N2Deep

Ok so I've been having a problem with my 88 XJ Cherokee stalling when I come to a stop at a light or slowing to make a sharp turn. The lights, radio, etc stay on but the RPM's just drop and the engine just dies. The steering gets incredibly stiff and the brakes need pressed as hard as possible to come to a complete stop. I had my aux radiator fan on a house switch and just rewired that into a proper relay and toggle switch. When I test drove it today it stalled on me again but not as viciously after doing the rewiring. Research I've done so far says it may be an EGR going bad or some contact points in the CPU. Any ideas? Alternator tested good and passed multiple times at 100 Amps, new fuel pressure regulator (old one was leaking), and all grounds cleaned and checked. I'm about at a loss and don't want to just start throwing money at it to fix it.

P.S.
Starts right after it stalls, also RPM's are high(1000-1100) in Park and Neutral but sit about 600-750 when in Drive or Reverse during idle.

Radi

I'd check for vacuum leaks (check the intake bolts too), MAP sensor plumbing and the IAC valve.

cruiser54

Ever clean the throttle body and adjust the TPS?

Tips 11 and 8.

How's the tune up parts?

Ever do Tips 1 through 5 with no shortcuts?

The vacuum tube radi mentions is important also.

There is no silver bullet cure here. You have to make sure what's NOT the issue by diving in.

N2Deep

I put in a brand new vacuum harness maybe maybe 3 months ago and rechecked all the connections on it. So no vacuum leaks, intake manifold hasbeen taken out and disassembled cleaned and reinstalled as spotlessly clean as possible. Full tune-up about a year ago: sparks, wires, distributor cap, filters, etc.

cruiser54

That tube Radi and myself are trying so hard to point you to, is no longer available. It doesn't come with any harnesses.

Do the Tips........

BimmerJeeper

If you want to replace that vacuum tube, what do you buy?

N2Deep

I'll have to check the hose and try and flush it tomorrow, but its connected both on both ends, TPS is in the best position I've found for it from trial and error. Unfortunately that seems to be cranked as far as it can be, with the connection as high as it will go counter clockwise. I've been in the hood doing various wiring for off-road lights and recovering the harnesses with new plastic since the original wire covers were old and breaking away anyways so I've been pouring through the electrical connections pulling each one out using electrical connection cleaner and making sure every one is seated firmly and securely. Also I replaced the IAC maybe 2 months ago with a new one.

Radi

You can buy generic vacuum tubing and elbows, just match up the size.

cruiser54

Perhaps the tang on the TPS is on the wrong side of the linkage?

It's bad?

Test it on the Engine side per my instructions.

And, it's all a waste of time if you've never done the Tips I suggested...........

DFlintstone

I met a fellow at a yard sale who's jeep would stall at every stop. Inside three minutes, I measured .1 AC volts from his CPS. So easy to check in a couple of minutes.

AC voltage CPS test; Small clips on the meter leads really helps. You need contact with those little pins while it cranks, maybe get someone to help.
#1 Unplug the connector at the back of the manifold with wires going down to the bell-housing/cps. (it's a three wire plug, with only two wires)
#2 Probe the two wires to the cps with the digital meter set on AC volts, a 200 scale on mine. Yours meter may have a lower 2 Volt, or “auto range”.
#3 Crank the engine and note the voltage. (jump it if your battery is low). .35 is minimum, .4 to .8 is more like it.

BimmerJeeper

Where are the list of tips?

DFlintstone

It's in both cruiser's, and my, sig . https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cru...x-tips-153657/