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A GOOD SYE, Advance Adapters, is what that sweet jeep needs in the end. But here's another thought, a 5spd crossmember will lower your T-case 3/4" w/o losing any ground clearance! It will fit direct bolt in with an AW4 auto. I was wondering if anyone had tried that, with a T-case drop kit ? That would lower your T-case 1-3/4". Almost be like only having a 1-3/4" lift ??? Makes you wonder if it would work for good ? Be a lot cheaper if it did. Sounds logical. I too am wondering which tires? I keep coming back to Firestone Destinations ? Especially with all of the miles you're gonna be driving. I'm thinking 30x9.50x15's for mine.
Last edited by CRLAMBERTJR; 05-27-2018 at 08:10 PM.
Reason: Error
Your axles are the ones that sit much lower than anything. I get what is being said here though and I would much rather my TC be sitting higher up then my frame and not risking any damage. That skid plate will help though. Just all depends on your driving and trails your planning to go on.
Your axles are part of the rotating assembly that moves over obstacles, not the brake-over point that is exposed after you've climbed over said obstacle with your front axle and it's making it's way to the rear. For the center of your rig, as you're moving, the cross-member and t-case are the lowest point of contact.
Originally Posted by CRLAMBERTJR
A GOOD SYE, Advance Adapters, is what that sweet jeep needs in the end. But here's another thought, a 5spd crossmember will lower your T-case 3/4" w/o losing any ground clearance! It will fit direct bolt in with an AW4 auto. I was wondering if anyone had tried that, with a T-case drop kit ? That would lower your T-case 1-3/4". Almost be like only having a 1-3/4" lift ??? Makes you wonder if it would work for good ? Be a lot cheaper if it did. Sounds logical. I too am wondering which tires? I keep coming back to Firestone Destinations ? Especially with all of the miles you're gonna be driving. I'm thinking 30x9.50x15's for mine.
It sounds like you could gain some more drop of the actual t-case helping to decrease angles on the driveshafts with the manual cross member as well, or just don't drop the t-case at all and use the manual cross-member for almost the same drop without losing any break-over clearance. Either way, without re-clocking your t-case getting it lower just increases the chances of it becoming a target.
so I took the doors off of my jeep yesterday, and when I had the driver side off and drove around everything was perfectly fine, however when I took off the passenger side as well and drove around, I’ve noticed that I didn’t have any gauges and my transmission was acting like it was having trouble figuring went to change gears. I have a theory that it has something to do with my passenger door side panel, because in order to pull out the door I had to get down and dirty with the passenger side door fuse panel. I’m not sure what I did but any advice would be great. Never had any problems until the passenger door was off
so I took the doors off of my jeep yesterday, and when I had the driver side off and drove around everything was perfectly fine, however when I took off the passenger side as well and drove around, I’ve noticed that I didn’t have any gauges and my transmission was acting like it was having trouble figuring went to change gears. I have a theory that it has something to do with my passenger door side panel, because in order to pull out the door I had to get down and dirty with the passenger side door fuse panel. I’m not sure what I did but any advice would be great. Never had any problems until the passenger door was off
I'd take this question to a new thread or at least the appropriate section, you're likely to get more traction on it. I'd guess your assumption is correct.
Over the weekend, I slid under the jeep to assess the vibration situation. I decided to throw a wrench on the bolts to see if they turned, and they actually moved easily. The studs were another problem though. I removed one of the bolts to bring to the hardware store so I could match up the threads and purchase new longer grade 8 or the metric equivalent bolts. That took a while because I was stubborn and didn’t want to ask for help. I also purchased some nuts so I could use them to back out the studs that were still in the frame/unibody. The size was M10x 1.5Pitch; as for the length of the bolts, I’m not so sure.
I went back home to get down to business with my boyfriend primarily taking the lead on this project due to his strength vs. mine and his overall experience with this kind of thing. I supported the cross-member with a block of wood (haha) and a pump jack and removed the other bolt and 2 nuts that held it in place. Miraculously, they came out with no torching. I say it's a miracle considering the amount of problems I’ve had with everything that has been done to this jeep so far, problems mostly solved through torching - lots of torching.
So I lowered the cross-member and began to remove the studs from the frame. The double nut plan worked at first to loosen them but vise grips and a small torch was necessary thereafter. Now that the area was prepped, my boyfriend installed the new transfer case drop kit he made out of 1 inch square tubing, drilled and powder coated at work for the price of free. The install was rather easy except I needed a second set of hands to help align the cross-member so I could put the bolts in. Call in, his dad.
I did notice a huge reduction in driveline vibration - now she only vibes minimally and exactly at 30mph instead of vibrating the entire length of 30mph - 40mph, and loudly too. During the install, I also noticed a broken exhaust hanger near the catalytic converter that will be fixed at a later date. We also installed a new mechanical fan shroud and found that the driver’s window motor was no good that day as well, after discovering our replacement control panel did nada. Boyfriend also fixed the hood latch return spring with a temporary replacement for now. Also, I noticed something totally not cool - the rubber seals in my doors were junk all around. Now I need to raid a junkyard or perhaps order new seals online. We will see.
PS - I know I'm taking a bit to get the tires on, but my main concern is my beefy Rubi spring hitting the trac bar bracket... as soon as I figure out how to put an end to that, tires will come.
I've decided to quickly update those of you that are following this thread because it's been about a month with nothing from my end.
The best news - I've got wheels! I spent all day Saturday junkyard jumping and rummaging through auto salvage yards looking for a wheel specific to limited and classic trim Cherokees. Though I love the look of my stock snowflakes, I wanted to go for something different when it came to getting 31's. I still wanted to retain the Jeep look and bought 4 Icon wheels from a buddy for $100. Can you believe the prices for new online factory replacement wheels are $139 a pop for these? Nuts, but not as nuts as the $190 per piece I was going to spend on a set of 5 Fuel Anza's. Glad I went cheap and cheerful for this build. For now.
They are by no means flashy, but I like the look. This is the style wheel.
Also, there were some repairs done. I was in the Dominican Republic vacationing for a week, so I was only able to do so much. The coil spring on the driver's side has been gnawing away at the RE trac bar bracket since it was installed so I got a simple stock bracket, machined and powder coated it and made that work - no more rubbing.
My clockspring crapped out on me months ago, and it's finally undergoing repair.
Grabbed a driver's side door seal and fuses galore from the salvage yards. Picked up another battery box and hold down too, because why not.
Heater core will be bypassed this week, and the actual repair will begin soon by Calvin, who has agreed to take on the job that I not only have little time for, but also lack the skill to complete.
All in all, nothing noteworthy has taken place other than the wheels and some fiddling with the truck. I will not update until the wheels and new tires have been mounted. [img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img] Thanks y'all. [img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img]
I'm not sure if you have made your mind up about tires yet, but my suggestion would be Falken AT3Ws. I threw a set of 35s on my jeep based on a few friends' recommendations and I couldn't be happier. They have done incredibly well off road, and got me through the 6-month long Montana winter without any complaints. They are actually winter tire rated like the BFG KO2s are, but they are significantly cheaper and carry a 55k mile (I think) tread wear warranty. They are very quiet on the highway (anything is quiet compared to my previous Baja Claws). I think they look pretty good for and AT tire as well. Just my $.02 but hope it's helpful!
05-27-2018, 08:08 PM
I also purchased some nuts so I could use them to back out the studs that were still in the frame/unibody. The size was M10x 1.5Pitch; as for the length of the bolts, I’m not so sure.
I say it's a miracle considering the amount of problems I’ve had with everything that has been done to this jeep so far, problems mostly solved through torching - lots of torching.
