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I took it out for now, I'll put it in before actually painting so I don't put extra stress on it, wouldn't want to tear it out. Thanks for the heads up. Is it the same deal on the hatch glass do you know? I know they're both glued in and non removeable.
I don't know how that is set up. He did that for me later. When I swapped all my glass over to Factory Privacy Glass. I did not watch him then either. I did the rest and just let him handle the hatch window cause I felt it was better to have that professionally done. I know about the front cause I could see it before it was done, where the old molding had pulled out in those sections I told you about, and I bought the new molding for that from my Jeep Dealership so I saw the channel all around on it. There was no Mopar hatch molding to be had so he used whatever he uses and I never saw it before the install. Thinking assume it is the same to be on the safe side.
I don't know how that is set up. He did that for me later. When I swapped all my glass over to Factory Privacy Glass. I did not watch him then either. I did the rest and just let him handle the hatch window cause I felt it was better to have that professionally done. I know about the front cause I could see it before it was done, where the old molding had pulled out in those sections I told you about, and I bought the new molding for that from my Jeep Dealership so I saw the channel all around on it. There was no Mopar hatch molding to be had so he used whatever he uses and I never saw it before the install. Thinking assume it is the same to be on the safe side.
I need to have my rear window resealed. It leaks a little bit and I can't find exactly where around the window it is leaking.
I need to have my rear window resealed. It leaks a little bit and I can't find exactly where around the window it is leaking.
My understanding is that a '96 and down hatch window is the same as putting in a cargo bay window. Put the molding around the glass, use the rope trick like in the videos, place it in, pull on the rope ends, and you are good to go.
To bad '97 and up is not the same.
Applied self etcher to any bare metal, needs one more coat. Once it's fully cured I'll sand the roof with 120 one final time before shooting raptor on it. I think the roof is going to be the biggest part of this job. Of course, nobody will be paying attention to it once it's done. Just don't want it to peel up or crack anytime soon, trying to do a good job at the prep work.
Getting undercoating off the flares was horrible, even after using aircraft stripper it took me forever to get it off. Threw some white spray paint on it for now until I can get the bare metal primed up.
Isn't supposed to rain for a week so I plan on removing stuff after work tomorrow and sanding most of Tuesday morning. I really need to set up a canopy or some kind of paint booth.
Slowly taking things apart, trying to get the border of the rear quarter glass painted along with the door jambs by the end of the week. Going to seam seal the fender armor tomorrow morning.
Dang, bro. Get it. I don’t know what raptor liner is but curious how this turns out.
Hey thanks! I'm curious as well.
Its a 2k urethane based paint and you get the bedliner texture with the schutz gun it comes with, UV resistant, super tough coating. Texture depends on how high PSI you spray it at.
Door jambs and rear glass area done today, used a heat gun after letting it dry a bit because it was 40 degrees out. Hopefully that speed up the cure time a bit. Next up is back of rear hatch and doors, then the roof then the body
You keeping track of how many hours you have into it? I'm interested to know. I really would like to do the same to mine, just don't know if I'll find that kind of time any time soon.
03-01-2019, 03:22 PM
