Triad area help?
#31
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Unfortunately I have class on mondays from 5-9PM. My schedule is pretty consistant. Tues-Fri I work from 6am-3pm, I am off on weekends, and Monday i work from 6am-3pm and have class as stated above. I just got a response from Rubicon Express and they mentioned to check the upper control arm bushings. Any way to do this without a jack? At first glance they appear to be in good condition.
#32
Beach Bum
When my upper control arm bushings were bad I could tell because the arm was off-center on the bushing. The bushings are round with a metal sleeve that the arm bolts through. That sleeve and bolt should be centered in the bushing.
They should have been replaced with the lift along with the axle bushings. New arms are about $30 with one bushing included. The bushings in the axle are separate and a bit more involved to replace. But still cheap.
One upper control arm at a time can be easily removed and inspected. 15mm socket and 15mm wrench. Remove, inspect, reinstall and then do the other one. Only remove one at a time!!!
The jeep should be on level ground, in park with the front wheels chocked.
They should have been replaced with the lift along with the axle bushings. New arms are about $30 with one bushing included. The bushings in the axle are separate and a bit more involved to replace. But still cheap.
One upper control arm at a time can be easily removed and inspected. 15mm socket and 15mm wrench. Remove, inspect, reinstall and then do the other one. Only remove one at a time!!!
The jeep should be on level ground, in park with the front wheels chocked.
Last edited by SteveMongr; 06-05-2014 at 08:39 AM. Reason: spelling.
#33
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Year: 1996
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No one told me I should rplace the uppers as well when I lifted it. Either way that sounds like a job I can do in my apartment complex's parking lot. I know what I am doing this weekend haha. Wish me luck one of them are bad. Sounds weird to say that but I am getting tired of hearing it clunk around down there.
#34
Beach Bum
Sway bar
I would disconnect the links to the swaybar (on axle) first and see if that does it. That is 2 bolts, 3/4"
My arm-chair diagnoses is still leading towards that. And you mentioned the bushings were not in the greatest shape. That is suspect!
My arm-chair diagnoses is still leading towards that. And you mentioned the bushings were not in the greatest shape. That is suspect!
#35
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Sounds like your heading in the right direction.
Good advice coming from these guys, definately don't take both uppers off at once or u won't get it back without a jack, not to mention it could hurt...
I have classes monday thru thursday various times, 6 hours a day, I do yardwork friday morning/early afternoon then I head to Greensboro, my weekends stay pretty busy, granted I accomplish nothing of importance, but floating the river, partying, going to the lake, etc... are all ranked pretty high on my priority list.
Good advice coming from these guys, definately don't take both uppers off at once or u won't get it back without a jack, not to mention it could hurt...
I have classes monday thru thursday various times, 6 hours a day, I do yardwork friday morning/early afternoon then I head to Greensboro, my weekends stay pretty busy, granted I accomplish nothing of importance, but floating the river, partying, going to the lake, etc... are all ranked pretty high on my priority list.
#37
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Year: 1996
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No not really. I am going home this weekend to see a concert so I am going to try to knock out the oil pan early saturday morning and hopefully still have time to look at the upper control arms.
#38
Beach Bum
Oil pan is no fun. But it's a good time to inspect components because things have to come apart to drop the axle far enough to get the pan out. Shocks, track-bar, sway links, sometimes steering.
Good time to replace the rear main seal as well.
I suggest the 'one-piece' oil pan gasket from Felpro.
Good time to replace the rear main seal as well.
I suggest the 'one-piece' oil pan gasket from Felpro.
#39
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Year: 1996
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yeah I already have the Felpro gasket along with some Shell Rotella T6 and a WIX oil filter ready to go. I have read its best not to replace the rear main seal unless it is already leaking. Kind of like the "if aint broke, don't fix it" mentality. Any pointers on doing the oil pan? I need it to go as smoothly as possible.
#40
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Well I replaced the oil pan gasket and wouldnt you know, I forgot to put RTV sealant on the corners and it is already leaking again. Can I reuse the Felpro gasket or do I need to order another one? Lucky for me all I had to remove was the starter and the oil pan slid right out.
As for the clunking noise. I figured out it is actually coming from the rear of the vehicle. It appears that my new wheels are not thick enough to allow the lugnuts to tighten all the way down and press against the hubs. The lugnuts are as tight as I can get them but if I press the brake drum I can hear it wiggle and make the clunking noise I have been hearing. Can I just get some washers to place behind the wheel to bring it out a bit?
As for the clunking noise. I figured out it is actually coming from the rear of the vehicle. It appears that my new wheels are not thick enough to allow the lugnuts to tighten all the way down and press against the hubs. The lugnuts are as tight as I can get them but if I press the brake drum I can hear it wiggle and make the clunking noise I have been hearing. Can I just get some washers to place behind the wheel to bring it out a bit?
#41
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Year: 1997
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Well I replaced the oil pan gasket and wouldnt you know, I forgot to put RTV sealant on the corners and it is already leaking again. Can I reuse the Felpro gasket or do I need to order another one? Lucky for me all I had to remove was the starter and the oil pan slid right out.
As for the clunking noise. I figured out it is actually coming from the rear of the vehicle. It appears that my new wheels are not thick enough to allow the lugnuts to tighten all the way down and press against the hubs. The lugnuts are as tight as I can get them but if I press the brake drum I can hear it wiggle and make the clunking noise I have been hearing. Can I just get some washers to place behind the wheel to bring it out a bit?
As for the clunking noise. I figured out it is actually coming from the rear of the vehicle. It appears that my new wheels are not thick enough to allow the lugnuts to tighten all the way down and press against the hubs. The lugnuts are as tight as I can get them but if I press the brake drum I can hear it wiggle and make the clunking noise I have been hearing. Can I just get some washers to place behind the wheel to bring it out a bit?
#42
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Year: 1996
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Do the brake drums sit on the wheel bearings? I could put my finger on the edge of the brake drum and when I would press on it towards the outside of the vehicle there would be play causing the clunking noise.
#43
Beach Bum
The drums sit only on the end plate of axle shaft.
I have heard of steel wheels being too thin to use stock acorn lug nuts. Would require open ended or deeper lug nuts.
Make sure that is the issue first. Take a wheel off, install lug nut on axle as far as it will go without forcing it. Measure the remaining gap and compare with wheel thickness.
Last edited by SteveMongr; 07-08-2014 at 03:12 PM.
#44
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#45
Beach Bum
Not noticeable on speed bumps. If there is up/down movement of axle, that would cause a clunk, caused by bad bearing. But the bearing should be growling also.
Have you pulled the drums and inspected the brakes?
Have you pulled the drums and inspected the brakes?