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Introducing project "what the heck was the p.o. thinking!" Picked up this neglected ole girl for 2k. 1990 xj Limited. At one point this thing was top of the line...power everything. And Then it got tore up. Legend has it: crazy ex girlfriends have slashed seats, fenders were hacked, somehow it ran with the fpr backwards, and the hood has "J heart P" somewhere on it. 180k miles. Interior gutted. Pretty much new everything under the hood. 2"lift and 31's. I will start a new build thread on redirecting this poor soul.
Makes me feel better about my 90 XJ. You've got your work cut out for you. Why are there round holes in the hood?! Did it have exhaust stacks at one point? Please say yes.
Makes me feel better about my 90 XJ. You've got your work cut out for you. Why are there round holes in the hood?! Did it have exhaust stacks at one point? Please say yes.
Looking good!
I'm finally driving mine with the 3-link- ride quality is amazing!
Haven't flexed it yet, but I'm sure those control arm mounts will interfere with out cutting them out
I'm struggling with the axle alignment. The lengths are at their shortest, but the pinion angle is way off, and the driveline is nearly touching the upper link.
I'm struggling with the axle alignment. The lengths are at their shortest, but the pinion angle is way off, and the driveline is nearly touching the upper link.
Ok while your in that position,
this is what helped me get the correct pinion angle without things flying out the way or getting hurt
Install steering,
install track bar (ball park it doesn't have to be perfect until the end)
put the brakes back on and wheels,
chock the passenger side wheel
Leave jackstands under frame
Unbolt upper control arm
keep the jack right under the track bar bracket and try to find your correct pinion angle (jack up and down till your in the ball park doesn't have to be perfect)
if you have an extra hand have them push the driver side tire forward as you adjust your driver side lower arm to get the length you need to adjust Accordingly to get the correct pinion angle...
Then adjust your upper control arm (with 5.5" coils I barely had much adjustment, you may have to remove the lock nut to get the right length...
Once the driver side is bolted in loosely
Move chocks to driver side
Remove jack from under the track bar bracket
Then have your extra hand push the tire forward to adjust the lower arm accordingly
Last edited by 88whitecomanche; 08-30-2017 at 05:27 PM.
Reason: Removed word bracket from track bar bracket
Ok while your in that position,
this is what helped me get the correct pinion angle without things flying out the way or getting hurt
Install steering,
install track bar (ball park it doesn't have to be perfect until the end)
put the brakes back on and wheels,
chock the passenger side wheel
Leave jackstands under frame
Unbolt upper control arm
keep the jack right under the track bar bracket and try to find your correct pinion angle (jack up and down till your in the ball park doesn't have to be perfect)
if you have an extra hand have them push the driver side tire forward as you adjust your driver side lower arm to get the length you need to adjust Accordingly to get the correct pinion angle...
Then adjust your upper control arm (with 5.5" coils I barely had much adjustment, you may have to remove the lock nut to get the right length...
Once the driver side is bolted in loosely
Move chocks to driver side
Remove jack from under the track bar bracket
Then have your extra hand push the tire forward to adjust the lower arm accordingly
Nicely done. Awesome, easy to follow, step by step instructions.
Ok while your in that position,
this is what helped me get the correct pinion angle without things flying out the way or getting hurt
Install steering,
install track bar (ball park it doesn't have to be perfect until the end)
put the brakes back on and wheels,
chock the passenger side wheel
Leave jackstands under frame
Unbolt upper control arm
keep the jack right under the track bar bracket and try to find your correct pinion angle (jack up and down till your in the ball park doesn't have to be perfect)
if you have an extra hand have them push the driver side tire forward as you adjust your driver side lower arm to get the length you need to adjust Accordingly to get the correct pinion angle...
Then adjust your upper control arm (with 5.5" coils I barely had much adjustment, you may have to remove the lock nut to get the right length...
Once the driver side is bolted in loosely
Move chocks to driver sidem9
Remove jack from under the track bar bracket
Then have your extra hand push the tire forward to adjust the lower arm accordingly
Thank you! I did something similar. I left the upper link where it was(fully collapsed) added an inch of length to the lowers, and bolted everything in. It was close. So I unbolted the lowers and jacked up the pinion until it was as close as I could get it to match the driveline, and keep the coils centered. Ended up at about 1.5 degrees measured on the top of the housing, with the driveline being about .9 degrees. That got me close enough to take it to a professional shop. I'm sitting on rustys 6.5" coils
Nicely done. Awesome, easy to follow, step by step instructions.
THanks, I had to do a couple of corrections to make sure I went through all the steps right....
But this is all learning experience from a forum member here (freegdr)
When he helped me with mine I remembered the steps we took to get my pinion angle back to spec...
Originally Posted by WyoCherokee
Thank you! I did something similar. I left the upper link where it was(fully collapsed) added an inch of length to the lowers, and bolted everything in. It was close. So I unbolted the lowers and jacked up the pinion until it was as close as I could get it to match the driveline, and keep the coils centered. Ended up at about 1.5 degrees measured on the top of the housing, with the driveline being about .9 degrees. That got me close enough to take it to a professional shop. I'm sitting on rustys 6.5" coils
Well i went to open the drivers door yesterday, and the button just pushed in without triggering the release arm and the button jsut stayed in. Im thinking the return spring popped off somehow. So i get to pull off the panel from inside the cab and try to pop the door open from the inside. im hoping i can get up inside the door and trip it. otherwise it looks like im losing a door.
Going to cut the brackets off? Wouldn't recommend leaving them
cutting the door brackets off wont do me any good, as its still stuck to the striker. I spent 4 hours last night fiddling up inside the door trying to pop it to no avail. I did find this thread: http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f2...en-help-12066/ and will fumble around tonight and try to get that little latch by his red pen to open the door. this is really irritating, since i just finished the 3-link install and want to drive it haha. Also found this thread on pirate 4x4(as much as i hate that site) : http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...oor-stuck.html
Last edited by WyoCherokee; 10-10-2017 at 08:50 AM.
07-23-2017, 03:08 PM
