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Green Machine, 98' XJ

Old 03-06-2015, 01:05 AM
  #46  
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Interior - (89' Comanche)

For the interior I stripped everything out sanded off the surface rust on the floor pans and covered it with a rust inhibitor. The laid down a layer of EZ-Cool sound dampening material. I replaced the poorly made/cut vinyl flooring with some carpet I pulled out of a cherokee in the JY (I washed it thrice at the car wash, then trimmed it down to fit, its not perfect but, it works). I replaced all the speakers with some new ones, nothing fancy just some cheap but reliable replacements for now. Washed off all the interior panels and reinstalled them. I also found some different door panels and seats from a JY cherokee that I liked and put those in.
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I also bought and installed new shift boots (transmission tunnel and center console). My favorite mod is the hurst short shifter I bought for the AX-15 swap. And finished it off by installing some euramtec B-pillar lights to replace the worn out stock ones.
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Old 03-06-2015, 01:16 AM
  #47  
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Braking System – (Brake Booster and Master Cylinder, 00’ Jeep Grand Cherokee)

In December 2014, I realized my brakes sucked, an upgrade was in order.

From 84’-94’, Comanches and Cherokees came with a single-diaphragm brake booster. This worked OK for stock applications, but once larger tires and a lift are added in, its inadequacy is quickly shown. Later Cherokees and Grand Cherokees use a dual-diaphragm booster, which increase pressure in the brake lines, applying more pressure to the brakes, resulting in faster stops.

There are multiple ways to do this swap and I'm not going to go into detail as there are sufficient write ups to be found, I picked the one I liked best and followed that: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=924285

I went with 00’ WJ booster, it’s rumored to give a bit better braking. It’s recommended to use a Ό” spacer to keep the push rod lengths similar. After measuring the lengths of the 89’ and the 00’, I used the spacer. The Grand Cherokee MC uses a bubble flare at the connection, so new 3/16 brake lines with bubble flares at the MC and double flares at the proportioning valve are needed.

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Use DOT-3 brake fluid, stick with the brand names. The important thing is to always use fresh fluid from a sealed container. Buy the smaller containers for this very reason. Brake fluid will suck moisture out of the air and this contaminates the fluid. Using it from a fresh container will help ensure you always have clean fluid.

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I also had made a purchase of some decals from Spencer at jeepsticker.com Great guy to work with top notch service. Took the opportunity to put those on as well.
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Old 03-06-2015, 01:22 AM
  #48  
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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AMC 252 4.0L Engine – (89’ Jeep Comanche)

Original Engine was rebuilt at 172,389 miles.

To eliminate the common problem of blow-by created by the towers located under the aluminum valve cover, a new steel valve cover from 99’ Cherokee or newer, with baffles was used. A new style valve cover gasket with replacement grommets needs to be used as well. The vacuum line from the back of the valve cover also needs to be fashioned to the manifold.

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To allow for an easier time locating and a more ample selection of oil filters, an oil filter adapter with SAE threads (95’ Cherokee) was placed on the engine block while the engine oil was drained.

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Engine oil; I run Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W-30. I average ~5K miles per year which means I see about 2 oil changes per year. The extra $$ spent on full synthetic engine oil is worth it.
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Old 03-06-2015, 01:32 AM
  #49  
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Electrical – (Battery Cables and Lights)

As an early christmas present for myself I took the time to fix some electrical problems I was having. After coming out after work and having a no start a few times, only to have to tighten the battery clamps, I decided an electrical upgrade was in order. I did some research on battery cable replacements and knew that the 6 guage stock cable wasn't going to cut it. I've read of several people going with 2 gauge cable, and others with 4 gauge cable. The general consensus was 2 gauge was best suited for heavy demand, while 4 gauge was a good upgrade for stock applications. I am all stock with no after-market accessories, so 4 gauge was sufficient for me. The setup I ran is below:

Positive battery terminal = B+; Negative battery terminal = B-

Battery clamps are brass wing nut terminals.

Battery Cable Cable Length Cable Termination
B+ to starter motor 40" 3/8" on both ends

B+ to starter motor relay/distribution 12" 3/8" on both ends
B- to engine block 40" 3/8" on both ends
B- to inner fender 12" 3/8" on one end, 1/4" on other
Engine block to firewall 12" 1/2" on one end, 3/8" on other

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When I bought the truck the previous owner had installed a cheap projector headlight setup, most horrible thing I've ever seen. The blue lights were awful for night driving, you could barely see anything. And when you were caught in on coming traffic the glare of the lights were blinding. And to top it all of the wiring was messed up somewhere as the headlights wouldn't turn off unless you shut the truck off. Obviously they had to go. I first upgraded the head light harness.

You can make your own http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm

Or go the route I chose, and run the LMC harness. You can pick them up for $29.99 here http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csd/full.aspx?Page=48 part number 36-3580. It says it fits a chevy blazer but it's the same as the eautoworks harness.


Second; upgraded to H4 housings. There are several options to go with when upgrading the housings. Remember to take into consideration state laws as some housings are DOT approved and others are not. I looked into several options:
DOT
Rampage http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_501.htm
IPF http://www.quadratec.com/products/97017_1600.htm
Delta http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_121.htm
Hella http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_02.htm
Non DOT
Autopals (look on ebay for Autopal 200mm H4 housing)
Hella http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=744
Cibie http://www.clearcorners.com/products/cibie/

I went with Autopals as there is no vehicle inspections where I am at, so no need to worry. Oddly enough though, when I purchased them, there were said to be DOT approved.
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Third; get some good bulbs. I used the bulbs that came with the housings (60/55W). Plenty bright with out blinding oncoming traffic, but you can use what ever you find appeals to you.

For installation of the harness and housings see this excellent write up: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/my-h4-upgrade-114440/

For my installation, I used self taping screws to ground the head lights right into the radiator supports behind the head lights buckets. The picture is dim but gives a btter ideas of where I placed my grounds.

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Old 03-06-2015, 01:37 AM
  #50  
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Heating – (Heater Control Valve Elimination)

January 2015, At one point I was losing coolant like crazy, after a new water pump, thermostat housing, accompanying gaskets, and a thin coat of RTV gasket maker the coolant leak slowed significantly. However I was still finding that I was losing some coolant from a slow leak. The other day I found that my heater control valve was leaking....
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I was looking into replacing it, however the replacements are known to start leaking rather quickly as well. After the 97' chrysler did away with the heater control valve on the cherokees and most forums were recommending to eliminate it all together on the 96' and newer when they started leaking; I opted to elimiate it all together. Four less spots to leak coolant from.

Elimiation was very easy; take out old heater hoses and heater control valve, replace with longer hoses (5/8" from thermostat to upper heater core outlet. 3/4" hose from water pump to lower heater core outlet), and cap the vacuum line.
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There is some debate on whether eliminating the heater control valve and having coolant always flowing through the core will increase in cab temperatures. From what is out there, it appears to be personal opinion. I will find out this summer when it gets warm, I figure if its too hot I can cut the hoses and splice in a new heater control valve.
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Old 03-06-2015, 01:45 AM
  #51  
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Year: 1998
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Exhaust – (Dorman Exhaust Manifold)

Since the time I purchased the Scout it has had an exhaust tick, the tell tale sign of a cracked exhaust manifold. This last month I have had a high idle (2000 rpm) with a whine once the engine has reached operating temperature. All my research has lead to the conclusion that it is a manifold gasket leak, simple solution would be to tighten the bolts and see if the problem goes away. However this development coupled with the tick has made me decide to completely replace the exhaust manifold as well as the gasket. I purchased and recieved a dorman exhaust manifold, cleaned it off and sprayed it with some silica ceramic coating, I used off the shelf VHT. I've read good things about this stuff, if using it make sure to get the flammable 1300 - 2000 degrees F.

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I hit it with 3 coats, letting it dry for ~10 minutes in between each coat.

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After the final coat it needs to sit for 24 hours before you cure it. Still deciding whether to cure it on the jeep its self or use the oven.

To help prevent future cracks in the manifold a new set of brown dog motor mounts were installed.

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I went with the flex rubber bushings to help reduce cab vibes. I ran these mounts in the Green Machine and never had a problem. I found the idle vibes were minimal at first then dissapated as the mounts broke in.

Just like there is more than one way to skin a cat, there is more than one way to prep for a manifold repair. I opted to go with the route of removing all the parts to allow for easy access to install new motor mounts.

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Make sure to torque in the right sequence and to specs.

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Shame that they'll be covered up again

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