CurrySoSpicy

I would replace water pump, t-stat, fan clutch, upper and lower rad hoses, radiator (not if you did this or not), probably do the serp belt as well. It's not to difficult to do. Most XJs driving around this world that are not owned by enthusiasts need some TLC. When buying used, we don't really truly know how old the components are. I always suggest a fresh rebuild of the system as a sort of right of passage. That way you know your cooling system is fresh and ready to perform correctly for you for a long time. I would suggest using MOPAR parts for this job. Most notably the t-stat. They are more expensive, but are absolute quality. Trust me, you don't want to replace a water pump twice, because you cheaped out. Cheers.

Drew_OH

Thanks for the list. This is the start I needed to get going on this and not having it sitting around so I can enjoy it WHILE I upgrade!


It's a 99. The only things I wish right now is that it was not an automatic, and that I had a bit more knowledge. I need to get to work!

Thanks guys!

CurrySoSpicy

Sure thing! We are always here for you to fall back on if you need support. Let us know if you need more help.

jonnyjets

The parts I was thinking of were : thermostat or housing, brake pads, chassis, shoes, drums, rotors, radiator.

jonnyjets

thanks for the reply by the way!

jeps

thanks for the advice, i did all that just as you described...i think i said i was at op temp but i didnt mention how long i drove to get it there...but it sounds like from what youve said even though i drove it i didnt get it hot enough befor i checked the levels....i checked it with engine running in neutral at op temps (i thought) as thats what it says on my dip stick.... as far as operating temp, i drove it around the farm for about 15 minutes...(35-40 seconds at a time ofcourse....frustrating) but i figured it had to be warm enough bye then.... even though it wasnt a continuous 15 minutes, with the 15-20 second waits it had to be atleast 8-10 minutes of driving....i figured that had to be warmed to op temps by then...as far as replace what you took out...the old fluid was added to my fire starter jug and i didnt measure its volume...i figured i was doing a full fluid change and let it drain for 30 minutes so i put back in what my book said....ok..so im gathering that i put in way to much.... if thats the case should i drain little bits at a time til i can drive it without losing forward momentum..?...then do 10 mile and check it and it should read rite ..then i can adjust til the stick looks good..?..thanks for the tip cause i didnt think it took that long to come up to op temp and im hoping its just got to much still.....anyone have any thoughts on the in and out play of the shaft on the transfer case....is that suppost to have play or should it be solid and tight....in my mind im thinking it shouldnt move in and out at all....

Tbone289

Well, if you did mention it I didn't see it. I read your original post again and still don't see it, but it's pretty tough to read all of that with the lack of punctuation.

I usually run it several miles from cold before checking, but that's probably overkill. If you're up to operating temp and it's reading in the normal range while in park or neutral with the engine running, you have the fluid level correct and I don't think that's your issue.

What color was the fluid you drained, and did it have a metallic sheen at all?

Drew_OH

Hey. I am searching around, but I am not finding good places to purchase MOPAR brand parts. Any suggestions? (am I missing something?)

- Some people are saying Crown is as good?

jeps

sorry, im in a frenzy cause its my daily so i probly did miss some info....never been good with punctuations, ill do my best.....i removed fluid until it felt like a slipping trans..then i added a 1/4 quart at a time..the trans is back to normal operation...it kinda looks like a sheen but very faint..and there was no huge chunks or slivers of metal in it.... i had way to much fluid so i appriciate the help and knowledge..now that its back to normal maybe i could get your thoughts on my original issue....THE ISSUE: when i first noticed it i was coming to a stop and when i applied the brakes i got a clunk grind noise and it felt like my front brakes were stuttering as if i had a loose pad ..when i came to a full stop it went away and it didnt do it while accelerating or at speeds...i figured check the brakes, wasnt it...i dont feel the stuttering anymore but 85% of the time itll make the noise coming to a stop and its getting louder....sometimes the noise will keep on going a few seconds after ive stopped...but it still goes away when accelerating and at speeds...last night while fixing my fluid problem i noticed that when i come to a full stop and the noise continues, giving it gas helps it go away...?..keep in mind the trans shifts fine and works great other than the noise..(my previous issue was my fault, trans is working good again)..MY THOUGHTS: a bad bearing thats creating the clunk grind noise... or maybe my torque converter is havin issues cause thats where i hear the sound... WHAT IVE DONE AND FOUND: i pulled the bellhousing cover cause it almost sounded like a bolt bouncing around in the bell..everything looked clean and dry, i didnt see any signs of leaks or loose bolts..nothing on the outside of the trans is leaking and i dont see any obvious issues...so on to the transfer case, it has alot of in and out play at the yoke/shaft for the front axle..it moves in and out about 3/8 of an inch and i assume it shouldnt do that...the only leaks i see in the whole trans/transfer system is at that shaft as it comes threw the case.. the only item in the whole trans/transfer system thats wet is the yoke on that shaft..externally its the only thing i see wrong.....someone mentioned to me that even if i heard it up front it could be the transfer case harmonizing the sound forward threw the shaft...? i dont know how accurate that is..as ive said i dont know everything, esspesially transmissions..but i love to learn and work on my own stuff so any thoughts are appriciated...MY QUESTIONS: what could be making the sound, and should that transfer case shaft move in and out..?

Basslicks

I usually FIND the MOPAR parts number online at moparpartsoverstock.com or similar, then search the part numbers on RockAuto.com, amazon.com, or ebay.com (yes, in that order).

shotseven

Hi y'all. I was hoping someone could help me with an A/C problem on my 99 XJ-- my HVAC will not pull in r134a even after vacuuming the lines and manually engaging the compressor.
Some context: My A/C compressor clutch seized recently, leaking out all the r134a while my brother was driving it. The belt also snapped but I've since replaced it.

Anyways, I popped in a pre-oiled compressor and ran a vac on the system with manifold gauges (both the vac and gauges I rented from Autozone), which held a steady, unchanging pressure of 29 with the vac off throughout. With the manifold gauges, I used r134a cans to recharge the system and got my A/C working great, but I slightly overcharged it. It got really dark outside and I had to return the equipment, so I didn't run my A/C and I later went to a different Autozone and rerented the equipment to check the pressure again. Unfortunately, the gauges had a leak and I lost my charge through the gauge lines while the A/C was off.

So I rented the same equipment from the first Autozone that I went to and re-ran a vacuum. It still held pressure with the vac off, but later on I couldn't get my HVAC to pull in refrigerant, even with the compressor manually engaged by jumping the low pressure switch. I've had the can on a weighing scale and the system's just not pulling any in. The lines are set up exactly as I had it the first time when I successfully charged it.
The low pressure gauge, regardless of compressor engagement, shows constant psi above 100, only decreasing if I put a screwdriver on the yellow line's schrader valve to check if the can's at least putting some out. But again, the system just won't pull any in. The high-side pressure wavers some when the compressor engages but nothing on the low side. On the gauge, only the low-side line is open, and on the car, both lines are open. No dice. A/C just blows ambient (but slightly hotter) air. When I used a screwdriver on the low side schrader, a miniscule amount of freon came out, then nothing. I'm stumped. Does anyone have any idea what's going on here?

--
UPDATE: Rambler65, thanks for the quick response! I should clarify, the low pressure psi was reading the pressure coming from the can, as the compressor wasn't pulling it in, or so I thought. I figured it out last night. The solution turned out to be pretty simple! I went on a hunch and bought my own vacuum pump and manifold gauges from my nearby Harbor Freight Tools (for like half the deposit price of renting each from AutoZone). Turns out, the rental manifold gauges were faulty 2/3 times-- the HVAC system was never connected to the low pressure line because the low pressure line's coupling pin (where it connects to the schrader valve on the XJ) was just slightly broken off, so it wouldn't depress the valve. The vacuum that formed with the pump was only in the small amount of space between the schrader valve itself, and since there were no leaks it would hold that pressure, too! In retrospect, I should have realized this immediately, as when I used the pump, the vacuum jumped to 30 inHg almost immediately, though I thought this was because I had already vacced the system. Obviously, this also means that when I bypassed the compressor for a few seconds at a time it was running completely dry.

Anyways, my A/C's working great now since I used new equipment and ran the same procedure. Thanks you guys!

Rambler65

I'm a little confused - from the description it sounds like the system should be empty since you evacuated it and it's not pulling in any refrigerant from the can, but the low side gauge is showing over 100 psi? (BTW, if there is no refrigerant in the system you don't want to run the compressor for more than a few seconds. It depends on oil mixed in the refrigerant for lubrication.)

BrawnyDog

Is there a particular injector harness I need to get to replace my old one? I'd like not to spend a ton but I'll gladly buy OEM if aftermarket is junk ( I learned that lesson on my cps, among other things).

jeps

update...t. case needs seals/rebuild kit for the front yoke leak and movement which ill do this week..everything else looks good, no signs of wear....trans is still making noise, which is what i originally needed help with befor i screwd my fluid levels up... thats all sorted...... now itll make noise in park for a few seconds, just like when its in gear coming to a stop...(the quote above explains that part)....since its lifted i found me a couple walnuts, crawled under it and had a buddy move it back and forth..i laid down on a skateboard and got a good listen..its 100% that its coming from the bellhouseing area...so i removed the bell plate and got creative...i put my buddys pen camera up there and did some more back and forth...lots of noise but no leaks, no obvious bearing wear like the shaft moving..i realize it might not be and doesnt have to be "see-able" for there to be a bearing problem..it sounded to me more like the torque converter...?..im doing some research on them to get familiarized, i have a basic understanding but the more knowledge the better...between now and then, has anyone had a bad torque converter that made a terrible grind noise like that...?...and thanks again cause the shared info and research on older threads has been helping me threw this issue nicely...hopefully itll help the next guy down the road aswell...

1991Jeep_Man

About to swap the cooler from a Grand Marquis into my XJ. See pic below.

The cooler is a combo trans/PS unit. Would you: A) use it as is, adding a transmission cooler and PS cooler to the Jeep, or B) loop the PS cooler inline with the trans cooler to make one massive transmission cooler?

If A, advisable to add temp bypass valves to both setups? Thanks!