Noah Higa

I think that I found the culprit. While my car was on the list, we had it running to see if we can find with the leak was coming from. The leak was ending at the bottom of my transmission, so we followed the week up to the top. We ended up finding a loose bolt at the top of the bell housing unit. If it was not for the shifter housing unit behind it, but would have fallen out. with this boat being all the way out, it caused a lot of vibration which we might sink be the cause of the week. We are currently working on it, I will keep you guys updated!

Noah Higa

Here’s the bolt

Robert Kelly

My Jeep hesitates when shifting into last gear (42mph) and stops hesitatiing at 50 mph. Also, at idle, the engine hesitation is present. After 5 miles or so, all hesitation stops and the Jeep rides normal.

Is this a fuel pump or injector issue or something else?

Thanks,
Robert K.

Basslicks

Hmmmmm.... if that's the case, you may want to really inspect that front seal. Might've been damaged.

What's your fuel pressure at the rail?

Noah Higa

My engine check light came on after i tightened the bolt up. the code is p0740, which came out to be the torque converter:/
should i replace the converter, or just go to the junk yard and pull a trans and replace the whole thing?

Basslicks

If your transmission was shifting good, I wouldn't replace it. As far as the torque converter goes, was it leaking? Was there no power during acceleration? Thought we were chasing down a leak here, not a performance problem.

Robert Kelly

I do not know the fuel pressure (or how to check it), but the fuel and speedometer gages jump around until the engine is warmed up.
Robert K.

Noah Higa

So i’m still not 100% sure where the leak came from. It’s shifting fine, no slipping. I also have power when accelerating. The times that the fluid really started to leak when i was on the expressway. Because it only happened when driving 70mph, could that mean something? After fighting the bolt. i drove it around town (probably 20miles. never went over 50mph). i went over to a buddies house, after parked i stuck a piece of cardboard under the trans pan area to see if there was any leakage. About 3 hrs later, i left his house and checked the cardboard. There was NO leakage, but about 5 mins into the drive my engine check light popped back on. Checked the fluid level when i got home (in netrual, level ground), and the level was perfect, 0 leaking.

Noah Higa

.

Ethan94

So the lead up to the problem, took my 87 xj to Walmart for an oil change (cost the same as doing it myself, will just do it myself from now on. But had to shop anyway They put the wrong filter on and it dumped out jumping the starter) started up fine no problems. When the guy was done and tried starting it. Nothing. Didn't try turning over or click at all. I can jump the starter and it starts just fine. Which would mean the starter is fine right? And there is power going to it from the battery, correct? So what should I check/try to get it to start when I turn the key?

i was told by a mechanic that it was either a bad starter or battery related issue, that maybe the cables were bad. But if the starter can be jumped, wouldn't that not be the issue. (Unrelated note they tried helping push starting didn't work then they walked away like sorry it's your problem now. Good luck fixing it yourself)

Basslicks

You'll need to get a fuel pressure tester first. You can buy one for a reasonable price at most auto parts stores or you can rent one (you'll still pay full price for it, but once you're done with it they allow you to return it with the receipt for a full refund)... it's best to keep one on hand though. Look for a schrader valve on the fuel rail. Make sure the engine is off, unscrew the cap from the schrader valve, the get a rag and a screw driver and carefully place the tip of the screwdriver on the needle of the valve. Wrap the rag around the valve and press in with the screwdriver to bleed off any residual pressure. Gas may come out at this point - this is why you have the rag... to catch any of that fuel.

Screw on the fuel pressure tester hose and turn the key. The dial should pump up to about 49 PSI +/- 5 psi on your year. The pressure shouldn't immediately start bleeding off either. Start the Jeep and see if the pressure remains the same. With the Jeep off, it should take several hours for the gauge to drop back to zero pressure. If the check valve in the fuel pump is still in good working order, it may not bleed off at all.

As far as the gauge issue... sounds like you have some electrical gremlins. See below for information on how to refresh your grounds.

If you have one, it will be in the engine compartment on the driver's side fender. Either up near the brake booster or down by the air filter.

As far as what else you should check, I would perform a full ground refresh. Everything under the engine bay. There's a ground at the passenger's side fenderwall next to the battery, one on the starter, one on the engine block, and one at the alternator. Pull them off one at a time, get a wire brush or some sand paper and shine up the metal on both surfaces. Apply some dielectric grease on the ground point and reattach the terminal. Make sure it's good and tight, but don't overtorque it and strip the nut or lug.

I wouldn't think a torque converter replacement is necessary under those conditions. Sounds like it's running and driving well.

Someone else may want to chime in that knows about the OBDII Jeeps for that diagnostic code. I haven't had much experience with OBDII so it's beyond my expertise.

If it's not leaking anymore, the seal should be fine. I would keep the cardboard under the jeep to monitor drips though just to be sure. Also go ahead and clean off the underside of the motor and trans pans and dry them off real good to help you monitor for leaks as well.

DucMan

sounds like starter solinoid is good..ck. the solinoid input ( where you are jumping it..the small wire) if it has a good connection go to the starter relay and "ing. fuse" and make sure you have output signal..if fuse is good remove cover from relay and pinch it closed while checking voltage at starter small wire..if all that's good then you are losing ground signal to relay from ing. switch..ck. Ing. switch connections at electrical part of Ing. switch and harness connectors..should show up issue at one of these areas..keep your eyes open for anything that looks "strange" as issue began with other fellow changing oil..all this should be done after completely cleaning Batt. Terminals of course...XJ's have real Gremlin Batt. Terminals..

DucMan

​​​Tran..It might help to do a tran. filter service watching for shinny sparkles in old fluid..might be sticking mid range valve body check ball or solinoid issue causing "over pressure" condition at high speeds causing seal leaks as it is designed to do. If Tran. service doesn't help or causes it to start slipping after "service" you may have "lunched" Tran.and need a more thorough diagnosis by Mechanic.

Ethan94

Thanks for the help. When I posted it was night, popped the hood today with the sunlight, crawled up and checked the connections. Followed the little green wire you talked about... one was loose and one was off. I guess one of the hoses that attaches behind the fan pulley knocked them loose/off. Fires right up now

craigjacob1

Is more better?