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Old 09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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Old 11-30-2017, 12:00 AM
  #59296  
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Originally Posted by RocketMouse
Do you hear an audible "click" sound at all? Could have a bad lead at/near the starter or ignition switch.... or most commonly, just worn out contacts in the starter itself.
Since all other components are working correctly in the accessory position in the "on" position in the ignition.
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Simplest test first:
Locate the PDC (fuse box) under the hood. Swap the Starter Relay for another relay of the same type that runs something non-critical (such as the A/C, if it's the same style relay). Try again.

This free test will determine whether or not the relay has failed, which would the cheapest possible fix.
Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
Sounds like over time your alternator might not be charging long enough each time to keep up with the additional load you added, and it is slowly running down the battery because it isn't getting fully charged again each time you use it?
These are all great suggestions, but I would've told him to try and start it in neutral first, or at least make sure the gear shift is all the way in park.
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Old 12-01-2017, 10:28 AM
  #59297  
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Howdy from Canada

Ok i got a Fuel Tank Question for my 1996 Cherokee HO SPort i recently bought...
trying to change out the tank got it out but looking at it its a steel metal tank any ideas or upgrades to a different tank maybe a plastic one that will swap over
from a junk yard from newer cherokee?
if so what years am i looking for at the wrecker?
also the pump wiring is the same ?ect or can i just use my old pump and sending unit in the possible plastic tank?
thanks

Last edited by JeepViking; 12-01-2017 at 10:30 AM.
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Old 12-02-2017, 08:13 PM
  #59298  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
You might would want to post up a picture of your diff covers here and we can help confirm it
here are her pics of my front and rear diffs
Attached Thumbnails XJ Ask the Question Thread-20171202_0956311.jpg   XJ Ask the Question Thread-20171202_0956581.jpg  
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Old 12-02-2017, 08:21 PM
  #59299  
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Yep. That’s d30 front and a d44 rear
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Old 12-04-2017, 04:03 PM
  #59300  
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So here is something I am trying to figure out. The shot below of the hatch latch is supposedly from a '98 Grand Cherokee Limited. I came across this just poking around. As best I can tell it is the same as for a '97 and up XJ. What is with the wiring?
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:18 PM
  #59301  
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Default LED headlight

New the Jeep forum. Recently purchased a 2000 cherokee and would like to upgrade my headlights. Can y’all throw me some solid LED headlights i can look into, thanks!
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:27 PM
  #59302  
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Originally Posted by Noah Higa
New the Jeep forum. Recently purchased a 2000 cherokee and would like to upgrade my headlights. Can y’all throw me some solid LED headlights i can look into, thanks!
trucklite and jw speaker.
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:26 PM
  #59303  
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New to the forum. Ive been messing with my Cherokee for a week or so now and have had no progress. Its a 1989 with a 1991 HO swapped in by previous owner. Has '89 tranny and wiring but the guy did a hack job. The current issue is that it wont crank. Sounds like the bendix is coming out but not meshing with the teeth. Ive replaced the battery, starter, and starter relay. No luck so far but hoping to find some help on here. Thanks in advance!
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:27 PM
  #59304  
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I have a 2000 XJ4x4. Pretty bad vibration at about 45mph and oil coming from driver side rear wheel around drum. Any suggestions?

Last edited by Sphillips21; 12-04-2017 at 10:29 PM.
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Old 12-05-2017, 03:58 AM
  #59305  
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Originally Posted by JeepViking
Howdy from Canada

Ok i got a Fuel Tank Question for my 1996 Cherokee HO SPort i recently bought...
trying to change out the tank got it out but looking at it its a steel metal tank any ideas or upgrades to a different tank maybe a plastic one that will swap over
from a junk yard from newer cherokee?
if so what years am i looking for at the wrecker?
also the pump wiring is the same ?ect or can i just use my old pump and sending unit in the possible plastic tank?
thanks
96's fuel rail is a returnless rail, so you should be able to put the tank from a 97+ into it. You'll need a new fuel pump (97+) though because the 96's fuel pump is different. Might have to splice on the new wiring harness for the new pump too... I don't believe the connectors are the same. If you're going to do this though, I'd recommend getting AT LEAST a metal OEM gas tank skid to avoid ripping open the poly gas tank on say a rock or anything else you may happen to drag it over.

Any particular reason why you're considering such a swap?

Originally Posted by Sphillips21
I have a 2000 XJ4x4. Pretty bad vibration at about 45mph and oil coming from driver side rear wheel around drum. Any suggestions?
Jack both wheels off the ground, pull the driver's side wheel and drum off and have someone rotate the axle while you watch the axleshaft flange. It's possible you have a bent axleshaft.

Last edited by Basslicks; 12-05-2017 at 04:02 AM.
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Old 12-05-2017, 04:00 AM
  #59306  
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Originally Posted by Sphillips21
I have a 2000 XJ4x4. Pretty bad vibration at about 45mph and oil coming from driver side rear wheel around drum. Any suggestions?
smell the fluid and find out if it is gear oil or brake fluid. Could even be a bent rim.

Last edited by kengofff; 12-05-2017 at 04:12 AM.
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Old 12-07-2017, 09:36 PM
  #59307  
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Default 2000 XJ Coil Pack Install Question

After a top end rebuild I am reinstalling the coil pack on a 2000 Cherokee 4.0 (no distributor or plug wires). When mounting the coil pack rail onto the spark plugs should you feel a click when the electrical contact inside each boot engages the top of a spark plug? Or do the electrodes inside the boots just set up against the top of the plugs? It seems that the metal furls for the coil pack retaining bolts bottom out against the head, indicating full engagement, but I had no indication that the boots were fully seated to the plugs. I have verified that all boots are aligned properly over the plugs and a firm push in the coil pack boot areas didn’t result in further movement. Thanks.
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Old 12-08-2017, 02:25 AM
  #59308  
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Default Fuel line and pinhole leaks question

Welp. Stupid metal bracket on the intake screwed up the fuel line and now have pinhole leaks. Question is: Can I just disconnect the fuel pump from the fuse box, depressurize, cut the fuel line, and splice it with some high pressure hose? I was reading the guide for replacing the whole thing (https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/le...nt-fix-170244/) with hose, but I don't really want to for now.
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Old 12-08-2017, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by HyenaXJ
Welp. Stupid metal bracket on the intake screwed up the fuel line and now have pinhole leaks. Question is: Can I just disconnect the fuel pump from the fuse box, depressurize, cut the fuel line, and splice it with some high pressure hose? I was reading the guide for replacing the whole thing (https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/le...nt-fix-170244/) with hose, but I don't really want to for now.
I wonder if you could take it apart and solder it with the proper flux and solder? It could probably use a cleaning out anyways. The first time I took mine all apart the rail galley was filled at least a 1/4 full of junk and about to start plugging injectors.
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Old 12-10-2017, 03:38 PM
  #59310  
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Quick question: 2001 xj 4.0 CA emissions

Does the computer go into a closed loop fuel map when a misfire code is present? What about a catalytic converter out of efficiency code?

I’ve had an intermittent cat code that lately has been persistent and my mpg is at like 10.

Just wondering if either of these codes forces the computer into the “safe” fuel maps instead of the open fuel maps using the 02 sensors.
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