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Heres a better list of the overall plan
This is pretty much all preventative maintenance
Replace:
TPS
Fuel injectors
Starter
Upgraded alternator
Wheel bearings
All suspension bushings
Shocks (I'll probably wait until I get a lift)
U-joints
Brown Dog motor mounts
(Need recommendations for transmission mounts)
Upgrade headlight harness
Swap instrument panel cluster to get rid of idiot lights and huge fuel gauge
Radiator
Brakes and rotors
Entire exhaust system
+The things I've included at the beginning of the thread
I don't have one personally but I've had my eye on the thread last year. Seems other forum members are happy with them. Might be a good place to start looking.
For window, door seals/ weatherstripping, I did it. It's pricey but worth it. I think the door seals were the lowest cost seals I had though so I'm curious where you are buying them? Are you getting pre-cut stuff or going with the generic stuff? I think with the seals you can go with a lot of options, like the OEM stuff is expensive, some aftermarket pre-cut stuff ranges from cheap to expensive, and the generic stuff can be pretty low cost.
I mean, it's all still quite expensive to do, but when you are ready to do it you'll save yourself some money shopping around and looking into the generic stuff if you need to.
I don't have one personally but I've had my eye on the thread last year. Seems other forum members are happy with them. Might be a good place to start looking.
For window, door seals/ weatherstripping, I did it. It's pricey but worth it. I think the door seals were the lowest cost seals I had though so I'm curious where you are buying them? Are you getting pre-cut stuff or going with the generic stuff? I think with the seals you can go with a lot of options, like the OEM stuff is expensive, some aftermarket pre-cut stuff ranges from cheap to expensive, and the generic stuff can be pretty low cost.
I mean, it's all still quite expensive to do, but when you are ready to do it you'll save yourself some money shopping around and looking into the generic stuff if you need to.
Thanks for the link! For the glass run seals and outer seals I got oem from Quadratec, rear quarter seals are Fairchild, I’m not sure what hatch weatherstripping is, probably Fairchild, but it’s all precut. I think I paid right around $180. I may try generic, uncut, weatherstripping when I do the doors.
EDIT: looks like XJwonder isn’t making mounts anymore
So I drove the Jeep for about 30 or 40 minutes today and two things
1. I recently finally fixed the power steering leak but now the PS pump is still whining.. I’ve bleed the pump, with front tires lifted, and the fluid isn’t bubbling like it used to. So I’m thinking the pump is going out now but I really don’t want to replace that.
2. I pulled in the driveway to check fluids and then put it in drive to pull in the garage and the transmission started making a sound, almost a clunking, but also kinda like what the ps pump sounds like when it’s low on fluid. I checked the fluid level and it’s fine, so I don’t know what that is.
Slowly remembering things I have that are ready to install.
I’ve also got the oil filter adapter o-ring that I’ll install on the next oil change and a new throttle body gasket that I’ll put on after I clean the TB
A little tip, put some weatherstripping between the roof and the two cross supports, seriously helped with the rattles and clanks until I get the headliner back in Little update:
1. I was driving today and accelerator pedal got really sensitive, like it was when I first bought it before I adjusted the throttle cable, then the next time I started it it was idling real rough so I adjusted the throttle cable and it fixed it
2. When it’s “cold” (I’m not quite sure what “cold” means, engine cold? cold temperature outside?) anyway when it’s cold, usually driving home at night, I lose a little squirt of coolant out the radiator cap and the belt squeals every time I turn until it gets to operating temps, I think the belt needs loosened a bit, I’ll do that tomorrow. As for the coolant I’m not sure why it’s only when it’s cold, again usually only at night, I’m assuming something about pressure change, I’m gonna get a new cap, also coolants a little past full.
Stopped the belt from squealing by tightening it, seams to not lose coolant now either. Got some wet sanding done on the hatch yesterday since it was above freezing, Ive got to finish up this week then I’ll polish it. I started with the hatch because that’s where the zebra striping was the worst. Also started to install new window seals (glass run seals) and turns out they’re not gonna help my problem of water coming in the window, so I’m not sure what to do about that. This is where water comes in on all four doors
You're doing a great job. That paint job looks pretty damn good for being rattlecanned. I know you may not want to hear it, but dont feel bad to use a little black silicone to fix some weatherstripping, even if its just temporary. I had a 95 Bronco that had leaks in the side window seals on the top that came off over the rear. They would leak all into the truck, and with what it would've cost to replace seals, (I was quoted 600 at a local glass shop), that $5 tube of black silicone from HD looked damn good. Keep up the good work.
You're doing a great job. That paint job looks pretty damn good for being rattlecanned. I know you may not want to hear it, but dont feel bad to use a little black silicone to fix some weatherstripping, even if its just temporary. I had a 95 Bronco that had leaks in the side window seals on the top that came off over the rear. They would leak all into the truck, and with what it would've cost to replace seals, (I was quoted 600 at a local glass shop), that $5 tube of black silicone from HD looked damn good. Keep up the good work.
Thank you. I’ve got some silicone I’ve used for some seams to try and stop some water but I’m not sure how I’d use it on the windows since they’ll be moving up and down, in my mind that’d either stick to the window or end up torn up.
Thank you. I’ve got some silicone I’ve used for some seams to try and stop some water but I’m not sure how I’d use it on the windows since they’ll be moving up and down, in my mind that’d either stick to the window or end up torn up.
You're right it would end up a mess. It wouldn't help with those seals in particular, but would work for the windshield or rear hatch, or rear windows.
You're right it would end up a mess. It wouldn't help with those seals in particular, but would work for the windshield or rear hatch, or rear windows.
yes, I actually bought the silicone for the windshield but have decided to just have it replaced, when I install the new quarter window seals I’m gonna put a layer of silicone around them
Finished wet sanding the hatch, I’ll post pictures when I polish it.
I gutted the interior again so I can start cleaning out as much rust as possible and get the floors welded in a couple weeks.
While I was wire brushing the rust a guy who lives down the street from me said he has a hood for his old Jeep and asked if I wanted it Free hood! Majority of the parts I’ve ordered, still some boxes in the basement Found my old distributor cap while cleaning the garage figured I’d take some pictures
Alright it’s been awhile, finally got most of the floors welded on Friday. I was up all night Thursday doing the waterpump and thermostat and getting the Jeep ready for the 1.5 hour drive, made it there and back no problems. Also had to go to Walmart at 5 am because I thought I had coolant... that sucked haha.
So for the waterpump and thermostat the hardest part was cleaning the surfaces but pretty straightforward.. if you don’t forget to put the thermostat in before you put on the new housing . Also make sure you loosen the pulley bolts before taking the belt off. I did a waterpump on a BMW X3 about two years ago and that went much quicker probably to the fact that that one didn’t use a gasket. For reference the waterpump bolts get torqued to 17ft/lbs and the thermostat bolts get torqued to 13ft/lbs. Be warned this gasket sealant and can become a sticky disaster if you’re not really careful. Also but on a new radiator cap. I seem to be the only one with this problem, but I had to move my ps pump to the side to slide the electric fan out or else the little bolt in the middle of the fan would catch on the pulley.
The clean garage I started with vs the disaster I ended with almost 10 hours later Looks worse in person I promise
I’ll get pictures of the patches made on the floors soon, but there’s still a few patches that need to be made. Right now the plan is to go back and drop the fuel tank and take care of any rust above it and patch any tiny holes found, then patch all remaining holes, then paint, then seam sealer, then more paint, then full interior back in after over a year of having it out.
finally got some badges off Facebook marketplace to clean up the Jeep. Although I’m not sure how to put on the Jeep emblem for the front because my header panel thing doesn’t have holes for those studs to go through, maybe these are for a different year? Maybe I could dremel the studs off and just use emblem adhesive.
02-19-2019, 02:20 PM
. Also make sure you loosen the pulley bolts before taking the belt off. I did a waterpump on a BMW X3 about two years ago and that went much quicker probably to the fact that that one didn’t use a gasket. For reference the waterpump bolts get torqued to 17ft/lbs and the thermostat bolts get torqued to 13ft/lbs.
