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Black Bertram - 98 Cherokee Build
04-13-2018, 03:04 PM
#31
Well crap. looks like the butchered up 4x4 decal is the only one I have— long story posted in multiple threads about my instantly losing all my dropbox stuff.
I forget that the progress I had made on that decal particularly is lost. I'll just have to recreate it.
I forget that the progress I had made on that decal particularly is lost. I'll just have to recreate it.
05-11-2018, 02:11 PM
#32
Last dash
So, my many excuses aside, tomorrow is looking like start-up day!
Here's what's left:
- buy a nut for the alternator and hook it up.
- hook up aux trans cooler
- flush and backflush the heater core
- install radiator
- hook up the water lines and fill it
- fill up block
- fill up trans
- core support install
- front clip install
- battery
- prime
- start er' up.
It's time
Here's what's left:
- buy a nut for the alternator and hook it up.
- hook up aux trans cooler
- flush and backflush the heater core
- install radiator
- hook up the water lines and fill it
- fill up block
- fill up trans
- core support install
- front clip install
- battery
- prime
- start er' up.
It's time
Last edited by jessenator; 05-11-2018 at 02:19 PM.
05-13-2018, 02:29 AM
#35
No, I don't lick fish.
05-14-2018, 11:40 AM
#36
- buy a nut for the alternator and hook it up.
- hook up aux trans cooler
- flush and backflush the heater core
- install radiator
- hook up the water lines and fill it
- fill up block
- fill up trans
- core support install
- front clip install
- battery
- prime
- start er' up.
- hook up aux trans cooler
- flush and backflush the heater core
- install radiator
- hook up the water lines and fill it
- fill up block
- fill up trans
- core support install
- front clip install
- battery
- prime
- start er' up.
I've been recovering from a chest cold/laryngitis and my forearms were killing me by the end of the day. Not to mention the rain, which while on-and-off, seemed to turn on while I was outside and rest when I went in. —this whole build, save the engine tune-up, has taken place outside.
Last edited by jessenator; 05-14-2018 at 11:43 AM.
05-16-2018, 11:45 AM
#37
- buy a nut for the alternator and hook it up.
- hook up aux trans cooler
- install radiator
- fill up block
- fill up trans
- core support install
- front clip install
- flush and backflush the heater core
- hook up the heater lines and fill it
- battery
- prime
- start er' up.
- hook up aux trans cooler
- install radiator
- fill up block
- fill up trans
- core support install
- front clip install
- flush and backflush the heater core
- hook up the heater lines and fill it
- battery
- prime
- start er' up.
Exhaust was a beast, and I really don't have any special tools— cat fit into the downpipe/frontpipe just fine, but that Dynomax muffler is so damn tight I maybe got 1/4" on there before I chickened out and put a clamp on it.
Will definitely make a stop to my muffler guy once it's driving.
05-17-2018, 10:10 PM
#40
idle at temp and checkup so far
Sorry my buddy's talking over the engine idle sound (about removing the heater core, which I hope to have to do), but is that exhaust leak or just lifter tick and the fact that I haven't heard a 4.0 up close in a while?
No CEL yet, but at 20 miles on the clock, not long enough.
Got that tick, but hey, 180k miles on the swapped engine. it runs. I'm happy.
Using old heater core hoses until the new ones show up this weekend. The return hose leaks a lil' at the water pump tube, but that's expected.
Picking up (hopefully) my BFG KO2s tomorrow as well. Or maybe Saturday. There was a massive accident on I-15 that stopped traffic for over 2 hours, or they should've been here today.
Brakes are good. Shifts good. 4WD and low range shift good. No funny noises to speak of, just the lifter tick.
05-18-2018, 01:13 AM
#41
Oh yah, no A/C so I'll have to recharge it, and maybe test for vacuum first so it's not a lesson in futility.
Blows hot air though, so I know the heater core is functioning.
Blows hot air though, so I know the heater core is functioning.
05-18-2018, 10:22 PM
#42
Finally got a CEL lol 
Took a little longer than I thought it would.
P0138
P1282
I did notice the O2 sensor on the cat was a tad abnormal: the metal collar going up was disconnected from the base, and it's probably a good time to replace them anyway. Unless the high voltage means I have an exhaust leak, which is likely, given the puffy sound in my engine bay. :/
Searched up the other code (DashCommand labels it as "Unknown" which is weird), and it appears to be fuel pump relay related. Might swap it with the other relay I have and then go down the line of a) pump connection corrosion; b) fuel pump ground, which I want to try last as it involves pulling interior panels and carpet...
On the bright side of things though:
Took a little longer than I thought it would.
P0138
P1282
I did notice the O2 sensor on the cat was a tad abnormal: the metal collar going up was disconnected from the base, and it's probably a good time to replace them anyway. Unless the high voltage means I have an exhaust leak, which is likely, given the puffy sound in my engine bay. :/
Searched up the other code (DashCommand labels it as "Unknown" which is weird), and it appears to be fuel pump relay related. Might swap it with the other relay I have and then go down the line of a) pump connection corrosion; b) fuel pump ground, which I want to try last as it involves pulling interior panels and carpet...
On the bright side of things though:
05-19-2018, 04:58 PM
#43
Investigating the P1282 code via a rundown by CCKen as detailed (abdriged) below:
The connector looked pretty clean- no corrosion. Going to test voltages on the pin-out
Also, replaced the FP relay since the OEM one was still in it.
Here's fuel pressure as of today:
It's not within normal tolerances (49.2 PSI +/- .5 PSI) but I'm not using stock injectors, but 703s. Maybe it's still not good enough and I need to fix something there...
Originally Posted by CCKen
Separate the pump electrical connector to see if there's corrosion in the connectors.
Check ground for the fuel pump is behind the spare tire mount (closest to rear liftgate). You may want to check to see if the grounds are secure and see if there's continuity between the ground and the ground wire pin at the pump connector.
FP Relay pin diagram, row D:
.........-6-
.......8..5..-2-
.........-4-
You should get battery voltage (12V) at the Fuel Pump Relay PDC pin cavity D4 with the key turned to RUN. Using the battery negative post for your meter ground.
Check relay control coil wiring (pin cavity D6) and PCM output, thus:
Probe pin cavity D6 (meter + probe) and batt negative post (meter - probe). With your voltmeter set to 2 VDC, key OFF, you should see around .02 volts. With key to RUN you should see a slightly higher voltage, such as .03 volts.
If you don't see any voltage at all the wire between the relay D6 and the PCM is open or the PCM fuel pump relay control driver is bad.
If you want, you could repeat this test on the Radiator Fan Relay D13.
If you don't see battery voltage at D4 some other unit on Fuse F11 may be dragging it down.
The '98 has the following on F11:
ASD relay
AC Compressor Clutch relay
NSS
TCM
Duty Cycle Evap Purge Solenoid
PCM
Check ground for the fuel pump is behind the spare tire mount (closest to rear liftgate). You may want to check to see if the grounds are secure and see if there's continuity between the ground and the ground wire pin at the pump connector.
FP Relay pin diagram, row D:
.........-6-
.......8..5..-2-
.........-4-
You should get battery voltage (12V) at the Fuel Pump Relay PDC pin cavity D4 with the key turned to RUN. Using the battery negative post for your meter ground.
Check relay control coil wiring (pin cavity D6) and PCM output, thus:
Probe pin cavity D6 (meter + probe) and batt negative post (meter - probe). With your voltmeter set to 2 VDC, key OFF, you should see around .02 volts. With key to RUN you should see a slightly higher voltage, such as .03 volts.
If you don't see any voltage at all the wire between the relay D6 and the PCM is open or the PCM fuel pump relay control driver is bad.
If you want, you could repeat this test on the Radiator Fan Relay D13.
If you don't see battery voltage at D4 some other unit on Fuse F11 may be dragging it down.
The '98 has the following on F11:
ASD relay
AC Compressor Clutch relay
NSS
TCM
Duty Cycle Evap Purge Solenoid
PCM
Also, replaced the FP relay since the OEM one was still in it.
Here's fuel pressure as of today:
It's not within normal tolerances (49.2 PSI +/- .5 PSI) but I'm not using stock injectors, but 703s. Maybe it's still not good enough and I need to fix something there...
05-19-2018, 05:28 PM
#44
Alright, tested the pins per the instructions:
I've got battery voltage at D4, which is good.
At the end CCKen, mentions that regarding the D6 pin voltage needs to read .02V on key off and .03V key on. I'm getting 0 (when I adjust my multimeter's range, I can see it steadily drains on key off from ~.02V down to zero) and only .02V key on.
And also the text "If you don't see any voltage at all, the wire between the relay D6 and the PCM is open or the PCM fuel pump relay control driver is bad." makes me think I need a new PCM... is that correct?
I also don't know what "open" means in this context.
I've got battery voltage at D4, which is good.
At the end CCKen, mentions that regarding the D6 pin voltage needs to read .02V on key off and .03V key on. I'm getting 0 (when I adjust my multimeter's range, I can see it steadily drains on key off from ~.02V down to zero) and only .02V key on.
And also the text "If you don't see any voltage at all, the wire between the relay D6 and the PCM is open or the PCM fuel pump relay control driver is bad." makes me think I need a new PCM... is that correct?
I also don't know what "open" means in this context.
05-21-2018, 02:39 PM
#45
Got a new header (it's the OE style with the expansion-accordion-looking piping for cylinders 1 & 6). Picking it up today from NAPA. It's a little drive, but I'm glad a store close to me had one in stock.
My CEL went away today, but it's been so long since I've had a Jeep I don't know if that was simply a delayed clearing of the code (I tried it with DashCommand and it didn't immediately reset like my Focus or van did), but hopefully the new FP relay was enough.
Got the exhaust welded up as well—I was hoping for clamps alone, but it seems I got it in as far as it would go.
Also, I have yet to search if this is common, but thought the clearance between my new 253s and the rear sway bar was abnormally tight. They're not rubbing, but still kinda odd.
Also, amazingly, the OEM tape deck works perfectly…
My CEL went away today, but it's been so long since I've had a Jeep I don't know if that was simply a delayed clearing of the code (I tried it with DashCommand and it didn't immediately reset like my Focus or van did), but hopefully the new FP relay was enough.
Got the exhaust welded up as well—I was hoping for clamps alone, but it seems I got it in as far as it would go.
Also, I have yet to search if this is common, but thought the clearance between my new 253s and the rear sway bar was abnormally tight. They're not rubbing, but still kinda odd.
Also, amazingly, the OEM tape deck works perfectly…