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So, I can't open the rear hatch of the XJ. The handle lifts, but doesn't feel like it is connected to anything inside the door. Also, the lock is drilled out (I put a pen in there for reference.)
Handle Doesn't Work/Lock Drilled Out Lock Cylinder is drilled out and handle doesn't work.
So I'm gonna have to crawl in through the back seat and modify the handle from the inside. Maybe I'll replace it with a new unit. I'll have to do some research on it. But first, get access to the hatch.
Cargo Area Messy cargo area - haven't been back here yet.
With the cargo area empty, you can see that somone has already removed the door panel...and... Door Panel Removed Looks like the hatch handle has already been modded.
Someone already added a piece of wire to the handle. Success!
Rear Hatch Handle Fixed Someone already modified the hatch with a piece of wire to pull on.
Next, we'll inspect the messy bundle of wires I found under the plastic panel in the cargo area, by the driver side taillight. It looks like the complete wire bundle was cut, and some new speaker wires were spliced in...to the speakers. The rest of the wires just end at the cut. I know my turn signals don't work, this could be why.
Also, apparently my XJ is rusting from the inside out.
New Power Steering Cap! How to work transfer case, please?
No photo. I went to a local wrecking yard at lunch today. They had one cherokee 2.5L, which is NOT the power steering cap I need for my 4.0XJ.
BUUUT, they had a 1998 Grand Cherokee 4.0 - and the power steering cap fits fine on my XJ.
So, no more whining power steering pump, and after topping off the power steering fluid - the slop is all gone from my steering! Score!
So I went for a li'l drive...and tried using 4wd in the snow today, but I don't know how to engage the transfer case. Well, I can move the handle from 2 Hi, back to 4 Hi (and I can't do donuts anymore, so it's probably in 4wd), but I can't move the handle back to 4 Low. Or Neutral. I probably need to leave the Transmission in Drive and let the XJ creep forward to sync everything up and let the transfer case slip into 4 Low. We'll see.
You need to just scrap that rusted beast man...the cancer has spread.
I must admit, it was a shock to see all that rust when I dislodged that panel by the taillight. That bundle of loose wires isn't promising either.
I need to pull the entire carpet and get in there with a shop vac. Let's get a full diagnosis on this rust.
Plus, maybe I should learn how to wire a set of taillights - it looks like I have some splicing to do. Maybe find a similar harness in a junkyard and take it, then I can match it up, wire for wire. I'm not sure, but I'm sure I'll figure it out.
No Way!! For $200 it doesn't matter how much rust it has. Have some fun with that bad boy! I'm really interested to see what becomes of this.
I appreciate the thumbs up. You're Pickle Jar XJ is a fine-looking machine. Those wheels and tires look so good on there. I'm gonna read your build thread after I finish replying.
So I finally brought the Cherokee home from work. I had driven it straight to work after I bought it, and I have been using it daily for lunch runs and short field trips. Now it is home, where it belongs.
It is time for work to really begin on this thing. We just so happened to have a sunny weekend in the 50's (normally it'd be like 14 degrees, dark February winter.) So I figure we'll wash this bad boy.
Cherokee Rainbow - the First Car Wash. Cherokee Rainbow!
Then we headed to the hardware store for some engine degreaser. Hardware Store. First Hardware Store Trip!
I bought Gunk. It did ok. I think it needs another application. Or maybe I'll try one of the other alternatives I have seen online. I'll write about it if I do.
Gunk Engine Degreaser Gunk - It did ok.
Engine, Whole - Before Engine Degreaser - Before.
Engine, Whole - After Engine Degreaser - After.
Valve Cover Detail - Before Engine Degreaser - Before.
Valve Cover Detail - After Engine Degreaser - After.
Soak the engine down with Purple Power. You can get it at most parts stores for about $6 a gallon. Put it in a cheap spray bottle at 100% power and apply liberally to a dry engine bay, let it sit for about 10 min then hose it off. That stuff will take off damn near anything. Just be sure to wear safety glasses or goggles and don't leave it on your skin for long. Probably best to wear latex gloves if you have sensitive skin.
I used Superclean for mine. Pretty sure its the same as Purple Power. Works like a champ. Had to do about 3 coats, but it is spotless now. Didnt even have to scrub. That stuff works so good, it just about takes paint off.
Thanks for the advice on the cleaners. I'll one of them a try, then write about it.
The Gunk did ok. It mostly melted away that greasy dust that coats everything. I have more before and after comparison photos, and I'll do a better write up.
Brake Reservoir - Before Degreaser
Brake Reservoir - After Degreaser
You can see that GUNK melted away the "overall" greasy dirt that coated the entire surface of my brake reservoir. Though the thick dirt under the cap and built up in the crevices and cracks is still there. It'll need scrubbing (not that I'm going to scrub it. No way.)
Head Stud - Before Degreaser
Head Stud - After Degreaser
GUNK did OK here. This thing was (is) super dirty and greasy. And it still is, really. BUT with the heavy, heavy stuff gone we can actually see the 12 points of the nut.
(I'm doing this internet stuff in between tasks at work. So most of my posts will be in stages. I'll throw some photos up with a title. Then I'll go back and add descriptions to the photos and add some text about each one. Then a write up of the product being used.)
Snagged this li'l guy at Wally World. It was on Clearance and I needed a filter for ol' Sammy the Jeep.
Fram High Mileage, avec SureGRIP (Filtre A Huile). Clearance Oil Filter from Wally World.
Last edited by MWMahoneyJr; 02-21-2017 at 09:21 AM.
So, I finally drove the Jeep home last weekend. I had been storing it at work because the steering and brakes have been sketchy, plus there was a check engine light and it wasn't running right. So I didn't want to risk getting stranded on the 30 mile trip home.
BUT, we had a beautiful weekend. And I've been watching a lot of RoadKill on Yourtube - those guys just grab a beater and go for it. So time to get off my *** and drive this thing home. Plus, once I found a power steering cap and topped off the steering - no more slop in the steering. And the computer reset when I had the battery disconnected - no more check engine light - and it idles smooth as silk (I still need to replace the sensors.) So, time to drive it home.
Assessment of the drive home:
Coils/Leafs - The suspension is sagged. I'm not sure if I want to build a bastard pack or just buy new HD leafs from Crown. Same for the coils. I like the idea of searching a junkyard for useable parts.
Shocks - I need shocks, Baaad! The front passenger tire is constantly bouncing and shimmying. I go over a whoopsiedoo on the freeway and the whole Jeep is bouncing up and down. The front bounces a little more because it is heavier, then the front passenger side dips lower with each bounce because the shock is completely dead - so now I'm bouncing up and down at 50mph, but with a little lean to the passenger side each time.
Squishy brakes - inspect brakes. Bleed, replace, whatever is needed. I've never worked on drum brakes. So this'll be a learning experience. Maybe get some lines from the junkyard when I get my radiator support.
Gauges go in and out - I need to periodically tap the gauge cluster to get the gauges to react. They'll all be zeroed out - *Tap-Tap* and they all jump to correct position.
Overall Rattle/Shimmy/Looseness - I have to check damn near everything. Ball Joints, Bearings, Steering components, bushings, bump stops. It'll all probably get replaced, but I want to do it in stages and minimize downtime - keep the Jeep up and active.
Not trying to be a dick, but you should junk the OCOD ( orange can of death) . Fram oil filters are notorious for being crap. Do some reading on the forum. I believe Duma made a video a while back where he cuts one open and shows why they suck. Grab a Wix, NAPA gold, or at least Mopar.
02-09-2017, 03:05 PM
Rear Hatch and Wiring
