CR-Snow

i think you’re good man. Mine doesn’t do the click like you’re talking about either. It threw me off the first few times as well.

SatiricalHen

I would just get a replacement. I got a replacement and I believe it was $30 and came with a new bracket with a rubber grommet. The line is already depressurized since there is a hole in it. I tried a temporary fix, but it ended up leaking again.

Basslicks

I'm not an OBDII expert, but I believe the answer is yes to the catalytic code. I know when you un plug the o2 sensor on them, they'll go into closed-loop because it doesnt' detect a signal. Sends it to default fuel trims and starts to run really rich just to stay running.... of course that causes a drop in MPG.

All that being said, what size tires and gears are you running? My '92 with 33's and 3.55s gets about 12mpg

CR-Snow

So it’s been a busy summer and fall and I’ve watched my fuel economy drop. 01xj. Went from 31’s and 3.55’s to 33’s and 4:56’s, flat flares and a roof rack with a spare. Oh and that Cat code and misfire from heat soaking. I went from 17mpg to 10. I had the big tires on with stock gears for a bit. It was a turd in town but I only lost a single mpg. But when I put the gears in and the tire on the roof it went down quick. But that cat code also popped around that time. I can literally feel it run different when the code pops. If I reset the computer it runs so smooth.

So ive decided to replace the pre cats and all my 02’s. And see where that gets me. I was just hoping to get some confirmation that I’m running the closed loop with those codes present.

Basslicks

Yeah I think you're on the right track, man.

NewKindOfClown

*Open loop

Closed loop is when it's using sensor input

Basslicks

D'oh! Thank you... I knew what I meant

WonderBread

first off I checked the tires they seem to have less then 1 inch spacing on the back at least the tires I’m running are duelly brisgeston 255/70/18 for 18”rims and tires for free from my boss he said they were 5x4.5 well they aren’t so I’m gonna buy 2inch adapter 5x5 since the rims are 5x5 but I really don’t want to cut my fenders I don’t mind doing it and who knows I’ll probably just do it this Saturday or at least when I get my adapter in I’m curious when I trim my fenders am I able to remount my fender flares? Also I’m having issues with my speedo not working 2000 xj 4.0 if I could be send to a link but I’m mainly curious about my fender flares

jdpitre89

I am about 85% through an engine swap in my 98 XJ. While I had the new to me motor on a stand, I took care of all of the good stuff while it was accessible. When I did my freeze plugs, I tried to look up the slightly larger plug (I later discovered why it wasn't brass) behind the camshaft at the rear of the block....couldn't find any literature online, FSM, or Chilton. I knew it was proximal to my camshaft, so I was gently when I tapped the plug, although I did end up making light contact with the rectangular bar that is centered at the back of the camshaft. I later found one article stating the sketchyness of the situation and how you don't want to impact the camshaft at all, which is why there are other methods for removing this plug in the rare case it actually needs replaced.

A friend of mine was able to chime in soon enough to tell me to be careful not to tap the replacement plug in too far, for obvious reasons. I used gasket shellac for all plugs including the cam plugs. I started by tapping it in flush with a 2x4 and once it was evenly seated, I lightly tapped around the edges until it was seated perfectly flush with the back of the block, and would be hesitant to seat it any further.

Can anyone weigh in on my situation? The likeliness that I damaged anything? My engine is already mechanically timed and I didnt notice anything unusual when I cranked the motor over. My distributor rotor turned and aligned at #1 at TDC....

SteveMongr

Installing a freeze plug by the edges can easily distort it. That edge/lip is what seals to the block. Best to use a socket that fits inside the plug (see picture) or the tool made for freeze plugs.

jdpitre89

I used a socket to seat it about 60% of the way. To avoid over inserting the plug, a had to use a method that allowed more control. I am confident I got a good fit and didn't seat the plug against the back of the camshaft.

I am just surprised that there isn't any write-ups on that plug.

jdpitre89

Also, when I finished the plug was flush with the block, exactly like the photo you shared. I evenly/lightly taped around the edges to seat it in very small increments. I didn't bind it up. I will probably get some help getting a nice sealing surface from the gasket shellac as well...

Thank you for your response.

Noah Higa

Recently purchased a 2000 cherokee. After having some fun in the snow yesterday, i was driving home on the expressway and my trans started slipping. Next thing i know i smell something (ATF fluid dripping on my exhaust) burning and i immediately pull over and call a buddy to tow me back to my house. After getting to the house, i pull my trans fluid dip stick and it was dry as ****. I ran up to my local auto parts store and put in about 3.5 quarts of atf. My buddy suggest i change my trans pan gasket because thats where he THOUGHT the leak was. Today, we change out the gasket, put a new one in as well as new ATF. On my drive home, i notice a large smoke trail coming from my exhaust. After i pull over (on the express way again, fml) i look under the car and sure enough ATF is dripping at a constant rate. My car is currently at my high school, i’m gonna put it up on the lift tomorrow and have my auto teacher have my teacher see what tf is going on. My buddy thinks i blew a trans line.

I would greatly appreciate any thoughts on where i might be leaking all the fluid from. if anyone has had this issue please message me. I know it’s hard to diagnose the issue without looking at the vehicle but hopefully i put enough info ^.
Thanks y’all!

Basslicks

Being as the exhaust runs close to the transmission from the front of the transmission to the rear of the transmission, your problem could be anything from the front seal, to the trans line clips, trans lines themselves, or the transmission's rear output seal. You'll be able to tell more once you get it on the lift. My money is on either the front seal or the transmission line clips where it enters the transmission.

Were you able to tell where on the exhaust that the transmission fluid was leaking? Should be visible on your exhaust pipe.

SteveMongr

Also check cooler lines that run along passenger side of oil pan. The upper control arm can pinch them against oil pan bolts and kink or crack the metal tubing. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/che...8/#post3204849