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Have to say this jeep is an absolute monster when it comes to mud. After a year of wheeling it, I have yet to get stuck so bad that I’ve had to leave it or be dragged out. Unfortunately, I can’t say the same for my friend Noah’s Jeep. He got his Jeep absolutely buried last night and we had to leave it. With One broken mirror and a popped tire, he is pretty upset and ready to sell it. I promised him we would go back this morning and get it out of the woods. More pictures to come.
i start my second semester of college in less than a week now, haven’t gotten too much work done on the Jeep just due to the lack of funds.
My rear passenger fender flare got ripped off once again from wheeling so I have to fix that again.
The front driver door seal is one I got out of the junkyard after I fixed the wiring that was allowing water to leak on my driver floorboard. I had to remove the old seal because it had chunks missing, but this junkyard seal isn’t much better. There are air gaps in it everywhere and I can not only hear everything (wind, tires, other cars) on that side, but it also lets water in really bad when I wash it.
I finally decided to order a brand new door seal from Morris4x4. While I wait for that to arrive, I plan on washing the underneath of the Jeep and hitting up spots where the undercoating has chipped off, and I plan to recoat the rear axle.
My new door seal came in the mail the other day from Morris4x4. I got around to replacing it today. It’s been cold and miserable where I live in NE Pennsylvania, so it’s not pleasant to go outside for very long. Dispite that, I got it done.
Installation went well, I did have to cut about a 1/2 inch off the end to get it to fit. The first thing I noticed is that it is a much better fit than the junkyard seal. I actually have to slam the door to get it to shut. The new seal closed up all the air gaps except one at the top of the door.
This kind of ticked me off, but I believe it’s because the door isn’t lined up properly, as someone re-welded the door hinges before I owned the Jeep. The body lines are slightly off when you look at the door from the front of the Jeep.
Anyways, I got the idea to cut up the old door seal and glue a strip of it on top of the door just to seal that air gap. I used weatherstrip adhesive. Just waiting on the adhesive to cure.
Ready to go Mid-installation My solution for the air gap remaining at the top of the door
My new door seal came in the mail the other day from Morris4x4. I got around to replacing it today. It’s been cold and miserable where I live in NE Pennsylvania, so it’s not pleasant to go outside for very long. Dispite that, I got it done.
Installation went well, I did have to cut about a 1/2 inch off the end to get it to fit. The first thing I noticed is that it is a much better fit than the junkyard seal. I actually have to slam the door to get it to shut. The new seal closed up all the air gaps except one at the top of the door.
This kind of ticked me off, but I believe it’s because the door isn’t lined up properly, as someone re-welded the door hinges before I owned the Jeep. The body lines are slightly off when you look at the door from the front of the Jeep.
Anyways, I got the idea to cut up the old door seal and glue a strip of it on top of the door just to seal that air gap. I used weatherstrip adhesive. Just waiting on the adhesive to cure.
So you think that it was a good fit? I ask because we had this guy on here who built a couple of Jeeps. Awesome builds. On the first one he said he used the aftermarket ones. Was not really happy with them. So much so that on his second build he spent the money on Mopar ones. And those run like $105 each. I always wonder which one I will try if I ever do this.
I've also heard an 1/2" piece of rope in between the seal helps seal as well. Looking good
I tried that but don't think it was as big as 1/2" I didn't notice any difference and I am not noticing anything that is making me think they need to be replaced but I always wonder if the seal would improve if I did.
Found my front pinion seal leaking. While I had the front differential drained, I finally decided to paint my front diff cover. Will upload Pics soon.
The pinion nut was a b*tch to get off. My air impact couldn’t even do it under 140 psi of line pressure. I had to put a huge pipe wrench around the yoke, and used a floor jack to spin the nut with a breaker bar. Used a BFH to remove the yoke from the spindle. The seal was pretty easy to replace, pretty straightforward.
The salt used up here on the roads is doing a number on my suspension paint. It looks like crap. I can’t wait till the snow stops coming for good so I can repaint my axles and frame.
Found my front pinion seal leaking. While I had the front differential drained, I finally decided to paint my front diff cover. Will upload Pics soon.
The pinion nut was a b*tch to get off. My air impact couldn’t even do it under 140 psi of line pressure. I had to put a huge pipe wrench around the yoke, and used a floor jack to spin the nut with a breaker bar. Used a BFH to remove the yoke from the spindle. The seal was pretty easy to replace, pretty straightforward.
The salt used up here on the roads is doing a number on my suspension paint. It looks like crap. I can’t wait till the snow stops coming for good so I can repaint my axles and frame.
I could be mistaken, but I thought that low pinion 30's used a crush sleeve to preload the pinion bearing. Meaning your pinion gear needs a new crush sleeve to get the bearing properly pre loaded.
I could be mistaken, but I thought that low pinion 30's used a crush sleeve to preload the pinion bearing. Meaning your pinion gear needs a new crush sleeve to get the bearing properly pre loaded.
thanks for the heads up, I didn’t think mine used a crush sleeve. I’ll look into it.
I could be mistaken, but I thought that low pinion 30's used a crush sleeve to preload the pinion bearing. Meaning your pinion gear needs a new crush sleeve to get the bearing properly pre loaded.
As far as I know you don't need a new one, you just need to try not to crush it past where it was crushed before... so basically try to match where it was. Some people try to do this by marking the nut before removal. Sounds like it would be tough to guestimate for Mike seeing how difficult it was to get off. I'll cross my fingers for ya!
12-24-2018, 07:41 AM
