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GSXR_Mike 04-26-2010 09:10 PM


Originally Posted by Defiance665 (Post 519572)
angle grinder with lots of cutoff wheels, drill, pop rivets, silicone caulk, rustproof bedliner/paint

Exactly what I was thinking. I have 3 half dollar sized holes on the transmission/drive shaft tunnel. And a few spots that have bubbles.
I figured it would be best to rid myself of any possible problem areas.

fantic238 04-27-2010 02:43 AM


Originally Posted by FUnkman1025 (Post 519365)
This guy came out of no were, I am definitely gonna try the POR-15 fiberglass method. :hammer:

Woow.. That's a patch up work for sure...

darkfalcon9112 04-27-2010 06:03 AM


Originally Posted by Defiance665 (Post 519198)
Mine doesnt have blowby, I pulled the fill cap while it was running to check..

Good man.

Phil when i took mine off i wasnt sure what i was doing at first the way i did it though and worked like a champ. (P.s. thought i had blow by too before this.) ran gas through rear ccv orafice attached to valve over and through tube while off jeep off course. Then UnBolted what i thought was some kind of valve then found out that its the ccv orafice on the Intake manifold. I thought it was a valve when in fact it is just a calculated orafice :). So cleaned it nice and slow.... p.s. Its a hole straight through on mine and prob yours so skinny screw driver or scribe work wonders then ran cleaner through it. HOLY CRUD when i put it back on it was like a brand new J**P. I did eventually hang my head low and buy the ccv on the valve cover and tube from dealer and that even made it better that back tube is really important also my gas milage went up after that and response.

If you have any questions regarding this anyone just ask me i will take it off and take pictures or show in tech breakdown what it is!

fantic238 04-27-2010 06:54 AM

Blow-by occours only at highway speeds and at elevated torque requests. If you have more than 150/200 k miles you have blow-by. You can check this very easy, have someone give gas in D with brake and hand brake applied. You unplug the breather tube and if you have something coming out of it (exhaust, air, oil etc.) you have blow-by.

darkfalcon9112 04-27-2010 07:12 AM


Originally Posted by fantic238 (Post 519967)
Blow-by occours only at highway speeds and at elevated torque requests. If you have more than 150/200 k miles you have blow-by. You can check this very easy, have someone give gas in D with brake and hand brake applied. You unplug the breather tube and if you have something coming out of it (exhaust, air, oil etc.) you have blow-by.

Very useful Info fantic thank you very much i did not know it was that easy to check you are talking front tube right???

fantic238 04-27-2010 07:18 AM

Yes the front one. If you just remove the filling cap like Dylan did you won't have anything coming out at idle. Even if you give some gas, won't blow. You need high torque condtion.

offroadnut36 04-27-2010 08:37 AM


Originally Posted by darkfalcon9112 (Post 519949)
Good man.

Phil when i took mine off i wasnt sure what i was doing at first the way i did it though and worked like a champ. (P.s. thought i had blow by too before this.) ran gas through rear ccv orafice attached to valve over and through tube while off jeep off course. Then UnBolted what i thought was some kind of valve then found out that its the ccv orafice on the Intake manifold. I thought it was a valve when in fact it is just a calculated orafice :). So cleaned it nice and slow.... p.s. Its a hole straight through on mine and prob yours so skinny screw driver or scribe work wonders then ran cleaner through it. HOLY CRUD when i put it back on it was like a brand new J**P. I did eventually hang my head low and buy the ccv on the valve cover and tube from dealer and that even made it better that back tube is really important also my gas milage went up after that and response.

If you have any questions regarding this anyone just ask me i will take it off and take pictures or show in tech breakdown what it is!

Thanks Rich!

darkfalcon9112 04-27-2010 09:05 AM


Originally Posted by offroadnut36 (Post 520027)
Thanks Rich!

YEAH no worrys it definately fixed my problem now with my homemade 1/2 cold air intake i need to re route it and put it back into the intake system to complete the cycle.

builtnotbought89' 04-27-2010 09:24 AM

Hove you guys tried using 1 of the old blow by breather valves like on the old 350 small blocks???

Allusion 04-27-2010 09:32 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Hi, im installing my first lift. its a 4.5" RC. the front is done and im in the middle of doing the rear and i ran into two problems.

1. the front passenger side leaf bolt wont come out. i unscrewed it untill almost about where the threads are showing and it wont come out anymore. it just spinns in place. my angle grinder isnt big enough to fit in there with out hitting edges. i tryed banging it out and useing heat and nothin worked so far. any suggestions?
Attachment 17805

2. trying to lower my axle so i can atleast put in the one leaf spring i have off. i remembered i had to extend my brake lines with that bracket that comes with the kit. i got under there and looked and so far the origional bracket is welded on, theres a nut or fastener i cant really tell what it is, its all rusted together. i have no idea how to get it off.
Attachment 17806

any suggestions?

darkfalcon9112 04-27-2010 09:55 AM

For the Bolt is the only thing i can offer right now. If you have one laying around use a tie rod or ball joint fork and bang it out if it is spinning it is out usually. If you have heat use it on spring to try and expand metal. You mayhave to WHILE ON STAND OR AT LEAST ABOVE STANDS. Jack the axel back up so as to move the spring and take tension off then try to get it out.

I hope this helps

fantic238 04-27-2010 10:13 AM

Since the head of the bolt is already out you just need to force it a little more. If you have a chain you can hook up the bolt and pull it with a weight. A slide hammer would be better though.
That fastener is a c clip that you have to pull to free the line from the bracket.

Allusion 04-27-2010 10:16 AM


Originally Posted by fantic238 (Post 520118)
Since the head of the bolt is already out you just need to force it a little more. If you have a chain you can hook up the bolt and pull it with a weight. A slide hammer would be better though.
That fastener is a c clip that you have to pull to free the line from the bracket.

i never thought of a slide hammer, nor do i have one but i can try to jerryrig one up. and as for the clip it just slides out with some force? sounds better then what i tryed doing..
thanks man (:

darkfalcon9112 04-27-2010 10:39 AM


Originally Posted by builtnotbought89' (Post 520080)
Hove you guys tried using 1 of the old blow by breather valves like on the old 350 small blocks???

No but wouldnt that be too restrictive?


Originally Posted by fantic238 (Post 520118)
Since the head of the bolt is already out you just need to force it a little more. If you have a chain you can hook up the bolt and pull it with a weight. A slide hammer would be better though.
That fastener is a c clip that you have to pull to free the line from the bracket.

X2

goldenlandscaping 04-27-2010 03:00 PM

Rough shift
 
When I am driving and stop at a redlight, stop light w/e and then take of it will rev then shift kinda rough does anyone have an idea about this?
and this thread is a great idea will help prevent useless threads that can be answered once then done :thumbup:


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