cruiser54

XJ Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange.

2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange.

XJ/ZJ blocks, and the 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. (1991 to 1995 YJ and 1997-1999 4.0L TJ Wrangler blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ and visa-versa).

TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ.


XJ: "Regular" (not Grand) Cherokees 84-01
ZJ: Grand Cherokee 93-98 (Gen1)
WJ: Grand Cherokee 99-04 (Gen2)
YJ: Wrangler 87-95 (Gen1)
TJ: Wrangler 97-06 (Gen2)

NewKindOfClown

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uptownbill

i can’t get this out. any tips? sway bar link torx bolt thing

https://imgur.com/gallery/qasWi

EZEARL

The bolt and bracket are splined. I used 50/50 acetone/auto trans fluid an heat. With the nut flush with the end of the bolt I hit it with a 2 1/2 hammer. Both came out fairly easy. You can bend those brackets so take that in to consideration.

If I were to have to do it again I would try the crayon trick I saw recently in reference to removing the pitman arm. After treating with 50/50 for a day or so melt a crayon so that the wax flows in to the splines and hopefully through the splines. Then do the hammer thing.

CurrySoSpicy

Here’s what I did. Use a tie rod/pitman arm puller. The steering stabilizer will get in the way of the pitman/tie rod puller. So I used a cut off wheel to cut the splined torx bolt shorter. This allowed clearance for the puller. Then it’s as easy as cranking the puller to free the bolt. The use of a rust penetrant is highly recommended. For refernece purposes, I used the pitman/tie rod puller from harbor freight. Good luck.

Edit: also check out my build page for pictures of when I performed this task. It’s post #155 on my thread, the link to my thread is in my signature.

mjgirard

The tube in the picture is the extension tube from the water pump to connect to the heater hoses. I know Advance Auto has both the tube and water pump because I just replaced both on my 96 Cherokee in the spring. They both lasted for over 210000 miles. Once repaired your overheating problem should go away. If I were you I would replace the thermostat at the same time, you are right there removing parts.

Roofologist

Can anyone identify where this line goes? It turns to a steel line and runs back on top of the fuel tank and out of sight.

naverillsn001

Still chasing hard starting issue.... have done all of the following:

Replaced fuel pump and pressure regulator
Replaced tps
Replaced IAC
Cleaned throttle body
Battery, dist. cap, rotor, plugs and wires all replaced 10 months ago.

Ordered an intake air temp. sensor to try next. No CEL during all of this. Just hard starting.

From what I’ve read here, another possible culprit is the CPS. But I have NO other issues... once she starts, she runs and idles smooth and strong. Is it possible for a faulty CPS to cause hard starting and no other symptoms?

NewKindOfClown

Define "hard starting"

Is the starter turning slowly and chugging, or is turning quickly and taking longer to start than it should?

naverillsn001

Starter turns fine, fuel pressure is good, but it takes about 5 tries to catch. Does not run rough after starting, idles steady.

XJwonders

How about fuel pressure 1/2 hour after turning the engine off? Did the fuel pressure drop?

naverillsn001

I don’t have a gauge, and at least my local Autozone wants $150 to rent it. But before I replaced the pump and in-tank regulator, if I pushed the fuel release valve in the morning, no gas came out, pressure was zero. Now in the morning there’s still pressure.

Basslicks

Only way you're going to know is to pull the fuel tank.

The sender could be "clocked" on the assembly the wrong way, throwing off the reading of the fuel level... combined with your sagging leaf springs.... OR you could have a 13 gallon fuel tank.

Could, could, could. You need to just go ahead and do some hard investigation. No matter what way you look at it, modifying your fuel capacity is going to take some hands-on work.

DON'T let spectra try to tell you that THIS is a 13 gallon tank....



Note that the FILLER tube is curved down into the tank but the VENT tube is parallel to the bottom? That's the OEM 20 gallon tank. Mine looks like this on the inside.... before I did the fuel tank mod I was averaging 18 gallons each fillup from the light being on. From dead empty it was slightly more than 20 gallons - including fuel in the filler neck. After performing the vent tube modification, I now can get up to 23 gallons from dead empty.

Spectra sells this for their 20 gallon tank:



It's THEIR design, not the OE design.

I would imagine that the 13 gallon tank would look something like this:




Whether the vent tube is chopped off up near the wall of the tank or extended into the middle of the tank, it doesn't matter. What matters is where the fuel level of the inside of the tank is going to be when it cuts off airflow to the end of that vent tube. It's at the same height either way.... so if the tube curves down (like the filler tube), the fuel will cut off airflow and send fuel back UP the filler tube (because the tank is vacuum locked) sooner than if it's level or curved up.

BTW, if anyone DOES have the Spectra-style design and wants to do that vent tube mod... good luck. I was just barely able to fit my arm in the hole of the tank far enough to do it to the OE design tank. No idea how you'd reach it if it was up by the wall.

motopunks

Hi newbie here.

Recently acquired a 1996; 5 speed XJ (4wd). I've been ticking through a bunch of things. New therm, water pump, belt, gaskets...other little things, fan clutch etc.

What's got me stumped is the clutch/tranny is running great, shifts great, UNTIL the engine gets hot, then it won't shift into gear. It's been running a little hot, but, I've been ticking all the boxes resolving that, staying under or at 210. So right now, I get about an 1/2 hour to an hour of around town/Brooklyn traffic, then i can't get into gear. My next step is to replace the master slave cylinder assembly. That's my best guess at this point. I can't really detect any leak of the fluid-it just doesn't like the heat. I also checked the fluid level, looks right. I guess I will try to bleed it before I order the part. I also have some trans fluid en route to do a flush there (Redline MTL). Anyone have any wisdom with this? Thank you.

Basslicks

I do believe that's a symptom of the clutch needing to be bled. Same thing was happening to the '92 I was borrowing and everyone told me that's what it was. Never got the chance to do it before I had to give it back though.