how much $$$ to have a shop install a 6.5 long arm lift?
 

going to be getting an xj pretty soon, I have decided to get it stock and get the lift put on. I don't think I can do it myself because I don't want to break anything and my knowledge is limited.. (for now) so my dumb question is, how much would it cost roughly to have it installed? rough country says 8-9 hours on their site, so I would say in the real world, maybe 10-11 hrs because I can count on some broken leaf spring bolts. my shop charges $85 per hour so that is $850- $935 hope it isn't over $1,000 cause I need to get new tires. also, would you guys recommend 33s or 35s with the 6.5 inch? I will likely be deleting the bumpers for clearance either way. some mudding and driving on the beach, no rock crawling right now.. let me know, thanks!

you do know you need way more than just the kit right?
sye
rear driveshaft
gear upgrades depending on tire size
steering upgrades
alignment
brake lines
just to name a few

35s you'll want to regear, so add a couple thousand if a shop is doing it.

Methinks you should educate yourself a bit more on what needs to happen, what should happen, and what's involved. Modding a rig properly isn't just slap it on and go, you need to consider what kind of wheeling you want to do, and plan ahead.

Also, as far as shop prices go, no one can answer that. Best to start calling shops local to you, and start comparing. Not trying to be harsh, just real. Good luck!

I hope you have EXTREMELY deep pockets because its going to be REALLLLLLLY expensive if you want a shop to do it and do it properly.

Hmm, i see. I am new to all of this lol. What if i went with a 4.5 inch lift and 32s or 33s. Would i still need to regear cause i just dont want to get involved with that. I know i would still get a Slip yolk Eliminator And what not. Tell me what else i would need in order for it to work. Looking to spend about $6,100 on the build, Thanks.

Working right now, will respond better later, but for now


https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/nk...-chart-211878/

how about you give us a budget and we will give you ideas on how to build it

budget is $6,100 roughly. I can go a bit over if need be, Thanks!

Do it yourself, even if you have to buy tools and such with help from these forums you will save $, and think about lift height do you need 6.5 , if your going to do street driving with the needed gear ratios will be a major $ factor, study first !

Yep, already have all tools needed. I am thinking now like 4.5 inches with 33x12.5x15 cause i don't want to re-gear. I already have the wheels 15x8 5x4.5 with a 4 inch backspace. I could do smaller wheels like 32s if i need to.

Sounds much wiser grasshopper , 4.5 w/33's will get you over most everything. Spend your saving's on a winch and a bumper to hold said winch, or if your married weave a harness so the ole nag can pull you outta the bog! (dont show this to your nag) (strike that I mean lovely wife)

is it necessary to regear with 33s? And should i get 4.5 long arm? Or short arm? And stock jeep 97-99?

You can run 33's with the stock gearing easier than you can 35's, but it's still recommended to regear, gearset will depend on transmission type/preference but 4.56 is the norm for auto trans and 33's. Realize that bigger tires will make your engine work harder, and change the shift points in the trans, making it work harder too. That's the reason for regearing, gets the rpms and shift points closer to stock-like performance. Also, if you do regear, do lockers at the same time. Or pay twice, your call, lol

As for long/short arms, really anything over 3" you should go long arms. Yes, you can do short arms with a drop, but you will lose clearance.

As for the years, don't discount any XJ...as long as it was taken care of and is rust free, the rest can be dealt with. Yes the 00-01's have the head issue, but it's relatively easy to fix if caught in time. A lot of folks don't like Renix, or OBD1, and 97-99 is generally considered to be the best years. Just remember that you are buying a 20+ year old vehicle, things can and will go wrong. Also remember you're modifying beyond stock, and that opens a whole new world of problems, lol.

My suggestion is to find an unmolested one you like, then before doing anything, get it in top running and driving condition, have a solid foundation. Plus you'll get to know it intimately. THEN decide what you want to do. Plus that gives you time to study up on all that needs to happen...because we haven't even talked about steering and such, haha

I usually recommend the 91-99 models, the newer ones have the cracking head, and a few other differences that I am not a fan of, the 1990 and older have pretty much rusted away by now around here.

Ok, sounds good! Now.. Is the RC X series lift a good option for starters? i could just put long arms on it later if i needed to. speaking in terms of the transfer case drop, it doesn't really bother me as i won't be rock crawling. I could also put an sye in down the road if need be.Literally all the offroading i will be doing is mudding and driving on the beach.

I would need a one ton steering upgrade maybe? It will be a process, I have decided to do all of the work in my driveway as i have heard that i need to know how all of the various components work. That way if something were to break, i would know how to fix it, Also it's expensive as hell to have a shop do it lol.

I will however get it re-geared at my shop, that is way out of my depth. I don't really want lockers on as it will be my daily, If i did, i would do rear spartan lockers. I need to drive a lot on the highway back and forth to class, work and what not. Thanks for the good info!

Also, how many miles would you say is a sweet spot for one? Like 150k? I need to start looking around at some. I definitely want either a black or dark green, 4x4 obviously. Minimal rust, but then again, I'm on the east coast. Anything else i should look for? Play in the U joints, rear hatch.. what would i be missing?