And Now For Something Completely Different - Clown's YJ Build
#901
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
looks good Tim.
I made the mistake of grinding the heavy rust and dirt off of my 8.8 in my old shed with the door closed. Now THAT was a cloud of rust dust when I opened the door.
I made the mistake of grinding the heavy rust and dirt off of my 8.8 in my old shed with the door closed. Now THAT was a cloud of rust dust when I opened the door.
#902
Moderator of Jeeps
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
So way back in February, right after the last posts in this thread, my front driveshaft decided it didn't like its home anymore. The problem is it made that decision at 70mph...
It damaged/destroyed:
Driver side front axle shaft
Driver side front stub shaft
Ripped the ears off that ujoint
Front axle pinion yoke
Front driveshaft, obviously! (It ended up puncturing a tractor trailer tire)
Oil pan
Oil pump
Exhaust manifold
Exhaust downpipe
O2 sensor
Transmission bellhousing
Transmission pan
Transmission filter
Transmission shift linkage
Transfer case front yoke
Transfer case (cracked the aluminum case)
That's all I remember right now...
With help from my89xj, some other friends, and the local transmission shop, I got everything back in working order. The problem now is it doesn't want to rev above 2k RPMs when it's in gear unless you very slowly wait for it to accelerate. It operates normally in Park and Neutral. But once, on my way to take it in for diagnosis, it started working perfectly. Then it went back to ****.
I've done all the basics. Did a full tune-up, replaced the ignition coil, replaced the TPS because it was slightly out of spec, cleaned the TB and IAC, repaired some vacuum lines, replaced some PCV lines, checked all my fluids, filled up with 91 octane and a bottle of ISO-HEET to get the moisture out of the fuel cell... At this point, the only thing I can think of is the torque converter. It's irritating.
I've also been looking at new job opportunities lately, so that's had me busy. I've gotten a lot of interest from all over the country, and I'm considering Colorado (along with other places).
What inspired me to finally update this thread today is I finally installed the new tire carrier I bought back in June(?) at the York Jeep Show. Here's a copy of my post from the WDYDTYJT thread:
Removed the old tire carrier, cleaned her up, and installed the new one this weekend. The old one didn't have recovery points, was thin, was rusting through, the carrier spindle was shot, and 5 of the 8 bolts were either missing or sheared off. (I bought it used four years ago for $100.) The new one is Fishbone Offroad. I got the whole setup shipped to my door for something like $250 with a free shirt included. I knew it wouldn't be the best quality at that price, but I didn't realize how bad it would be.
Not one single hole is tapped straight. The threads on every one of the "Grade 8.8" bolts galled, and the heads were rounding off like sheet metal. They didn't include all the hardware on the hardware list, but that didn't matter because the instructions told me to use hardware that was neither on the hardware list nor in the box!
It's still a huge improvement over what I had before, but I can't recommend them in good conscience to anyone. Great group of guys. I met them at the York Jeep Show this year, and I'd love to drink a few and hang out with them. But they won't be seeing my money again.
Anywho, some pictures:
It damaged/destroyed:
Driver side front axle shaft
Driver side front stub shaft
Ripped the ears off that ujoint
Front axle pinion yoke
Front driveshaft, obviously! (It ended up puncturing a tractor trailer tire)
Oil pan
Oil pump
Exhaust manifold
Exhaust downpipe
O2 sensor
Transmission bellhousing
Transmission pan
Transmission filter
Transmission shift linkage
Transfer case front yoke
Transfer case (cracked the aluminum case)
That's all I remember right now...
With help from my89xj, some other friends, and the local transmission shop, I got everything back in working order. The problem now is it doesn't want to rev above 2k RPMs when it's in gear unless you very slowly wait for it to accelerate. It operates normally in Park and Neutral. But once, on my way to take it in for diagnosis, it started working perfectly. Then it went back to ****.
I've done all the basics. Did a full tune-up, replaced the ignition coil, replaced the TPS because it was slightly out of spec, cleaned the TB and IAC, repaired some vacuum lines, replaced some PCV lines, checked all my fluids, filled up with 91 octane and a bottle of ISO-HEET to get the moisture out of the fuel cell... At this point, the only thing I can think of is the torque converter. It's irritating.
I've also been looking at new job opportunities lately, so that's had me busy. I've gotten a lot of interest from all over the country, and I'm considering Colorado (along with other places).
What inspired me to finally update this thread today is I finally installed the new tire carrier I bought back in June(?) at the York Jeep Show. Here's a copy of my post from the WDYDTYJT thread:
Removed the old tire carrier, cleaned her up, and installed the new one this weekend. The old one didn't have recovery points, was thin, was rusting through, the carrier spindle was shot, and 5 of the 8 bolts were either missing or sheared off. (I bought it used four years ago for $100.) The new one is Fishbone Offroad. I got the whole setup shipped to my door for something like $250 with a free shirt included. I knew it wouldn't be the best quality at that price, but I didn't realize how bad it would be.
Not one single hole is tapped straight. The threads on every one of the "Grade 8.8" bolts galled, and the heads were rounding off like sheet metal. They didn't include all the hardware on the hardware list, but that didn't matter because the instructions told me to use hardware that was neither on the hardware list nor in the box!
It's still a huge improvement over what I had before, but I can't recommend them in good conscience to anyone. Great group of guys. I met them at the York Jeep Show this year, and I'd love to drink a few and hang out with them. But they won't be seeing my money again.
Anywho, some pictures:
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 10-22-2017 at 09:32 PM.
#904
No, I don't lick fish.
Wow man, I didn't even know that happened.... must not have been paying attention to your posts. Glad you and the Jeep are okay and glad you've got it all back up and running. Hope you get that stupid acceleration issue fixed soon.
#905
Moderator of Jeeps
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Three updates today!
1) Regarding my mention of a job in Colorado... They just informed me that they filled the position for less than my current salary. Shame, I was interested.
2) I fixed the drivability problem! After months of looking over every system, testing sensors, finding and replacing worn components, chasing my tail... The ****ing TV cable for the transmission was frozen and wouldn't allow the throttle body to open more than halfway. As I forced the cable to draw, clouds of dirt erupted with each pop. I've lubricated the cable, and the Jeep is running great so far
3) The Fishbone Offroad bumper has proven to be even worse than I realized. I went to Lowes on Sunday and bought the rest of the hardware that was missing. This morning, while finishing the installation, I found something incredibly aggravating.
Instead of using wheel studs for the tire carrier, they continued the use of metric bolts for some ungodly reason. The studs on the carrier are M12x1.5 bolts that are welded in place before the powdercoating process. I can't swap them out because it would run the powdercoated finish.
It comes with M12 lug nuts, which is nice since I can't use my normal matching set. Furthermore, the mounting studs are neither level nor in a true circle. Even if they were a true circle, they aren't properly spaced to fit the 5x4.5 pattern. They also aren't square to the plate.
All this combined means I have to force the wheel down the length of the studs, and then I have to secure it with unique lug nuts that aren't spaced properly to locate themselves in the holes on the wheels. And since the top two studs aren't level, my license plate is at a noticeable tilt.
Knowing all this now, I wouldn't install a bumper from Fishbone even if it were given to me at no charge. The silver lining? Their shirt is the softest one I've ever owned
Oh, and bonus modification because I forgot there's a #4:
My fuel cell from GenRight has a spillproof ring around the gas cap. It works wonderfully at preventing fuel spillage, but it also collects rain water until it overflows, leaving the gas cap submerged.
While that doesn't normally cause any issues, I believe it allowed a significant amount of water to enter the fuel cell during the 8 months that the Jeep was parked. It's also a nuisance if I need to fill the tank right after it rains.
To remedy the issue, I drilled two small holes to allow water to drain out approximately 1/2" below the top of the filler neck. We've had significant rainfall this week, and it's working out perfectly.
1) Regarding my mention of a job in Colorado... They just informed me that they filled the position for less than my current salary. Shame, I was interested.
2) I fixed the drivability problem! After months of looking over every system, testing sensors, finding and replacing worn components, chasing my tail... The ****ing TV cable for the transmission was frozen and wouldn't allow the throttle body to open more than halfway. As I forced the cable to draw, clouds of dirt erupted with each pop. I've lubricated the cable, and the Jeep is running great so far
3) The Fishbone Offroad bumper has proven to be even worse than I realized. I went to Lowes on Sunday and bought the rest of the hardware that was missing. This morning, while finishing the installation, I found something incredibly aggravating.
Instead of using wheel studs for the tire carrier, they continued the use of metric bolts for some ungodly reason. The studs on the carrier are M12x1.5 bolts that are welded in place before the powdercoating process. I can't swap them out because it would run the powdercoated finish.
It comes with M12 lug nuts, which is nice since I can't use my normal matching set. Furthermore, the mounting studs are neither level nor in a true circle. Even if they were a true circle, they aren't properly spaced to fit the 5x4.5 pattern. They also aren't square to the plate.
All this combined means I have to force the wheel down the length of the studs, and then I have to secure it with unique lug nuts that aren't spaced properly to locate themselves in the holes on the wheels. And since the top two studs aren't level, my license plate is at a noticeable tilt.
Knowing all this now, I wouldn't install a bumper from Fishbone even if it were given to me at no charge. The silver lining? Their shirt is the softest one I've ever owned
Oh, and bonus modification because I forgot there's a #4:
My fuel cell from GenRight has a spillproof ring around the gas cap. It works wonderfully at preventing fuel spillage, but it also collects rain water until it overflows, leaving the gas cap submerged.
While that doesn't normally cause any issues, I believe it allowed a significant amount of water to enter the fuel cell during the 8 months that the Jeep was parked. It's also a nuisance if I need to fill the tank right after it rains.
To remedy the issue, I drilled two small holes to allow water to drain out approximately 1/2" below the top of the filler neck. We've had significant rainfall this week, and it's working out perfectly.
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 10-31-2017 at 04:15 PM.
#906
No, I don't lick fish.
If I didn't know any better, I'd say that spare mount was patterned for a small chevy's 5 on 4.75 BP
Regardless, that's really crappy fab work. Which is really sad considering you said how cool they were to hang out with.
Regardless, that's really crappy fab work. Which is really sad considering you said how cool they were to hang out with.
#908
No, I don't lick fish.
I see you have that new Bluetooth front driveshaft.
Glad to see it's back to driving status, man.
Glad to see it's back to driving status, man.
#909
Moderator CF K9-unit
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Alaska
Posts: 5,842
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
First long test drive today after 8 months of work, and I got a 70 degree day in November! She's nestled safely in my parking spot at work
Attachment 399374
Attachment 399373
Attachment 399374
Attachment 399373
Last edited by Dumajones; 11-02-2017 at 08:39 PM.
#912
No, I don't lick fish.
Hell yeah man. And the beltway, at that!
#913
Moderator of Jeeps
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
After four years, I finally destroyed the garbage Diamond Audio subs that the PO had installed. This weekend I've been working on the switch to a pair of new Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12s. Stepping up from 600W@4Ω to 1200W@1Ω RMS.
I had to enlarge the holes for the new woofers, and I'm replacing all my wiring while I'm in there. The old 14AWG Copper Clad Aluminum speaker wire is being pulled in favor of new 16 gauge Oxygen Free Copper wire. I was going to use my new 12AWG OFC, but those are too thick to fit three wires into one terminal.
I'm also upgrading the primary wiring kit for the amp, swapping out the old 8AWG wire for some new 4 gauge OFC from Knu Konceptz. I was going to use 1/0 gauge, but the amp only takes up to 4 gauge. It shouldn't be an issue with good cable since the full circuit is only about 12 feet.
I had to enlarge the holes for the new woofers, and I'm replacing all my wiring while I'm in there. The old 14AWG Copper Clad Aluminum speaker wire is being pulled in favor of new 16 gauge Oxygen Free Copper wire. I was going to use my new 12AWG OFC, but those are too thick to fit three wires into one terminal.
I'm also upgrading the primary wiring kit for the amp, swapping out the old 8AWG wire for some new 4 gauge OFC from Knu Konceptz. I was going to use 1/0 gauge, but the amp only takes up to 4 gauge. It shouldn't be an issue with good cable since the full circuit is only about 12 feet.