Project Scarlett: taking my time and doing it right the first time
#1381
No, I don't lick fish.
#1382
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The truck motors have iron block with aluminum heads, i wasnt lucky enought to find an l33
I dont remember the exact difference but the 5.3 and trans is around 100lbs lighter i belive
I dont remember the exact difference but the 5.3 and trans is around 100lbs lighter i belive
#1383
No, I don't lick fish.
Ah ok... I was under the misconception that all the LS series were AL. Hey, still, 100 lbs lighter is good anyway!
#1385
No, I don't lick fish.
#1386
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
finally got the steering straighten out today, the jks draglink for the wj swap is about 1/2" too long (probably less but i have the durango steering box which is bigger and spaced out from the frame farther than the stock box)
luckily the tube is threaded about 3/4" deeper on each side than it needs to be so i pulled it off and cut each side about down about 1/4"-3/8" and now i have the proper turning radius to each side and the steering wheel is finally straight!!
also while it was apart a swapped out the passenger side drag link TRE with a WJ RHD TRE (the bend in the TRE goes the opisite direction so that wheen flipped it will clear the raised sway link mounts)
- part# Crown Automotive 52088512 (unfortunatly i could not find a moog version, i will be buying a second one in the near future so i have a spare on hand since this TRE isnt a common part at any parts store.)
speaking of raised sway links i also got the old sway links completely removed (not hacked just enough for clearance like i did initially) and got the new JKS raised sway bar link mounts al welded up today and the sway bar reinstalled. the jeep drive so uch better with a sway bar, i highly recommend driving on the street with out one, especially with long arms
this is probably the smoothest my jeep has drivien since i swapped this axle in( aside from unbalanced tires and the worlds worst pinion angle, i havent fixed that cause the ls swap will locate the t-case farther forward and affect what the pinion angle needs to be)
tonight i plan on getting the transmission bolted up tonight as well as getting started on the 5.3 harness
luckily the tube is threaded about 3/4" deeper on each side than it needs to be so i pulled it off and cut each side about down about 1/4"-3/8" and now i have the proper turning radius to each side and the steering wheel is finally straight!!
also while it was apart a swapped out the passenger side drag link TRE with a WJ RHD TRE (the bend in the TRE goes the opisite direction so that wheen flipped it will clear the raised sway link mounts)
- part# Crown Automotive 52088512 (unfortunatly i could not find a moog version, i will be buying a second one in the near future so i have a spare on hand since this TRE isnt a common part at any parts store.)
speaking of raised sway links i also got the old sway links completely removed (not hacked just enough for clearance like i did initially) and got the new JKS raised sway bar link mounts al welded up today and the sway bar reinstalled. the jeep drive so uch better with a sway bar, i highly recommend driving on the street with out one, especially with long arms
this is probably the smoothest my jeep has drivien since i swapped this axle in( aside from unbalanced tires and the worlds worst pinion angle, i havent fixed that cause the ls swap will locate the t-case farther forward and affect what the pinion angle needs to be)
tonight i plan on getting the transmission bolted up tonight as well as getting started on the 5.3 harness
#1387
No, I don't lick fish.
finally got the steering straighten out today, the jks draglink for the wj swap is about 1/2" too long (probably less but i have the durango steering box which is bigger and spaced out from the frame farther than the stock box)
luckily the tube is threaded about 3/4" deeper on each side than it needs to be so i pulled it off and cut each side about down about 1/4"-3/8" and now i have the proper turning radius to each side and the steering wheel is finally straight!!
also while it was apart a swapped out the passenger side drag link TRE with a WJ RHD TRE (the bend in the TRE goes the opisite direction so that wheen flipped it will clear the raised sway link mounts)
- part# Crown Automotive 52088512 (unfortunatly i could not find a moog version, i will be buying a second one in the near future so i have a spare on hand since this TRE isnt a common part at any parts store.)
Attachment 287591
speaking of raised sway links i also got the old sway links completely removed (not hacked just enough for clearance like i did initially) and got the new JKS raised sway bar link mounts al welded up today and the sway bar reinstalled. the jeep drive so uch better with a sway bar, i highly recommend driving on the street with out one, especially with long arms
this is probably the smoothest my jeep has drivien since i swapped this axle in( aside from unbalanced tires and the worlds worst pinion angle, i havent fixed that cause the ls swap will locate the t-case farther forward and affect what the pinion angle needs to be)
tonight i plan on getting the transmission bolted up tonight as well as getting started on the 5.3 harness
luckily the tube is threaded about 3/4" deeper on each side than it needs to be so i pulled it off and cut each side about down about 1/4"-3/8" and now i have the proper turning radius to each side and the steering wheel is finally straight!!
also while it was apart a swapped out the passenger side drag link TRE with a WJ RHD TRE (the bend in the TRE goes the opisite direction so that wheen flipped it will clear the raised sway link mounts)
- part# Crown Automotive 52088512 (unfortunatly i could not find a moog version, i will be buying a second one in the near future so i have a spare on hand since this TRE isnt a common part at any parts store.)
Attachment 287591
speaking of raised sway links i also got the old sway links completely removed (not hacked just enough for clearance like i did initially) and got the new JKS raised sway bar link mounts al welded up today and the sway bar reinstalled. the jeep drive so uch better with a sway bar, i highly recommend driving on the street with out one, especially with long arms
this is probably the smoothest my jeep has drivien since i swapped this axle in( aside from unbalanced tires and the worlds worst pinion angle, i havent fixed that cause the ls swap will locate the t-case farther forward and affect what the pinion angle needs to be)
tonight i plan on getting the transmission bolted up tonight as well as getting started on the 5.3 harness
I can't personally vouch for that, just what I've been hearing (from several Moog part users).
#1388
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
wow i havent updated this enough
the trans it bolted up, the 231 adapter its bolted up and rtv'ed, the gm harnes is roughly 65% done, the fuse block is built, all wires labled, 40% of re-routing all wires to pretty up the harness id done. ive ordered all the exhaust parts and gotten the pcm flashed by lt1swap.com
im on a 4 day weekend so im really hoping to have some stuff done by sunday
the trans it bolted up, the 231 adapter its bolted up and rtv'ed, the gm harnes is roughly 65% done, the fuse block is built, all wires labled, 40% of re-routing all wires to pretty up the harness id done. ive ordered all the exhaust parts and gotten the pcm flashed by lt1swap.com
im on a 4 day weekend so im really hoping to have some stuff done by sunday
#1389
No, I don't lick fish.
I really admire your determination with this. Just the harness alone is enough to make me wanna go take a nap.
#1390
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
i made the mistake of shortening the main trunk of it first, which turned out to be a big waste of time since i had to shorten/lengthen all the sensor wires to rout them properly any ways..
oh well theres always next time...when someone else will do the harness for me haha
#1393
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
also been thinking a lot on what i want to do with the axles
ideally id like to throw a sleeved/trussed, gusseted, set of jk 44s under it with some factory jk wheels/4.10 gears/lockers and 35s but people want a gagillion dollars for them
or
a narowwed to waggy length HP ford d44 with a tnt truss 4.10s some sort of selectable locker/ rear 8.8 with iro truss, c-clip eliminator kit with dual drilled shafts, and a detroit
im mostly worried about the d30 handling the 5.3 power
ideally id like to throw a sleeved/trussed, gusseted, set of jk 44s under it with some factory jk wheels/4.10 gears/lockers and 35s but people want a gagillion dollars for them
or
a narowwed to waggy length HP ford d44 with a tnt truss 4.10s some sort of selectable locker/ rear 8.8 with iro truss, c-clip eliminator kit with dual drilled shafts, and a detroit
im mostly worried about the d30 handling the 5.3 power
#1394
No, I don't lick fish.
yea its a lot of soldering...i mean a lot.
i made the mistake of shortening the main trunk of it first, which turned out to be a big waste of time since i had to shorten/lengthen all the sensor wires to rout them properly any ways..
oh well theres always next time...when someone else will do the harness for me haha
i made the mistake of shortening the main trunk of it first, which turned out to be a big waste of time since i had to shorten/lengthen all the sensor wires to rout them properly any ways..
oh well theres always next time...when someone else will do the harness for me haha
also been thinking a lot on what i want to do with the axles
ideally id like to throw a sleeved/trussed, gusseted, set of jk 44s under it with some factory jk wheels/4.10 gears/lockers and 35s but people want a gagillion dollars for them
or
a narowwed to waggy length HP ford d44 with a tnt truss 4.10s some sort of selectable locker/ rear 8.8 with iro truss, c-clip eliminator kit with dual drilled shafts, and a detroit
im mostly worried about the d30 handling the 5.3 power
ideally id like to throw a sleeved/trussed, gusseted, set of jk 44s under it with some factory jk wheels/4.10 gears/lockers and 35s but people want a gagillion dollars for them
or
a narowwed to waggy length HP ford d44 with a tnt truss 4.10s some sort of selectable locker/ rear 8.8 with iro truss, c-clip eliminator kit with dual drilled shafts, and a detroit
im mostly worried about the d30 handling the 5.3 power
#1395
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Yeah, I think if I ever did a swap of this magnitude, I'd contact painless performance and see if they could do a custom harness for me. I can do wiring, and I'm pretty decent at it, it's just really time consuming.
doing it my self was the cheeper option but way more time consuming. if i were gonna do it again from the beggining i would just leave the truck intake and accesories as is, and just wire the gm harness for stand alone and not worry about keeping it purdy, but whats done is done
So, you're wanting to stick with the narrow track of the XJ, huh?
doing it my self was the cheeper option but way more time consuming. if i were gonna do it again from the beggining i would just leave the truck intake and accesories as is, and just wire the gm harness for stand alone and not worry about keeping it purdy, but whats done is done
So, you're wanting to stick with the narrow track of the XJ, huh?