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Project Carol, the neglected 2000 Sport
Hey all,
So i recently bought my first Jeep a 2000 Cherokee Sport 4x4 Auto 4.0. 162k Miles. 5 31" General Grabber AT2's on ZJ wheels I got her for really cheap and after about a week I really started looking it over. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...75c6c0c479.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...2f93e6f0b0.jpg I knew going in there were the typical rust issues on the rockers and possibly the frame and floors and i was right https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...70eebb29cd.jpg Pass floor near trans hump https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...54cd93ff98.jpg drivers frame https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...d0143ccd19.jpg drivers floor plug https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...bc022a2184.jpg drivers side floor https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...d56af598c2.jpg rear frame small crack and not sure what that is...lol The rockers are well mostly missing on the pass side, the drivers side isn't as bad but i am gonna try and do it right. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...600fd134c1.jpg PO tried the spray foam trick https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...8bf6f9c23b.jpg door needs love or just new rear doors Over all its mostly there, the fenders were cut to make room for the 31's he put on and he did a decent job but i have a lot of work. This isn't my daily driver but i hope it will be some day. She needs basically every bushing ever except sway bar and end links. She needs ball joints, tie rods, possibly ujoints all fluids done and possibly a heater core, heat takes forever to get warmish... so im gonna try a back flush first. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...8b9ae06622.jpg What is /was this thing? https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...9af8c81e30.jpg can see the transfer case, and the rusty looking area where the shaft goes in. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...daebde096c.jpg Gunked up bad...lol https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...4c78d36ef4.jpg PO added one new steel brake line drivers side rear. Rear shocks are probably toast but it seems to ride alright. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...9a9c8b2502.jpg Leak, prolly RMS https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...660d072646.jpg Chrysler 8.25? Worried the bolts might be deteriorated. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...526dc7857d.jpg Overall front end https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...9293ab4bfc.jpg Probably needs leaf springs https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...01786dc4fb.jpg Gonna replace it all. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...e10c406dae.jpg First thing is i want it to be safe, he drove it every day to work and back and it never failed but I wanna make it better. Other things to do: Replace the rear lift gate latch as mine wont stay latched after being opened. Battery cable upgrade Brakes bled and possible replace Alignment RUST REPAIR! Better radio and speakers. Possbily a head if mine ever cracks Things i have done: FIxed the hatch harness for now until i can replace it or just take the time to fully rebuild it. Fixed the rear wiper but it is slow as hell. Cleaned about 20lbs of mud from places mud shouldn't be lol I know shes not as good of a starting platform as usual but for once i have a car to drive and one to tinker with. I want it to be a DD and have some decent off road capabilities possibly overland style while staying legal in MASS. at least till we move. I am all for suggestions / options! Thanks for looking! |
the rust repair needs to move to the top of your list it looks pretty bad and you may want to find a more solid project(I am from Ohio I feel your rusty pain!!) maybe look for a clean body with a blown motor /trans and use this one for parts
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Originally Posted by tinytrax78
(Post 3523462)
the rust repair needs to move to the top of your list it looks pretty bad and you may want to find a more solid project(I am from Ohio I feel your rusty pain!!) maybe look for a clean body with a blown motor /trans and use this one for parts
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First off thank you guys for the honesty
I know the rust is bad but it might not be that bad and worse case I can part it out and recoup my.initial investment. I will pull the carpet to assess the destruction and go from there. I'm sure you guys are right but I wanna stay hopeful lol ryst us top prioruty, a lot of it is that scaly rust and having dealt with it all my life living in New England I'm hoping I can save at least one lol |
NP FYI I just learned that in order to pass MA inspection you need to have the plastic bumper ends on... Odd but apparently they need it to take pics for the state. IDK if you're close to me but I have mine lying around if you need to borrow them for the inspection
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Originally Posted by ixanay_on-the_exjay
(Post 3523479)
NP FYI I just learned that in order to pass MA inspection you need to have the plastic bumper ends on... Odd but apparently they need it to take pics for the state. IDK if you're close to me but I have mine lying around if you need to borrow them for the inspection
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Funny that I just bought the almost exact same XJ! Same color, same model, about the same mileage, and the same condition, although mine is not QUITE as bad rustwise. The first thing I did was have the frame welded wherever it needed to be to make it safe. My mechanic spent 13 hours on it and it looks solid! He wound up charging me $1050 just for the welding and I know he padded the bill so it wouldn't bite so much.
My work is a little ahead of you because the PO has already replaced the steering linkage ends, ball joints, and wheel bearing. I'd send you a picture, but I don't want to clog up your build thread. I now have a completely new braking system except for the brake booster, master cylinder, and rear drums. Even the rubber hoses and brake pipes are new. |
Originally Posted by dave1123
(Post 3523542)
Funny that I just bought the almost exact same XJ! Same color, same model, about the same mileage, and the same condition, although mine is not QUITE as bad rustwise. The first thing I did was have the frame welded wherever it needed to be to make it safe. My mechanic spent 13 hours on it and it looks solid! He wound up charging me $1050 just for the welding and I know he padded the bill so it wouldn't bite so much.
My work is a little ahead of you because the PO has already replaced the steering linkage ends, ball joints, and wheel bearing. I'd send you a picture, but I don't want to clog up your build thread. This list is long on this one but i am excited. I don't mind pics especially if its helps me reference things. I don't know what half this stuff is due to rust...lol Post away :) Onto tools i need (putting it here for a reference) RUST REPAIR: Die Grinder Welder Compressor (borrowing Dad's till i can get a good one) Air chisel Air ratchet Air grinder /sander (the small one) flappy sanding wheels / discs primer seam sealer Bed liner (i am considering doing the whole floor in this after i seal it and such and leaving the carpet out) spare metal just in case rivet gun and rivets fibergalss bondo just in case If I'm missing anything let me know |
The rust is "That bad"
Your frame rail are gone in areas, even the rear diff cover/bolts are questionable. You could work at McDomalds for min wage and buy a rust free roller, and have about 1/1000 the time it would take to repair that uni body. |
Ooof... Looking at pictures this is barely even a parts jeep. Between all the front end work your going to need and the heavily rusted frame its going to be a very costly repair bill.
That one rocker looks like someone stuff a blanket in it. |
So I am gonan go ahead with this as it is , while looking for a possible roller one, my area is slim and I am not made of cash. What i do want to do is learn to weld so i figure this is a good way to start and besides i have seen much worse frames on here get fixed. Peep's jeep comes to mind.
With that said and i do appreciate the honesty, i crawled under and went a pokin and tapping and got this as a result: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...fdc14c453c.jpg Gotta clear it out and see how far it goes https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...9e23a900d1.jpg Patch 6 inches out from either end, to good metal should be sufficient As far as the front end is concerned I will be doing the work my self as i do know mechanics, besides i could always transfer everything over if i do find a less rusty option. |
Please do not drive it ! That isn’t safe to drive . Also I would part it out and scrap that body it isn’t worth fixing or pull the drivetrain and find one that needs an engine or trans etc . |
Originally Posted by 2KMAXJ
(Post 3523691)
So I am gonan go ahead with this as it is , while looking for a possible roller one, my area is slim and I am not made of cash. What i do want to do is learn to weld so i figure this is a good way to start and besides i have seen much worse frames on here get fixed. Peep's jeep comes to mind.
With that said and i do appreciate the honesty, i crawled under and went a pokin and tapping and got this as a result: We are not trying to deter you in any way, but that vehicle is not safe in so many ways that it scares me to think someone wants to drive it. |
Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey17
(Post 3523699)
Please do not drive it ! That isn’t safe to drive . Also I would part it out and scrap that body it isn’t worth fixing or pull the drivetrain and find one that needs an engine or trans etc .
Originally Posted by firebane
(Post 3523706)
This will be a hard and expensive lesson. You say you don't have much cash... I don't think you realize the costs ahead for this in any way.
We are not trying to deter you in any way, but that vehicle is not safe in so many ways that it scares me to think someone wants to drive it. |
Sorry but that one should be for parts! You start cutting out the rust to repair you wont have anything left. mother nature and the rust belt got the better of that one!
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