mattthomas78

Well it's finally back in the jeep!!! Here's a few shots of the progress!!!

And I also included a pic. of what used to be a roll of paper towels.... Looks like I've got an unwanted guest in my XJ, that's ok I got it a little something special.

mattthomas78

I also found a nice donor XJ today!! It's a late 94 model 4x4 5 speed 231 transfer, shows 154k on the clock and runs and drives fairly well... I plan on pulling the motor, trans, transfer and rear ends as the floor pans, trunk pan and rockers have almost completely rotted away... :/ It's sad really, from the outside it looks fairly decent...

I'll be parting out everything that I don't want for my own project so as soon as it's in pieces I'll let you guys know!

I'm starting to agree with another member on this forum "it really is a sickness" lol...

Stay tuned folks!! More to come soon!

mattthomas78

So a buddy and I got the beast running this morning about 3am with no exhaust and.... I think I woke the neighbors! But man does that thing sound shexy!!

When I got up from a small nap at around 9am I decided to go ahead and finish putting the flywheel dust cover, drive shafts, and exhaust on and then rechecked all my fluids to make sure I didn't have any water in the oil, make sure the radiator was full, and had to add 2 quarts of trans fluid from where I took the radiator out to remove the motor...

So as everyone who's has been following this thread up to this point knows, I've never owned a jeep before until about a month ago so I've run into a little problem...

Is it possible to adjust the transfer case linkage?? I decided to pull it into 4wd and climb a small hill next to my house and now it wont go back into 2wd... I currently have the 242 TC if that helps anyone answer the question...

Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

:edit:
Never mind, I figured it out...

mattthomas78

Ok so I've got an issue that I need some help with... The last 2 days I've cranked up the jeep and it'll crank fine and run fine for a few minutes, then it'll start acting like it's only running on about 4 cylinders then it dies.... It'll crank right back up run fine for a couple minutes then does it all over again... A buddy of mine said the battery may have a dead cell so I had that checked and the battery is fine, he said the alternator might be bad so I took it off and had it checked and it is fine too... So I thought maybe the previous owner was running ethanol fuel in it and with it sitting for a few months the gas started breaking down and drawing in some moisture so I bought some premium gas that has no ethanol in it and bought 2 bottles of HEET and poured it in too.... The jeep gave me a fit for a little bit until it got fresh gas and then started running normal or so I thought... I cut it off, let it cool down and started it up again and again it did the same exact thing it did before, crank it up it'll run fine for a couple minutes and then it acts like it's only running on 4 cylinders and then dies... And when it starts running on 4 cylinders the charging gauge drops to 9 volts and then it dies.... I have a code on the dash as well and my buddy is going to let me borrow his OBDII tester tomorrow so I can find out what that is, but my question is has anyone else had this happen to them or heard of this happening and what caused it?

(Edit)

So I borrowed my buddies tester this morning and it gave me 3 codes, P0351, 352, 353... It says in the book ignition coil A,B,C primary/secondary circuit malfunction.. Does anyone know what that means? My uneducated guess would be the coil packs are toast possibly but I'm hoping it means something simple like maybe a loose ground?

Any help will be greatly appreciated

mattthomas78

So after a lot of research I came to the conclusion that my camshaft sensor had gone bad so I went to the parts house and picked one up... Put it on and she seems to be running like a new engine should, at the moment anyway lol....

mattthomas78

So I replaced the camshaft sensor as you know, but now I'm getting another code, this time it's P1391 which is "intermittent loss of CMP or CKP"... What the heck?!

mattthomas78

I hate electrical problems... So the jeep is still throwing the P1391 code and now when you just leave it idling the charging gauge drops to 9 volts and the check gauges light comes on... If you turn the engine of and crank it back up the gauge shows about 12 volts and after about 5 or 10 minutes of idling it drops back of to 9 volt and the check gauges light comes on again... As bad as I hate to I may have to send it to a shop and see if they can finger out the problem...

mattthomas78

This is what I've found so far online on another forum...

"any alternator that has leaking diode allowing AC out will definitely effect the PCM"Saw this quote on another forum so I started searching. I found several mentions of leaking diodes effecting the PCM and causing anomalies in the*electrical*system. I also found several mentions that with one failing diode the alternator could still charge enough or be intermittent and may test as good. I stated the other day that most of my engine codes were gone but the alternator wasn't charging. Well when I excited the alternator the misfires and engine codes came back. I charged the battery fully last night to make sure I could get to work today. I had zero voltage all the way to work. At lunch I removed the battery so I could test the Battery*Temp*sensor. Sensor checked out fine. Put battery back in and hooked it up to the charger. On the trip home I had zero volts. I noticed that the check engine light was not illuminated. Disconnecting the battery earlier had cleared all the codes. I had no misfires on the way home and no check engine light. Checked codes when I got home anyway. Had a P1682- - (Charging system doesn't seem to be working well. Check alternator, etc.) The misfires and CPK and CMP and other codes that I have been experiencing were gone. Went back out and started the Jeep and excited the alternator. It ran on 13.5 volts for about 2 minutes before it went to zero. Pulled codes. P1682, P1391, P0320, P0340, P0351, P0300 etc. Called O'reilly's and asked if they could do an extended time alternator test and they said yes. I'll do that tomorrow. I also learned that a bad diode will drain the battery after a few days of no use. The previous owner only drove this car a couple of times a month since it was an extra vehicle and he had this problem. As a matter of fact the battery was dead the night I bought it. I drive it every day and have not experienced battery drainage. It was also suggested on one site to test for AC voltage at the output. This would point to a "leaky" diode. I'll update after I've finished running down this rabbit hole too...

This is also from the same person on the same thread...

Took the alternator to O'reilly's and they did 3 extended test and they all came back as passing. After what would be a long story about unsuccessfully trying to find an alternator shop I decided to just buy a new one. I went home and put it in and started her up. Alternator was charging 14v. I let it run for about 10 minutes and it was still charging. Took it for about a 30 minute drive so I could get up to highway speeds.*It's still charging, I have no engine codes and my cruise control is working like it should.So, as of now I'm going to say that a bad diode in an alternator may still charge and may check as a good alternator but it can also leak AC voltage that will reek havoc on the ignition system and throw engine codes and screw with*electronics.

He went on to say that he had been driving his jeep for about a week with no issues and no codes... So I guess I'll be giving that a try as well...

mattthomas78

So today I did a little work on the jeep... I started off by pulling the alternator and taking it to the shop for repair... It only took the guy about an hour to fix it and I got it back on in no time, but it didn't fix my P1391 code problem... So I called a repair shop and asked them to explain to me what exactly needed to be worked on and this is what I was told...

"P1391 is Intermittent loss of CMP or CKP and means that either your camshaft positioning sensor is either improperly timed or it could be going bad, or your crankshaft positioning sensor is either improperly installed or could be going bad"....

Well since I didn't move/remove the crankshaft positioning sensor I decided to try the timing and discovered that it was indeed out of time by a small amount, so I loosened the fastener holding the "distributor" or better known as the CAMSHAFT SYNCHRONIZER and rotated it until I had the timing perfect... Now I have no codes and the jeep seems to be running great, for now...

mattthomas78

Well now that I believe I've finally gotten all the bugs worked out of the electrical system I think it's time to start pinching pennies and saving for a lift kit. after that I'll tackle wheels and tires... the tires are pretty much shot but I don't want to buy them until I have more room for taller tires... Then I think it'll be time for some bumpers, the front will accommodate a winch and the back a tire carrier... And last but not least a roof rack, may even try my hand at building one... And that should take care of the outside of my XJ...

In the mean time while saving money I'm going to do something about the hole rotted in the passenger floorboard and do something about the trim on the outside because it's faded...

mattthomas78

Ok well I got some time over the last few days to work on the jeep and decided to freshen up the trim since it was looking a little rough around the edges... So I removed all the trim, then cleaned everything I took off and then painted it with semi-gloss black, waited a day for it to dry completely and then put it all back together. These are a few quick shots taken during the process...

mattthomas78

On a side note I noticed while driving her around that there was quite a bit of popping noises coming from under the chassis so on further investigation I discovered the problem... The sway bar bushings were completely shot and one side was missing most of it...

Also found something interesting in the glove box hiding in the original owners manual the other day...

PocketsEmpty

Very nice work! Good job on the paint, too. What a great feeling it must be to rebuild an engine, put it in yourself, and then fire it up and hear it run. After you work the bugs out, of course.

And in regards to the T-case linkage, what a twisted mess that is. I've been battling a custom linkage design for my 242 case for a few months now, but it's moved down on my priority list. Fixing rust now.

zodiac

Wow, what an awesome revival! I wish I could get that far into the realm of repairs but I can't even figure out why my CEL is on lol.

tripleJ

Does the transfer case make any noise when you put it in 4 wheel drive ? If its a grinding it's your fork pads they are 8 bucks , if it's no sound at all it could be a loose chain best thing to to is take it off and open it up