|
Big Orange 87 Comanche
Disclaimer to start - This is a Bought not built deal - Not my style but i made some exceptions!
A buddy of mine built this Jeep a couple years back and then sold it to move onto other projects and other Jeeps he had at the time. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...2771bdaca.jpeg Transformation! This jeep now has a built 6.0L LS and 4l60 trans. 241c tcase. Kingpin D60 front axle and ford 10.5 rear axle. 5.38 gears and lockright lockers. Rolling around on a set of 37" Trepadors. I kinda followed this jeep a little bit during/after the build and eventually the sale - it got tossed a few times then once again it was up for sale! I sat on the idea of grabbing this truck for a couple weeks figuring it wasn't gonna be around about the time i made up my mind. So i started asking some questions and then had a conversation or two with the wife which led to me receiving a reluctant nod of her approval so in short order - A Deal Was Made! How about a road trip! 7+ hours 1 way but it was a trip into the Upper Peninsula of Michigan - why not?! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...ffab085c7.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...7db462cb7.jpeg With a passion built vehicle like this, i've come to understand that when the next owner(s) don't have the passion like the original builder - WELL the build will suffer! There are a number of things that have been changed since the original build and sadly they weren't b!tch!n upgrades :/ So with that this thread will be intended to show the revamp and correcting of some lazy work in my opinion. |
I feel that i Must preface this by saying - i'm just pointing out the things im addressing immediately. This is not meant to crap on any of the previous owners if they stumble upon this thread.
The interior is lacking - its definitely noisy in there going down the road https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...5489c9d66.jpeg The rear brakes are completely smoked! Surprisingly the guy i actually bought it from was still driving it to work a couple times a week YIKES! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...d950dd326.jpeg Im not huge on this leaf spring perch and u-bolt/spring plate combo. I'm much more for the RuffStuffSpecialties/Barnes4wd extended leaf spring mounts and those fat in s3xy 5/8 u-bolts and thick top plates! Definitely on the list! Also note the factory monroe blue shocks - they are dead btw! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...b72a2760d.jpeg Notice the bolt head welded directly to the axle tube- likely a former shock mount setup? https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...2fffd82bb.jpeg We'll also just sneak this spare bolt back here as an easter egg... Seriously were these shock mounts replaced at a muffler shop or something!? https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...59de90532.jpeg Fuel pumps can be finicky - very functional replacement and why remove the old one when its been secured safely to the floor? https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...652447f90.jpeg This track bar mount looks like someone had a bad day or maybe 2-3 bad days. Yes its lose as well the tie-rods being badly worn out. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...637443cb7.jpeg Originally setup with an optima battery with side mounted terminals. Replaced with a big boat battery with some short power and ground leads bolted through brass couplers with transfer the juice to the truck https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...5199293e6.jpeg What can i say? Its definitely in good hands now ;) ThatJeepGuy is gonna makes things all better! |
Lets start this by stopping dead in my tracks for a change!
All four of these pads in the rear were metal-metal = Crazy! The pistons on the calipers were definitely extended out to their max! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...aaf1f42a0.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...ee9713710.jpeg So a new pair of E350 van single rear wheel brake rotors and early-mid 80s chevy JB6 caliper brake pads and its looking a bit more functional now. All of this from Rockauto for $127 shipped! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...43e144690.jpeg I had to re-shim the adapter brackets as well. With the new pads in place the caliper would not clear the rotor and the pads were digging into the rotor as i tried to force it into place. A very precision deal here - formerly just 1 grade 8 - 3/4" hole washer between the bracket and axles flange. Now its equipped with 2 grade 8 - 5/8" hole washers per bolt. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...6cbd21276.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...396970711.jpeg |
Took advantage of the nice weather and got to figuring out this headliner and interior some
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...7a34d276c.jpeg Ive been in an MJ or two over the years without a headliner at the very least and its like getting kicked around in a tin can when things hit the roof. I got a box of this kilmat for try out for sound deadening so basically because it was already clear access i figured id throw a couple squares up there. A light introduction into the application of the kilmat itself is the least that comes of it and im good with that. Noticable difference or not? i'm pretty satisfied with how well it stuck to the ceiling and also there wasnt much of a lingering smell after all said and done. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...4c805ac91.jpeg To start off - i grabbed a headliner out of the junkyard from a newer bodystyle XJ. I also grabbed the overhead lamp and factory hanger/bracket to go with it. This is skipping a few proper steps of how the process actually worked out but ultimately i mapped out where the overhead console was going to be sitting after i had the headliner trimmed and fitted, then modified the overhead brackets overall length to line up where i needed it. Trimmed about 1 5/8" off the end of it and then secured it to the MJ's factory inner cross support of the B-pillar using a couple rivets. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...e5570416d.jpeg With a centerline drawn for reference the point here wasn't for an indestructible mount - just merely a solid anchor to keep the light fixture from bouncing. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...5dc16efb6.jpeg Now onto the actual headliner trim. I did a blind cut to get it out of the XJ in the yard - basically split half the rear doors and just razor'd the thin across. There is a factory squared edge about the same spot of the rear grab handles in the ceiling. I started here with my cut for overall length (thats front to back length). https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...cab04072e.jpeg I only cut the outer layer of the headliner - this was it will fold down easily and still be attached. The end got cut all the way through and also the corners cut off https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...f85686278.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...015481b8a.jpeg Rolled the edge over and test fit - sry but no continuous pics from the repeated install process but it was still too long. Drew another line about 1" forward and again - trimmed just the out layer and test fit - close but not there yet So finally just about 3/4" more and another outer later cut and then also removed that first initial chunk as it was only hindering my fitment at this point. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...bcc0cb023.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...61c5306e1.jpeg with these 2 cut lines the headliner folds over and secures into place nicely. The overhead console also fits nicely and keeps the center of this headliner supported. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...4695e2abb.jpeg Headliner was recovered in a high cotton fabric. It was just a convenient amazon find of wooded camo and some hunters orange for color. Sun visors also got recovered and mounted up. I nabbed the a-pillar trim panels out of another newer body xj and secured them in place. This pillar pod setup was secured with just the one roofing screw but now its secured with 4 - factory style phillps head screws. Eventually i'd like to get the factory gauge cluster working as nothing on it works currently- if not the factory cluster then prolly a filler panel and custom gauges in place instead. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...49d3f6cbe.jpeg Just need a grab handle and some of those newer universal interior lights that are pretty commonly swapped into these MJ's. Maybe some krylon paint matching as well in the future? https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...3ef0f6b36.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...f90f6a777.jpeg |
Shocking i'll bet
starting this one off with amazon's finest chevy lowering shackles coming in at $39.21. Good for something like a 2.5" lift~ So this MJ sits a little more level now! As expected the former blue monroe shocks were wasted but coming full circle i still had these red shocks hanging in the shed. These shocks have been on my 87 Truggy MJ build, and also my 98 Rubicon XJ build. Still some life left in them so they can ride for now until i have the coin for a better pair of shocks. Also have new shock mounts for the axle but figure im just gonna wait till the new shocks are around and then i'll deal with cleaning up the tubes and welding the new ones in. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...3d129b76c.jpeg Now lets take notes on this ordeal i have because there is ALOT going on in this picture. There is a ton of slop throughout this front end between the track bar mount, tie-rods and also the pitman arm. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...6e39f2b1c.jpeg What a surprise all four track bar mount bolts were lose. literally spun 3 of the 4 nuts free with my fingers. Cleaned off some of the old weld to make things smooth and ready for a new mount. also cleaned up the unibody seam so i could fully weld it in. I have done this on a few jeeps now and in my opinion it has helped keep the unibody together longer vs the cracks that develop around the steering box bolts. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...d9fa06103.jpeg Now wouldn't ya know it - the pitman arm wasn't even tight either. Add to that this track bar was built using (2) RH heim joints. So if you follow what im saying to adjust the track bar length and get the axle centered under the jeep you have to remove one end AND THEN twist the bar to adjust it. "PALM FACE!" losen up the jam nuts and twist the bar and it just channels left/right changing nothing for length. SOO a new track bar is in order- in the flavor of bigger 7/8 heim joints and of course a R/L heim to make this right. This track bar mount i had laying around isn't matching the steering angle so potentially a new custom mount all-together may be in order. Thankfully after going through all of this and replaced one of the TRE's because it was Really bad- the other i'll do later once im under the front end again - this drives Soo much better already. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...8b3fac968.jpeg Also while i've gotten use to using the B&M shifter I did order up a new setup that's a bit less finicky. I've played with another jeep that had this shifter and i definitely preferred this setup more. So i'll update setting that shifter once it comes in. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...28d666c4f7.jpg More to come! |
Thank gawd its got a steering stabalizer
|
Surprisingly this thing still cruises down the road just fine. Despite the track bar alignment still being about 1" off.
I got my sidewinder shifter in the mail the other day. just waiting on a fair weather day and a little less going on to get it installed. Debating on making it work with a factory mini console or going standalone on the trans tunnel. Definitely leaning towards some type of trim console and shifter boot for the tcase shifter as well SO that factory mini console could solve that just as long as i can make it work with some appeal. I've been hesitant on ordering the tubing and new heims to fix this track bar setup. Local steel yard wants almost $90 for a 3' section of 2" DOM - ridiculous! I priced a new heim set through barnes4wd and they sell 4' section of dom for $79 which is obviously the better deal but i guess the kicker to all of this is something new i found! Its not really something new but it is something that will need some re-working in my opinion so this jeep can do what i want. Typical radius arm setup and depending on how closely also how picky you are - despite the different thread counts on various joints here - the long arms and also the upper arms measure out to be the same length. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...9b763f105.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...75c3f8ffd.jpeg So this is the issue - the fixed bushings on the upper arms at the axle are binding with flex and also they are fighting me when i try to center this axle. Clearly the bushings are splitting from the axles flexing - while this setup prolly wont be an issue for a lot of street driving its definitely showing its weakness for harsher obstacles with a lot of flex involved. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...78214c218a.jpg Ive dealt with this before on my Truggy MJ build in its early stages for radius arm setup. Took me a little time to figure it out but eventually i ditched the drivers upper arm and went to a fixed arm off the passenger long arm. A johnny joint up top has plenty of flex capability and also handles the forces very well. This setup has proven itself for years in this truck without much issue https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...e7214bef53.jpg This brings me to the fork in the road of addressing the front on this big orange MJ - To get the axle centered under the jeep these arms need to be changed - then the track bar length prolly changed as well. Im undecided on changing both upper arms to a flex joint at the top of the radius arms OR if i just default to duplicating my other proven setup. Regardless i dont think im addressing the track bar setup anymore until this is done first. I cant help but feel like im probably going to be changing the bottom bushing on the long arms to flex joints as well... |
So lets address this shifter for a little bit
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...d4060a1122.jpg I'll be honest here, i was oblivious on how to take advantage of a ratchet shifter prior to this truck. Sure i understood the concept and how it works but the actual function and use - i didn't really make the connection. After going through this truck for a little bit troubleshooting some other issues i was digging slamming the shifter up through the gears! Getting full throttle and little rev limiter between the shifts is music to my ears ;) It had its drawbacks though - like the gear indicator wasn't working so it always showed "park" and it wasn't always making the shifts. So i was set on changing things up after all! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...e39d2cf995.jpg Not much for setup process here - Literally removed old unit, setup mount brackets and drilled the new hole for the cable. Then it was adjusting the ends till i could slip through each gear and remove the ball/socket without any deflection from the shifter arm or cable. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...a9d17c76b.jpeg This was a surprise for me - not only cable shifted trans but also there is a cable shift setup on the tcase as well! So i had a small issue when laying out the cable - the cable was basically laying right across the yoke/ujoints at the top of the front driveshaft https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...a7485b2ba0.jpg I hit the junk pile and came up with this old hood latch setup. With a little chop and drill i had this little pedestal to anchor the line to. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...1426380d85.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...b3a28965c6.jpg a couple tube clamps will keep it in place https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...797b5bae3a.jpg Now back inside with the bench seat installed - still want something more to cover the tcase shifter and while initially i figured i would just modify a factor mini console - I'm not so sure anymore. This sidewinder setup is a little taller than expected so its back to the drawing board. Im also changing things up with the extra switch panel that was secured with roofing hardware to the dash. This one is just a little bulky for my interests though i do like me some excessive switches! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...79a79fef96.jpg As always - there's more to come! |
So its been a few months and im happy to report i have my truck back.
I reluctantly dropped the truck off to my fab guys shop to make things a little easier for the both of us on changing the track bar setup. * Disclaimer * i have yet to get good pictures of the aftermath from all his work but I can sum up - Track bar bracket on the axle side got modified to match the steering angle and also lengthened by an inch or two. Trimmed and fitted the steering stabilizer bracket for a more parallel setup to the steering and also flush with bottom of the axle tube. New tie rod ends and also fixed one of my high steer arms as the taper for one of the joints was blown out. New Barnes4wd leaf spring perch's and those fat n s3xy u-bolts. We decided against the barnes shock mounts and he cut me some custom brackets that offset a little farther away from the axle tube for a little more shock clearance. Waiting for his plasma table to cooperate fully before we cut out a custom molle panel for behind the seat inside the cab. Panel will mount directly where the factory carpet panel would sit in the back. The cruise home was excellent! steering is much better when you take out all the sloppy bits ;) https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...abe5d6f9cc.jpg Just a teaser for those quality former shock mounts https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...3d7cf7a70e.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...9ac1b74438.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...624cf8ffce.jpg Now onto my endeavor for the evening - 1 key to rule this truck from end to end! To start i literally just pulled a key from another 97+ xj in the yard and verified door locks and glove box matched and worked properly. The ignition was a very straight forward swap over. These door locks however took a little finesse to get done! Ill highlight the major differences as far as i can tell these are original lock cylinders to the truck so we're talking about 87 doors/cylinders going to a 97+ lock cylinder. There are 4 steps or cutouts in the door which align the cylinder specifically and also keep it from twisting - it seemed like 3/4 if not all 4 notches needed to be opened up to fit the newer cylinder. - This was easily remedied with a half moon file work and some patience. File some and check fitment- repeat until clean fit! If you compare you can prolly make out the slight different in size https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...d6d3e82c1a.jpg Next up is the orientation of the rod keepers and also the diameter hole the keepers need. Old style are the metal clip and new style were the purple or plastic clip. Both newer cylinders were drilled out with a 5/16 drill bit. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...c2fe232f8.jpeg There is some thickness difference as well but in the end it hadn't made much a difference, i will say though you will easily bend the newer style tab if its not secure when you drill - go nice and easy for this part! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...5a7e2a54bb.jpg After fitting the old style rod clip to the new cylinder i used a smaller drill bit the clean up the fitment some as removing and installing it from one cylinder to the other kinda smooshed the fitment some. Some break away or lube here was helpful for final install of the rod. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...83294097b1.jpg Aftermatch fitment is exactly what i was hoping for! The retainer clip was re-used on both doors and secured the cylinders nicely into their new homes. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...8eb709c4cc.jpg I'm getting home at nearly dark now so im gonna try to catch some sunlight one of these days to share the actual work done by my fab guy. Other things coming soon are potential door panels and interior color matching :) Stay tuned! |
Some interior changes, out with these burgundy door panels and in with some 2-piece wood grain and grey door panels.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...79a88af29f.jpg The new panels were from a limited which off course they had power windows soo a new hole for the window crank had to be made. Pilot drill bit and then a 1" paddle bit made easy work of this. Cut a + into the interior side fabric and then crank windows it is! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...eb96c8d58b.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...b8476f20d.jpeg So i do need to find the retainers for the upper part of the door handle. Also gonna be on the lookout for a completely black door handle trim. The speaker grille will get replaced/deleted as well. Currently no speakers in the doors soo either a cleaner looking flush beauty cover or an actual speaker and round speaker grille will go in so long as it still clears the window crank. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...969c06ea98.jpg Floor insulation from a 92 XJ fit fine enough for my needs after some trimming. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...7d2b8c59cd.jpg Followed up by the carpet from the same 92 XJ again with a little trimming here and there im satisfied with its overall fitment. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...d4e3903bdb.jpg Bench seat re-installed with all new nuts https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...73e2352ef6.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...c9e1e211cf.jpg A little hard to make out in this picture but i dug into my shed for this grey set of MJ interior trims. The original burgundy B-pillar and rocker trims will likely go under the paint can to get this closer to a color matched interior. The bench seat i have not decided on just yet whether i have it re-upholstered or just go with a simple seat cover. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...e4b574025c.jpg |
Soo I finally swung into action and moved my battery back up to the engine bay over the weekend.
Currently what it setup in the bed of this truck is a fuel cell, the battery which is to the right of the fuel cell at the far side of the bed. Then also the Trans cooler and this massive 37" spare tire! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...1a5f3788f1.jpg My intentions here is to free up the space and by the end of this ideally only having a spare tire remaining. Engine bay is fairly empty minus the 6.0L engine but there isn't much else for extras. This made this transition soo much easier! Forgive the wire nest over the blower motor, this is old accessory wiring that will also get changed in time! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...a15d4977ee.jpg This was only a little tricky, with a barnes4wd optima battery mount I was able to mount the new tray securely to the fenderwell/wheelwell and still clear the coolant hoses and hood. Gm pcm got shifted a bit closer to the blower motor with ease though I need to make another bracket to support the low side but for now this will do. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...3debe3556a.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...e9834b54aa.jpg The wiring is still a little bit of a mess but with a new 2 gauge power wire to the starter, 2 gauge ground wire to the engine block and shorter 4 gauge lead to the alternator this truck came right back to life! Still need to rewire a few things like the cooling fans, blower motor and accessory lighting but I was running out of daylight and didn't want to open up too much of the wiring just yet. I also started the process of fitting a TJ gas tank into the rear spare tire area under the bed but managed no pictures to show progress. Removing that fuel cell from the bed is a big goal of mine for this incentive of free bed space. What I can say thus far is the fitment is not as direct as many might think! While I am completely aware of the approach JCR offroad took to their application of the tank, my approach with leaving the factory "X" brace and clearing metal form the rear of the bed is turning into a subtle adventure of how little can I remove and still make for functional fitment! I promise to take pictures and better document the progress as I get a little more into this task. For now though that's what I got to share |
Finally got some good weather and also the time to install this molle panel!
Very Secure! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...596c9d6fd5.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...e07d7cb389.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...fcadd60d7.jpeg Very convenient! Currently storing my kinetic rope in a universal mag pouch and then my snatch block w/ soft shackle in the small pouch on the right. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...43920fa36.jpeg Unsuspectingly and securely behind the seat. I couldn't be happier with the finished product thus far. There are still a few changes i have to make to the design for my final product but this will do for now. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...303882fb32.jpg |
So while flipping through Marketplace i came across this jewel of a farm truck. Worked the deal a bit and landed at $400. 2 words - Bucket Seats! The bonus was the fact that the 4.0 4x4 auto drivetrain has less than 100k miles!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...82b450a04c.jpgReally though the initial buy was Just for the bucket seats but besides the little things here and there i plan to save for other projects I'm also going to have the factory sliding rear glass pulled out and installed in this orange truck. Topper wasn't part of the original purchase but was on the way so i figured perfect opportunity to travel safely with the topper. its an early S10 short bed topper and it was $50. Forgive me though as i didn't take any pictures of the inside of the truck before removing the seats. It was a complete grey interior though with a felt-less headliner and the back carpet trim panel still intact- though i don't have a need for that anymore its still a nice find nonetheless. If the broken exterior view didn't make it obvious enough - its pretty rusty down there! Driver seat mount was rusting away, front side has most the damage and one tab on the rear also needed some love. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...879426a7fe.jpg I used the passenger seat bracket as my reference and simply reversed the templates i made to apply in the driver side setup. Passenger pictured Left, mock-up drivers bracket on the right. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...52f21bbdf9.jpghttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...c2a75004e2.jpg Almost forgot the notch for the return spring! The bracket originally had compression rivets and a hard to spot rosette weld securing it to the slider base. I ground the heads off the compression rivets but kept the body(now just a nub as an alignment pin for my new bracket. Welded the rivet body/nub flush with the seat bracket and then added a 5/16's hole to either side for rosette welds. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...993e444f17.jpg Hit it with 2 coats of rustoleum black engine enamel - this has been my go to paint lately. It sticks well and holds its color good enough for my needs. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...605a455f9.jpeg lack of lighting - my apologies! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...97c5f9554.jpeg Gonna have to start looking for a center console setup now that its wide open there. Also nabbed the grey seat belts and buckles - Thank goodness no more Red/Burgundy interior!! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...fc8f2ef52a.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...394dd54914.jpg |
Lets change things up under the hood, it'll be fun i promise!
Overall goals are to cleanup a few things to include wiring routing, heater core hoses, making a new intake to get the element farther away from the headers, re-secure the battery mount, setup an accessory box for all the wiring extras and lastly re-use a later style factory coolant reservoir vs the factory early model reservoir that sits in the driver front corner of the engine bay. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...2f3b55952e.jpg Now, i'm a transmission rebuilder and our shop also refurbishes semi trucks. Wouldn't you know it the charge tube for the semi's intercooler also happens to be 4" od just like whats commonly used for intake tubes on these LS swaps. Granted the material here is a little thicker than whats typically used but for the price - it was just right! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...b2ba3f295.jpeg Honestly i was too side tracked after buttoning up the engine bay for the night so i didn't get any photos of the *finished product. Most of everything i mentioned above got done minus the new intake tube. So this unknown age Carquest fuel pump (loudest part of the truck Seriously!) died less than a minute after fire up! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...7ca86a04a7.jpg This Walbro 392 Pump is just what i was looking for ($125) Btw this thing is remarkably quiet for an external in-line fuel pump! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...cd85d10f1.jpeg Before i could take the jeep out for a little drive i had to switch wheel and tire combo back to the black steelies and mickey thompson tires. These H2 Wheels that i had the centers machined out to clear the hubs were balanced hub centric vs lug centric. No big deal, another trip to the tire store and we'll be good to go with the aluminum wheels and BFG combo. This picture more soo to show the former leaf spring clamp setup from one of the P.O's https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...24ec03b67.jpeg Now looking much better with some spring clamps. Should help a little for the time being to keep these leafs from separating soo much. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...f1462f6e8d.jpg I'll get some cleaner pictures of the engine bay another day. The new intake tube is ideally what i'm gonna try to do next, i've done just a little tig work and intend to use this as my excuse to learn a bit more and practice by doing this intake tube myself. |
That 90 parts MJ is the rust bucket that just keeps on giving!
We planned to do some exploring tomorrow for fathers day and with that i figured i'd button up a couple small things i've had on my mind. Unfortunately not the intake tube just yet (waiting for the right deal on a bandsaw or portaband to do some clean pie cuts). The driver window only goes down till there is just over an inch of glass still exposed and then starts jumping the cable. Surprisingly this parts MJ has great crank windows! Unfortunately while swapping that out i found the bottom section of window track was completely rusted off! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...9a137159dc.jpg Mint vent window for the win! gonna look just a little funny without the tint for the time being but the benefits far outway the out of place appearance! Eventually after i get a new windshield and the sliding rear glass from the parts MJ installed I planned to take this jeep down for a new window tint job. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...1dfed88065.jpg Again the parts MJ just keeps on bleeding those useful little pieces and parts. Currently zero radio or speakers in this jeep, though i have yet to get a radio installed these door speakers sure are encouraging to get something going and see how they sound. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...7117b39ae.jpeg Future high-lift jack mount. Simple L bracket https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...6fd30450e.jpeg pvc spacers https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...3f72773890.jpg L brackets secure to the inner lip of the bed rail and also through the top of the wheel well. This was a $50 marketplace score. High-lift brand jack in basically new condition. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...d0c8cb9b37.jpg Also came across this military E-shovel/pick for a mere $10. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...93b2be610b.jpg Looking forward to some road and forest miles exploring tomorrow for the first time in this truck. Those good-ol-days memories of my early 20's driving my other MJ -now truggy- are something im sure this jeep will help me re-live and even more soo Now share with my son (5 yrs old now). |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:56 AM. |
© 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands