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So the front BDS springs in 240 worked ok, I still think I need more spring. Looking at some Deaver front springs in a progressive rate to help in the rough. I also found that the 240/50 Bilstein valving was too light and I was all up in my bumps all the time.
To help solve the issue I opted to add some up travel to smooth things out. Since I had other upgrades planned I chose to just ad a spacer in the front to increase up travel, then add some leaves to the rear to increase the rate. The little increase in up travel helped a ton...but I was still running through to the bumps stops with ease, but all in all I was happy with the ride height and handling
Well, back again.After a good start to the desert season she has seen some good hard abuse and it was time for a mid-season tear down/rebuild. After some fine tuning on the front end I decided to tear it down and add some spacers to the front progressive bump stops. I will be adding an inch to the progressive stops to get them to "come in" a bit earlier. Hopefully this will solve the roughness on the last 2" of travel. I used a glued on hockey puck for the spacer
On the last trip out I also had an issue with the front left caliper hanging up causing the wheel to drag, so I will be replacing the caliper and adding some drilled/slotted rotors to the front, hopefully this will help keep things cool on those long high speed runs. Ill upload some pic's once the brakes come in next week.
Figured since i was going to open up the brake system to replace the front caliper I might as well do the rear while I was at it so I picked up the rear disk brake kit for the rear axle and will install all this at the same time. Th rear drums never really worked all that well and the parking brake never seemed to hold adjustment. I got the rear backing plate for free from a buddy, but it was missing the rotors...so of course...time to upgrade! I ordered a set of drilled and slotted rotors for the rear since I am already doing the front. Next is to go to the JY and find the right proportioning valve.
Note: for those that are thinking about Hyd rear bump stops, after lots of tuning seems that 125 PSI is perfect.
Got a little bit of work today since it was raining all day.
Got the front end all back together minus the brakes. added the spacers and got the coils back in. Also, on the last desert run i noticed a loud knocking noise coming of of big whoops or harsh landings. wasn't able to diagnosis the issue during the run and it didn't seem t be getting any worse. Upon further inspection today it seems that the front drive shaft double cardon was contacting the cross-member. My guess is that on high G out loads the engine and trans mounts would flex enough to make contact. I went ahead and pulled the cross member to create a cut out and allow the drive train to "flex" without making contact.
In the pic below you can see that there already a "relief" in the cross-member for the drive shaft so I will cut it out and make it the width of the CM to make sure I can have the clearance.
Just read through your build from the beginning while watching the game. Can't believe you still have this thing! Most of your build was from like 5+ years ago lol. Stoked to see that you're still going at it. Gives me some motivation as I've also been on a bit of a hiatus but have been feelin the itch recently.
I know, it has been a long process. Like all things you find money and time to improve and find more uses. Funny thing is I've gone trough 3 cars, 2 trucks and 4 bikes since i started the build and always hung on to the jeep.I even built a few jeeps in the middle for others but still always gravitate back to this one. Don't think I will be done with this one till I build a stroker. Maybe it's a sign..that if you build it right it will last for years of serious abuse, just wish I had more pics of actual wheeling.
05-04-2018, 10:56 PM
