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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2016
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18 Posts
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
is anyone familiar with that build and can you provide the link? I believe it's a white cherokee.
Guy has frame stiffeners and dropped the TC on his head. I just can't find the dang build haha
I'm trying to find out what he used to fix the floor pan.
Thank you
Guy has frame stiffeners and dropped the TC on his head. I just can't find the dang build haha
I'm trying to find out what he used to fix the floor pan.
Thank you
Last edited by 4x4jeepmanthing; 05-13-2017 at 10:40 PM.
No, I don't lick fish.
OH! lol.... sorry man, not familiar. Dropped a TC on his head? Holy crap!
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
lol no sweat here just trying to find the content to help me. he has a great build but ive exhausted hours trying to find it. its very helpful for my choice on floorboard fix.
thank you basslicks and everyone else scratching their head
thank you basslicks and everyone else scratching their head
CF Veteran
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
It is a urethane that is used on windshields. FYI, silicone should not be used, it can be acidic/corrosive to bare metal and paint. Here is windshield urethane; https://www.amazon.ca/3M-08693-Ureth...hield+urethane
CF Veteran
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Location: Fauquier County, Virginia
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Are there two different brake switches on 1991 XJs? I've seen some pictures that seemed to have two, but my 91 only has one. Being an automatic with cruise, I think I need the one listed below. Admission: I am over 6 foot and fat, hence why I haven't climbed under to troubleshoot yet. Plan on removing the seat to lay on my back. Buddy helped me swap in the 95 upgrade booster and master, and he swears there was no switch on the end of the rod, just the big one below. Thoughts?
No, I don't lick fish.
Are there two different brake switches on 1991 XJs? I've seen some pictures that seemed to have two, but my 91 only has one. Being an automatic with cruise, I think I need the one listed below. Admission: I am over 6 foot and fat, hence why I haven't climbed under to troubleshoot yet. Plan on removing the seat to lay on my back. Buddy helped me swap in the 95 upgrade booster and master, and he swears there was no switch on the end of the rod, just the big one below. Thoughts?
Attachment 301260
Attachment 301260
Is a carryover from the Renix-era. So the first couple years of HOs might have either one... but I've not heard of a Jeep having (or needing) both.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Beach Bum
i have exactly that for the windshield itself, but i'm talking about the rubber seal that goes around the glass. it is glued to the glass and i'm not sure if that is urethane or some other type of adhesive. if that's what you were also referring to then nevermind, but just trying to make sure we're talking about the same thing.
Seasoned Member
what adhesive should i use to glue my windshield rubber seal on? i need to remove it at the top to grind some rust and then paint, and there seems to be a black gluey stuff holding it on, not sure what it is.
i searched a little and found this, is it what i'm looking for?
First and foremost, your going to have hell putting the moulding back in if the windshield was installed properly to begin with. Pulling the moulding out will stretch the moulding out of shape. But if you decide to pull it anyway, urethane is the correct adhesive to replace it.
You are going to discover that the moulding is designed to be placed around the windshield prior to setting the windshield. A properly installed windshield will hold the moulding in place with both the urethane and the upward pressure placed on the windshield when it is set. Have you ever noticed people driving around with tape on their glass? The sole purpose of the tape is to hold pressure in an upward manner to keep both the windshield and moulding in place until the bond of the urethane can hold them on it's cured.
A reputable glass installer can remove your windshield and reinstall it for a nominal fee. We generally get $120 for this process which includes labor and 1 hour cure urethane. Sometimes a new moulding will be required but for our xj's, that's about $20 bucks.
I guess it depends on if your working on a daily driver that you want to keep looking nice or a mudder that don't matter.
The moulding has nothing to do with keeping a windshield from leaking, it is purely cosmetic. If properly installed you could leave the moulding off until your next windshield replacement.
Just my .02 worth. Been doing automotive glass since the late 70's.
Happy Jeepin'
i searched a little and found this, is it what i'm looking for?
First and foremost, your going to have hell putting the moulding back in if the windshield was installed properly to begin with. Pulling the moulding out will stretch the moulding out of shape. But if you decide to pull it anyway, urethane is the correct adhesive to replace it.
You are going to discover that the moulding is designed to be placed around the windshield prior to setting the windshield. A properly installed windshield will hold the moulding in place with both the urethane and the upward pressure placed on the windshield when it is set. Have you ever noticed people driving around with tape on their glass? The sole purpose of the tape is to hold pressure in an upward manner to keep both the windshield and moulding in place until the bond of the urethane can hold them on it's cured.
A reputable glass installer can remove your windshield and reinstall it for a nominal fee. We generally get $120 for this process which includes labor and 1 hour cure urethane. Sometimes a new moulding will be required but for our xj's, that's about $20 bucks.
I guess it depends on if your working on a daily driver that you want to keep looking nice or a mudder that don't matter.
The moulding has nothing to do with keeping a windshield from leaking, it is purely cosmetic. If properly installed you could leave the moulding off until your next windshield replacement.
Just my .02 worth. Been doing automotive glass since the late 70's.
Happy Jeepin'
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Quebec
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
what adhesive should i use to glue my windshield rubber seal on? i need to remove it at the top to grind some rust and then paint, and there seems to be a black gluey stuff holding it on, not sure what it is.
i searched a little and found this, is it what i'm looking for?
First and foremost, your going to have hell putting the moulding back in if the windshield was installed properly to begin with. Pulling the moulding out will stretch the moulding out of shape. But if you decide to pull it anyway, urethane is the correct adhesive to replace it.
You are going to discover that the moulding is designed to be placed around the windshield prior to setting the windshield. A properly installed windshield will hold the moulding in place with both the urethane and the upward pressure placed on the windshield when it is set. Have you ever noticed people driving around with tape on their glass? The sole purpose of the tape is to hold pressure in an upward manner to keep both the windshield and moulding in place until the bond of the urethane can hold them on it's cured.
A reputable glass installer can remove your windshield and reinstall it for a nominal fee. We generally get $120 for this process which includes labor and 1 hour cure urethane. Sometimes a new moulding will be required but for our xj's, that's about $20 bucks.
I guess it depends on if your working on a daily driver that you want to keep looking nice or a mudder that don't matter.
The moulding has nothing to do with keeping a windshield from leaking, it is purely cosmetic. If properly installed you could leave the moulding off until your next windshield replacement.
Just my .02 worth. Been doing automotive glass since the late 70's.
Happy Jeepin'
i searched a little and found this, is it what i'm looking for?
First and foremost, your going to have hell putting the moulding back in if the windshield was installed properly to begin with. Pulling the moulding out will stretch the moulding out of shape. But if you decide to pull it anyway, urethane is the correct adhesive to replace it.
You are going to discover that the moulding is designed to be placed around the windshield prior to setting the windshield. A properly installed windshield will hold the moulding in place with both the urethane and the upward pressure placed on the windshield when it is set. Have you ever noticed people driving around with tape on their glass? The sole purpose of the tape is to hold pressure in an upward manner to keep both the windshield and moulding in place until the bond of the urethane can hold them on it's cured.
A reputable glass installer can remove your windshield and reinstall it for a nominal fee. We generally get $120 for this process which includes labor and 1 hour cure urethane. Sometimes a new moulding will be required but for our xj's, that's about $20 bucks.
I guess it depends on if your working on a daily driver that you want to keep looking nice or a mudder that don't matter.
The moulding has nothing to do with keeping a windshield from leaking, it is purely cosmetic. If properly installed you could leave the moulding off until your next windshield replacement.
Just my .02 worth. Been doing automotive glass since the late 70's.
Happy Jeepin'
CF Veteran
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24 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Starting to second guess picking up axles that have lockers for a rig I'll likely drive on the street more than offroad. Never had lockers before, will the lunch box lockers make street driving bad?
Senior Member
That's actually a carryover from way before the Renix XJs. I used to have a 1975 AMC Hornet that used the same switch.
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Alright; I'm at a loss. Replaced the brake switch, adjusted so the button releases with the brake pedal moving down. I replaced the HAZ 15 amp fuse in the PDC. My 91 XJ doesn't have brake lights or hazards. Turn signals work. Reverse lights work. What do y'all think? Is there a fuse somewhere in the cab?
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Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
Alright; I'm at a loss. Replaced the brake switch, adjusted so the button releases with the brake pedal moving down. I replaced the HAZ 15 amp fuse in the PDC. My 91 XJ doesn't have brake lights or hazards. Turn signals work. Reverse lights work. What do y'all think? Is there a fuse somewhere in the cab?