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10-19-2017, 11:38 AM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Anyone have that outline of the different mods that need to happen with the various height of lift applied? I think it's cruisers maybe?
Thanks!
Thanks!
10-19-2017, 12:00 PM
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
10-19-2017, 12:03 PM
10-19-2017, 12:37 PM
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'd be trying to find out why it overheats so much.
Does it have A/C? If it does, do you have the second aux. fan on the radiator? Do it turn on when you turn on the A/C?
I'm in a lot hotter climate than you are, and if mine starts to overheat at all, it's because something is up with that aux. electric fan.
As for the heat guage, I agree with swapping the dash for one with gauges.
Does it have A/C? If it does, do you have the second aux. fan on the radiator? Do it turn on when you turn on the A/C?
I'm in a lot hotter climate than you are, and if mine starts to overheat at all, it's because something is up with that aux. electric fan.
As for the heat guage, I agree with swapping the dash for one with gauges.
This Jeep only gets used once in a blue moon, for about a 15 mile round trip. My guess is maybe that it usually doesn't heat up enough to get the coolant moving enough and that it gets all sludged up, which ruins radiators. (have had to get new ones put one 2x in the last 5 years)
I'd LIKE to be able to drive it in heavy bumper to bumper traffic with the AC blasting, but I don't trust it. But! after the new cap and thermostat, with this new radiator, maybe it won't be over-heating at all. Maybe it's just having that red light glowing makes me nervous.
The last over-heating "event" happened as the result of a loose radiator cap - it boiled over through there.
So I have a new cap, and a new thermostat ordered. Will be installing that myself.
As far as swapping the gauge panel for a used factory one with an actual temp gauge - well I agree that would be best, but that's beyond my skill ability, so I'd have to locate a mechanic that will commit to doing the job. I watched some Youtube videos last night about installing a mechanical gauge - I think I might be able to do that.
thanks!
10-19-2017, 01:00 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
For what it's worth, I think upgrading the factory gauges is easier than installing an aftermarket gauge. If nothing else, simply because you don't have to make any decisions with the factory gauges.
Find one from an acceptable donor model.
Pull the dash (Phillips head screws)
Document your mileage.
Unplug your cluster and plug in the new one.
Document your mileage.
Unscrew the oil sensor and the coolant sensor.
Screw in the new oil pressure sending unit and coolant temperature sending unit.
Done
Find one from an acceptable donor model.
Pull the dash (Phillips head screws)
Document your mileage.
Unplug your cluster and plug in the new one.
Document your mileage.
Unscrew the oil sensor and the coolant sensor.
Screw in the new oil pressure sending unit and coolant temperature sending unit.
Done
10-19-2017, 01:10 PM
CF Veteran
+ before you install the new cluster don't forget to remove the "when to shift" bulb if the cluster is from a std trans XJ and yours is an auto.
10-19-2017, 01:56 PM
CF Veteran
Either of these will get you around 1.5":
These will add 0-3/4" lift:
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/prod...t-shackle.html
Also here:
https://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf...kee_s/1953.htm
These will add 0-3/4" lift:
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/prod...t-shackle.html
Also here:
https://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf...kee_s/1953.htm
Last edited by EZEARL; 10-19-2017 at 02:02 PM.
10-19-2017, 06:29 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Tampa, FL
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Leak down testing... diagnosis?
Still chasing hard starts. Takes 5+ key cycles to start when cold, 3+ when warm.
Finally got a fuel pressure tester. Here’s what I know (96 4.0 auto with in-tank regulator):
Warm engine, key to ON: pressure reads about 52 psi.
Engine running: needle shakes, but center of where it’s shaking reads about 55.
Engine off. Pressure starts dropping immediately
After 10 minutes: 35
After 20 minutes: 25
Restarted and let it idle a few minutes. Then shut off and immediately clamped the rubber fuel line between the tank and the filter. Weirdly, pressure dropped off even faster:
10 minutes: 25
20 minutes: 18
I suppose the clamp may not be completely stopping flow, but still this suggests to me that the problem is not in the tank, but elsewhere. I can not see or smell any gas anywhere along the lines where I can see. Does this mean the most likely culprit is leaky injectors? I’m praying everything is okay in the tank, as having already replaced the pump once and the regulator twice, I’m not sure what else to do in there.
Have replaced TPS, IAC and temp. sensor, and cleaned throttle body. Battery, plugs, wires, rotor and cap all good. I haven’t tackled the coil, but not sure this sounds like a coil problem. No drivability issues after start... smooth idle, plenty of power.
Finally got a fuel pressure tester. Here’s what I know (96 4.0 auto with in-tank regulator):
Warm engine, key to ON: pressure reads about 52 psi.
Engine running: needle shakes, but center of where it’s shaking reads about 55.
Engine off. Pressure starts dropping immediately
After 10 minutes: 35
After 20 minutes: 25
Restarted and let it idle a few minutes. Then shut off and immediately clamped the rubber fuel line between the tank and the filter. Weirdly, pressure dropped off even faster:
10 minutes: 25
20 minutes: 18
I suppose the clamp may not be completely stopping flow, but still this suggests to me that the problem is not in the tank, but elsewhere. I can not see or smell any gas anywhere along the lines where I can see. Does this mean the most likely culprit is leaky injectors? I’m praying everything is okay in the tank, as having already replaced the pump once and the regulator twice, I’m not sure what else to do in there.
Have replaced TPS, IAC and temp. sensor, and cleaned throttle body. Battery, plugs, wires, rotor and cap all good. I haven’t tackled the coil, but not sure this sounds like a coil problem. No drivability issues after start... smooth idle, plenty of power.
10-19-2017, 11:04 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
This is my first US car... (being a European)
We do not have vacuum-stuff for stuff what can be solved by simple links...
So, I thought, that 2.1D 1990 XJ will be a simple tractor in comparison with other cars... When I eliminated the failing CAD system I removed meters of vacuum tubes and connectors, and valves, and tidbits "I don't even know what good for"s. The problem is, that now I realized, that winter is coming and heater is stuck on defrost.
which is normal, having no vacuum any more in the bloody system.
Can anyone tell me where vacuum goes into the ventilation system? I seem to have 2 tubes right next to heater core coolant pipes, so I'm guessing they are those. one black one pink.
and please, do tell me what looking things I need to connect.
Never dealt with vacuum before, either simple links or electric motors controlled the things. So, after the break booster what comes?
I have there a T junction (looks like more than a simple T... some kind of a valve...) that feeds the vacuum tank... there is another T what was feeding the system... Do I just connect that to the black or... to the pink...??
We do not have vacuum-stuff for stuff what can be solved by simple links...
So, I thought, that 2.1D 1990 XJ will be a simple tractor in comparison with other cars... When I eliminated the failing CAD system I removed meters of vacuum tubes and connectors, and valves, and tidbits "I don't even know what good for"s. The problem is, that now I realized, that winter is coming and heater is stuck on defrost.
which is normal, having no vacuum any more in the bloody system.
Can anyone tell me where vacuum goes into the ventilation system? I seem to have 2 tubes right next to heater core coolant pipes, so I'm guessing they are those. one black one pink.
and please, do tell me what looking things I need to connect.
Never dealt with vacuum before, either simple links or electric motors controlled the things. So, after the break booster what comes?
I have there a T junction (looks like more than a simple T... some kind of a valve...) that feeds the vacuum tank... there is another T what was feeding the system... Do I just connect that to the black or... to the pink...??
10-19-2017, 11:18 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Lancaster Pa
Posts: 59
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Still chasing hard starts. Takes 5+ key cycles to start when cold, 3+ when warm.
Finally got a fuel pressure tester. Here’s what I know (96 4.0 auto with in-tank regulator):
Warm engine, key to ON: pressure reads about 52 psi.
Engine running: needle shakes, but center of where it’s shaking reads about 55.
Engine off. Pressure starts dropping immediately
After 10 minutes: 35
After 20 minutes: 25
Restarted and let it idle a few minutes. Then shut off and immediately clamped the rubber fuel line between the tank and the filter. Weirdly, pressure dropped off even faster:
10 minutes: 25
20 minutes: 18
I suppose the clamp may not be completely stopping flow, but still this suggests to me that the problem is not in the tank, but elsewhere. I can not see or smell any gas anywhere along the lines where I can see. Does this mean the most likely culprit is leaky injectors? I’m praying everything is okay in the tank, as having already replaced the pump once and the regulator twice, I’m not sure what else to do in there.
Have replaced TPS, IAC and temp. sensor, and cleaned throttle body. Battery, plugs, wires, rotor and cap all good. I haven’t tackled the coil, but not sure this sounds like a coil problem. No drivability issues after start... smooth idle, plenty of power.
Finally got a fuel pressure tester. Here’s what I know (96 4.0 auto with in-tank regulator):
Warm engine, key to ON: pressure reads about 52 psi.
Engine running: needle shakes, but center of where it’s shaking reads about 55.
Engine off. Pressure starts dropping immediately
After 10 minutes: 35
After 20 minutes: 25
Restarted and let it idle a few minutes. Then shut off and immediately clamped the rubber fuel line between the tank and the filter. Weirdly, pressure dropped off even faster:
10 minutes: 25
20 minutes: 18
I suppose the clamp may not be completely stopping flow, but still this suggests to me that the problem is not in the tank, but elsewhere. I can not see or smell any gas anywhere along the lines where I can see. Does this mean the most likely culprit is leaky injectors? I’m praying everything is okay in the tank, as having already replaced the pump once and the regulator twice, I’m not sure what else to do in there.
Have replaced TPS, IAC and temp. sensor, and cleaned throttle body. Battery, plugs, wires, rotor and cap all good. I haven’t tackled the coil, but not sure this sounds like a coil problem. No drivability issues after start... smooth idle, plenty of power.
10-20-2017, 07:44 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,875
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
10-20-2017, 08:18 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Quebec
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
my throttle valve cable (or kick down cable) is stuck. i tried soaking it without any luck. there are no jeeps at the yard, so I'm hesitant to force it.
i tried prying the metal clip underneath but it's frozen solid. anybody experienced something similar?
i tried prying the metal clip underneath but it's frozen solid. anybody experienced something similar?