project big black cherokee
#32
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Location: Hendersonville, TN.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Well depending on what axle you want basically determines what truck you get it from
Like mine - ford hp 60 with manual hubs
From a early 90s 7.3L diesel truck
14 bolt - suburban / 2500 /3500 dual or srw ( width is different so watch out) some Chevy vans ( again different so watch out)
Mine I wanted full float so it's from a suburban but semi floats are common but not as good in my unexpert opinion
Just pick what axle combo works best for you and choose accordingly
Be sure to keep rebuild cost and lockers in mind as Dana 60 lockers are more than the 14 bolt
Finding them is the easy part
Like mine - ford hp 60 with manual hubs
From a early 90s 7.3L diesel truck
14 bolt - suburban / 2500 /3500 dual or srw ( width is different so watch out) some Chevy vans ( again different so watch out)
Mine I wanted full float so it's from a suburban but semi floats are common but not as good in my unexpert opinion
Just pick what axle combo works best for you and choose accordingly
Be sure to keep rebuild cost and lockers in mind as Dana 60 lockers are more than the 14 bolt
Finding them is the easy part
#34
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by wiggles
My yards around here are pretty bare, what are you getting them out of?
I just get them
Out of what ever truck has the ones I want really
Like a 7.3L ford will have a Dana 60 front axle
And a older suburban will have a 14 bolt
Just depends on what axle combo you want and what works best on your rig
#37
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Ha a man after my own heart
I'll be running 38.5 or 39.5s with the axle combo
Fox 2.0 shocks and 3 link 4 link bla bla
I'll be running 38.5 or 39.5s with the axle combo
Fox 2.0 shocks and 3 link 4 link bla bla
#42
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
-back to the build
Well for some reason my transmition mount holes dont line up
So I'll be just welding a plate on the crossmember bushing till I make a new crossmember
- wont be doing that new one till I cut up the floor to push the drive train up about 2 inches -
Plan on just using bushings from ballistic some DOM tube and a few isolators for wobble
Well for some reason my transmition mount holes dont line up
So I'll be just welding a plate on the crossmember bushing till I make a new crossmember
- wont be doing that new one till I cut up the floor to push the drive train up about 2 inches -
Plan on just using bushings from ballistic some DOM tube and a few isolators for wobble
#43
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Today I was out at NAPA and found this
250 psi compressor $35 !
Connected by a cig lighter
But I plan to run it from the battery to a fuse and ad some witch
Then I found this right next to it
5 gallon tank for $50.
I haven't Tryed the compressor on a tire or anything but I figure if the one isn't enuf to fill the tank and have good pressure I can just get another compressor
I could probly get 8 for the price of one of the cheapest ARB ones
The only work that it needs is new fittings to run a better line to the tank an some kind of regulator on the tank
But at 85$ to fill up tires and maybe run small tools I'm happy
250 psi compressor $35 !
Connected by a cig lighter
But I plan to run it from the battery to a fuse and ad some witch
Then I found this right next to it
5 gallon tank for $50.
I haven't Tryed the compressor on a tire or anything but I figure if the one isn't enuf to fill the tank and have good pressure I can just get another compressor
I could probly get 8 for the price of one of the cheapest ARB ones
The only work that it needs is new fittings to run a better line to the tank an some kind of regulator on the tank
But at 85$ to fill up tires and maybe run small tools I'm happy
#44
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
this isnt my 3 link but i found it on bs fabrication
however it has made my really think about my 3 link
being that they will be closer to 4' instead of 2' i will have a big drive shaft problem
and that ill be adding a turbo
with a big exhuast on one side and a driveshaft on the other theres simply is no room for a top link
so ive gone back to the drawing bourd and desided that the long arm y link will be best for my space problem
and the polly bushing at the end will help for driving on the road
and if im not satisfied with the flex of it ill change the polly bushing for a flex joint of something
this now has me thinking about the back triangulated 4 link
- why not do the same as the front and essentioally loose 2 top links and still have loads of flex ?
this would give me loads of room for a real ehaust system and gas tank relocation and little cheaper than a 4 link
and i could make them more high clearanced
- i feel that its a good choice all around
this is probly the 3rd time ive desided to change my setup but i think this will be the last because it just works best for me and will make it work better on the road
however it has made my really think about my 3 link
being that they will be closer to 4' instead of 2' i will have a big drive shaft problem
and that ill be adding a turbo
with a big exhuast on one side and a driveshaft on the other theres simply is no room for a top link
so ive gone back to the drawing bourd and desided that the long arm y link will be best for my space problem
and the polly bushing at the end will help for driving on the road
and if im not satisfied with the flex of it ill change the polly bushing for a flex joint of something
this now has me thinking about the back triangulated 4 link
- why not do the same as the front and essentioally loose 2 top links and still have loads of flex ?
this would give me loads of room for a real ehaust system and gas tank relocation and little cheaper than a 4 link
and i could make them more high clearanced
- i feel that its a good choice all around
this is probly the 3rd time ive desided to change my setup but i think this will be the last because it just works best for me and will make it work better on the road