91 Jeep Cherokee Work In Progress
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
#17
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: chrysler 4.0
A buddy of mine bought his jeep with the engine sagged back like that and the trans bracket missing. What we did was put it all back together and hoped the mounts weren't shot. Once we got it running i stood there and watched the engine while he switched from drive to reverse. The whole engine shook (kinda violently) and we determined before he cracked the exhaust manifold that we better stop and pick up a new set of motor mounts and see what kinda difference that made. We borrowed an engine hoist and stripped the accessiories off the engine (for room to work) and then lifted it just enough to get the old mounts off and put the new ones on. Yeah it sucks but i had to put a new 4.0 in me jeep and replaced the entire drivetrain. That was my crash course in engine work on an XJ. We replaces his mounts in like 3 hours one afternoon, just takes some time and patience thats all. Anyway after we took those mounts off you could see how the rubber had been all misshapen from being sagged for a few years and gave it about half an inch of play on either side. Hope you don't have this problem but i would honestly be surprised if you didn't.
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
A buddy of mine bought his jeep with the engine sagged back like that and the trans bracket missing. What we did was put it all back together and hoped the mounts weren't shot. Once we got it running i stood there and watched the engine while he switched from drive to reverse. The whole engine shook (kinda violently) and we determined before he cracked the exhaust manifold that we better stop and pick up a new set of motor mounts and see what kinda difference that made. We borrowed an engine hoist and stripped the accessiories off the engine (for room to work) and then lifted it just enough to get the old mounts off and put the new ones on. Yeah it sucks but i had to put a new 4.0 in me jeep and replaced the entire drivetrain. That was my crash course in engine work on an XJ. We replaces his mounts in like 3 hours one afternoon, just takes some time and patience thats all. Anyway after we took those mounts off you could see how the rubber had been all misshapen from being sagged for a few years and gave it about half an inch of play on either side. Hope you don't have this problem but i would honestly be surprised if you didn't.
#19
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990 - 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
OK solution: Grind away all rust and adjacent area to clean metal on both sides if possible. Fiberglass both sides (if possible). Smooth out surfaces and paint.
Do not use Bondo anywhere where you can not prime and paint every edge and surface. If you pack it in a gap, you need to be sure that the gap is air tight, otherwise moisture will find its way in, the Bondo will absorb it, swell, and let it get to unpainted steel and the rust begins again. I pulled pounds of swollen Bondo out of my Chevelle during the restoration. Bondo might look good for a year or two, but if you plan on keeping your Jeep, do it right.
#20
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: chrysler 4.0
No problem, i always appreciate helpful advice from fellow jeepers so if i find i might have a useful bit of advice to throw in i might as well put it out there and then it's up to you or whoever as to whether or not you would like to take it. Also, seems issues with jeeps are sometimes case by case cause you might have the exact same problem as i or someone else my have experienced yet the soultion to the problem might be completely different. Gonna keep reading your thread as your project progresses, that tire carrier is going to look good. Good luck with everything.
#21
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
thanks for the support man. its gona be a slow built. i wana do the best for my jeep and not cut any corners but my wallet doesnt always agree lol. i think im going to just cut them out and try to fiberglass. im not the best welder and i have only welded on very thick steel at work.
#22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
i think im just going to replace the motor mounts anyways just to be on the safe side. the last thing i want to do is have to replace the exhaust manifold. Any suggestions on some good mounts? i found these and i think im going to go with them.... http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Jeep_Mo...nts/XJ_MM.html
#23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
alright i've got another newbie question...eventually i am going to get the 6.5" long arm lift kit. not sure on what brand im going to go with yet. anyways i have to replace my rear drive shaft now. what all am i going to need to make this lift work. new drive shafts? transfer case drop? SYE kit? ive got an automatic transmission with the 4.0L I6 and the 242 transfer case. i know all of this is premature i just like to plan ahead lol
#24
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: chrysler 4.0
The mounts you found look good, i know quadratec sells urathane mounts that run about the same price as well. As for the lift you plan to put on eventually, if you want to keep your existing transfercase you have to do a hack n tap sye. I have a NP242 in my 99 and it's got that style sye. Nothing wrong with it in my opinion i know however some people tend to shy away from the hack n tap style. Another option would be to pick up a NP231 transfer case, these tend to be stronger however you loose the all time 4WD option. A few companies make sye kits for the 231. There's also a low range gearing kit for the 231 as well i just can't remember which company makes it at the moment. Another option yet would be a NV241 i think it is, this is the transfer case out of a Rubicon TJ. The TJ rubicon comes from factory with an sye and front and rear lockers in Dana 44 axles. In a perfect world for me at least i'd love to get me hands on a totaled rubi and use if for parts for my xj. Anyway, as for the front drive shaft i'm not completely sure about replacing it for a bigger lift but i'd honestly be surprised if you can get away with a stock shaft. I plan to do a 8inch long arm kit hopefully sometime next year. I've decided to go with a rusty's lift i like the way there kit comes and it's the same for the 6inch kit as well. Might take a look at www.rustysoffroad.com and see what you think of their lift kits.
#25
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
well i got the transfer case bolted up...the transfer case itself bolted up no problem but now im having problems getting the crossmember to line up. i think i may need to invest in a new rear transmission support bracket since the one i have is so old. i think that bracket being worn is throwing everything off. sorry i dont have any pics. it was freezing out and was trying to hurry.
#26
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: chrysler 4.0
There are a few things that have caused this when i've worked on my jeeps and had to remove the crossmember. the most common problem i've had is the shock absorber mount for the trans and the transfer case that bolts up to the cross member. Your entire upper drive line could not be lined up right. Once you get that crossmember on the two studs for the crossmember it's easy from there. I personally hate the fact that they decided to have a stud and a bolt on either side to hold it in place. What me and my buddies do is take the stud out, drill the holes out wider and put 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt in instead. You might have to cut a small square hole in the floor to get into the unibody and you can weld nuts in the proper size and thread or you can attempt to tap the holes you drilled. Anyway that seemed to make it easier for us and it's a rock solid fix to a design flaw in my opinion thats just a problem waiting to happen sometime down the road. Anyway, idk what your individual problem is, i understand you couldn't get pictures up but they certainly would help if you get that chance.
#27
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
There are a few things that have caused this when i've worked on my jeeps and had to remove the crossmember. the most common problem i've had is the shock absorber mount for the trans and the transfer case that bolts up to the cross member. Your entire upper drive line could not be lined up right. Once you get that crossmember on the two studs for the crossmember it's easy from there. I personally hate the fact that they decided to have a stud and a bolt on either side to hold it in place. What me and my buddies do is take the stud out, drill the holes out wider and put 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt in instead. You might have to cut a small square hole in the floor to get into the unibody and you can weld nuts in the proper size and thread or you can attempt to tap the holes you drilled. Anyway that seemed to make it easier for us and it's a rock solid fix to a design flaw in my opinion thats just a problem waiting to happen sometime down the road. Anyway, idk what your individual problem is, i understand you couldn't get pictures up but they certainly would help if you get that chance.
#28
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: chrysler 4.0
Sounds good, once you get those pics up i'll take a look and see if it's the same problem i had. Sucks your dad won't let you keep it at his place, my parents gave me a bit of a fight about it at first but in the end, i was doing a full engine swap in the middle of their driveway.
#29
Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
hey there. i was just surfin through threads. i noticed you wanted to do a 6.5 inch lift. i bought a 6.5 inch lift from rough country. i have the 4.0 automatic transmission. with the 242j transfer case. i was wondering about the hack and tap kit for the output shaft as well. i called rough country, and they sell angled shims that go inbetween the leaf spring and the axle housing. they were like 15 bucks i think. i figured it was a easier alternitive to a hack and tap set up. i gave it a shot and i have been running it like that for about 5 months, i wheel the heck out of my jeep and i havent had any problems yet, no vibrations at highway speeds or anything. i have a dana 30 rear axle and a dana 35 front axle with 35 inch tires. nothing bad has happened yet in that concern...just throwin that out there for ya.
#30
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: chrysler 4.0
hey there. i was just surfin through threads. i noticed you wanted to do a 6.5 inch lift. i bought a 6.5 inch lift from rough country. i have the 4.0 automatic transmission. with the 242j transfer case. i was wondering about the hack and tap kit for the output shaft as well. i called rough country, and they sell angled shims that go inbetween the leaf spring and the axle housing. they were like 15 bucks i think. i figured it was a easier alternitive to a hack and tap set up. i gave it a shot and i have been running it like that for about 5 months, i wheel the heck out of my jeep and i havent had any problems yet, no vibrations at highway speeds or anything. i have a dana 30 rear axle and a dana 35 front axle with 35 inch tires. nothing bad has happened yet in that concern...just throwin that out there for ya.
Last edited by cherokee94&99; 11-07-2010 at 09:12 PM.