wheras the rusty one shows no continuity and therefore likely is? and if all this is true, then i likely have an issue somewhere else (the switch)?
Last edited by RegularGuy; 07-27-2017 at 06:00 PM.
#128
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Not much of an update, i have a lot going on at the moment, but i ust wanted to note that the transmission STILL has been acting normally. I think i'm going to proceed with the cooler install when i am able.
Then i got to thinking too that i might as well wait to install the front skid until i can install toiw hooks as well, since i will probably need to take the bumper off for the skid to go on.
Then i got to thinking too that i might as well wait to install the front skid until i can install toiw hooks as well, since i will probably need to take the bumper off for the skid to go on.
#129
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
So, I think i found out why my fogs dont work.
I pulled the center bezel, then pulled the faceplate around the switches. Looks like the light blue wire isnt connected at all to the switch, the wire seems to have broke off where it goes into the plug. the orange wire is very nearly broke as well.
I pulled the switch, took it apart and it had no sign of melting. I cleaned the switch interior with alcohol and put it back together, tested for continuity. the two center pins did have continuity when it was on and had none when switched off.
It seems the orange wire is for the illumination of the switch itself, and the light blue is the output to the relay. therefore, since the blue wire wasn't connected it shouldn't activate the relay to activate the lamps.
Now i ust need to figure out how to re-insert the wire into the connector.
I pulled the center bezel, then pulled the faceplate around the switches. Looks like the light blue wire isnt connected at all to the switch, the wire seems to have broke off where it goes into the plug. the orange wire is very nearly broke as well.
I pulled the switch, took it apart and it had no sign of melting. I cleaned the switch interior with alcohol and put it back together, tested for continuity. the two center pins did have continuity when it was on and had none when switched off.
It seems the orange wire is for the illumination of the switch itself, and the light blue is the output to the relay. therefore, since the blue wire wasn't connected it shouldn't activate the relay to activate the lamps.
Now i ust need to figure out how to re-insert the wire into the connector.
#130
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
CONFIRMED
This is my problem. I had my brother watch the "new" fog lamp that i thought worked after i hooked it up, then turned the switch on and held the blue wire to the contact point. the lamp came on.
so now i need to figure out a way to fix this. do i just press the connector out backwards? pull it out somehow with forceps or needlenose pliers? or solder it on there?
This is my problem. I had my brother watch the "new" fog lamp that i thought worked after i hooked it up, then turned the switch on and held the blue wire to the contact point. the lamp came on.
so now i need to figure out a way to fix this. do i just press the connector out backwards? pull it out somehow with forceps or needlenose pliers? or solder it on there?
#131
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Nice score!
So after finially getting to go back to the boneyard Saturday, i snagged the hard line from the radiator to the cooler from the donor ZJ. Ive yet to check for fitment but im pretty sure she will go right on.
I also tried to get the rear skid from a different ZJ off, but time was running short and even though the bolts where coming off alright, i didnt want to get the guy mad at me.
So i went back in today and finished the task! A ratchet made for much faster work than only a 24" breaker bar. I also snagged another Canyon wheel, this one is gold in color but it will do nicely for a spare.
These rubber things on the inside of the skid, are they something i should rip the remains out? will they even fit with a swap into an XJ?
Also, my front skid is primed. i forgot that rattle cans dont like to go so well when its really humid so i had a fun time sanding it all down.
So after finially getting to go back to the boneyard Saturday, i snagged the hard line from the radiator to the cooler from the donor ZJ. Ive yet to check for fitment but im pretty sure she will go right on.
I also tried to get the rear skid from a different ZJ off, but time was running short and even though the bolts where coming off alright, i didnt want to get the guy mad at me.
So i went back in today and finished the task! A ratchet made for much faster work than only a 24" breaker bar. I also snagged another Canyon wheel, this one is gold in color but it will do nicely for a spare.
These rubber things on the inside of the skid, are they something i should rip the remains out? will they even fit with a swap into an XJ?
Also, my front skid is primed. i forgot that rattle cans dont like to go so well when its really humid so i had a fun time sanding it all down.
#132
No, I don't lick fish.
Nice. I really need to start looking for a ZJ skid for mine. Looks like that would fit just fine with a little modification to the mounting holes. Definitely better than denting the gas tank all the time.
#133
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
So, another pickup- a solid fan shroud, and a connector for the fog lights.
So, whats the best way to connect the wires, since im sure twisting them together and wrapping in electrical tape isnt the proper way.
Shrink tubing? or get some press connector unction things?
I was hoping to get a fog light at the boneyard but they where gone. I dont really care about them so much until i get the H4 conversion housings, but just to see what kind of light the stock bulbs throw it might be worth it to get one cheeaaaap.
now i have all these parts but i need time to install them
I did get half the front skid painted though.
So, whats the best way to connect the wires, since im sure twisting them together and wrapping in electrical tape isnt the proper way.
Shrink tubing? or get some press connector unction things?
I was hoping to get a fog light at the boneyard but they where gone. I dont really care about them so much until i get the H4 conversion housings, but just to see what kind of light the stock bulbs throw it might be worth it to get one cheeaaaap.
now i have all these parts but i need time to install them
I did get half the front skid painted though.
#135
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Well, as a testament to how well the harness improves the light output, I was pulled over last night my a highway patrolman because "I didn't dim my headlights". Then he did a U-turn and pulled me over because i "went left of center" (neither of which where true). I told him i didnt notice going LOC and told him i had indeed dimmed my lights.
After trying his hardest to get me for DUI he let me go with a warning about going left of center. "If you really did dim your lights then i suggest you aim them differently"
Ironic that this all happened to me after almost being run off the road by some big new SUV who refused to dim their HIDs whatsoever. Ah well.
After trying his hardest to get me for DUI he let me go with a warning about going left of center. "If you really did dim your lights then i suggest you aim them differently"
Ironic that this all happened to me after almost being run off the road by some big new SUV who refused to dim their HIDs whatsoever. Ah well.