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Old 04-30-2017, 03:38 PM
  #58066  
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Originally Posted by Traces
2000 XJ Fed Emissions 4.0L Automatic 215k miles

Hey guys I really need some help here. I've been fighting a multiple cylinder misfire and I have 2 months to get this fixed so that I can pass emissions. It randomly shows different cylinders. It could be cylinder 5 and 6 or it can be 1,2, 4, 5, or 6. Sometimes when it throws the codes its just 5 or just 6 other times it shows all of them except for cylinder 3.

What I've done:

Checked grounds, replaced CPS, TPS, coil rail, spark plugs, O2 sensors, injectors, cleaned the throttle body and the IAC valve and checked for vacuum leaks. All parts that have been replaced are Mopar. I've not yet done a compression test but the engine doesn't actually misfire. It runs as smooth as glass. There is no sputtering, rough idle, hard starts, and it can happen at anytime sitting parked or doing 80 mph or 6 mph. I do know that it only happens after the engine has warmed up. I have been using the Torque app for codes. Here is the codes I got this morning after driving 24 miles into work and then parked idling in the work parking lot. I have ordered the Chrysler Combustion Chamber cleaner for my next step. Could the catalytic converter cause this issue?

Torque Codes:

Current Fault Log
------------------
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0305: Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0306: Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!
If it's actually running smooth as glass I'd suspect an issue with the CMP (camshaft position sensor). Do you have one you can swap with to test? I'd hate to keep throwing money at the thing. I'm not sure how to dig into a "misfire that doesn't exist" without using one of those fancy dealer tools that shows the PCM's raw data.

Originally Posted by Martlor13
Isnt 80 fully pegged?
Originally Posted by rcguymike
I've heard 60PSI is the upper end of normal. Salad would be our oil expert.
60 PSI at idle would mean you're running SAE50 in Antarctica lol

Originally Posted by Ethan94
yes. After the engine rebuild the guy said it was accurate. Me being young and previously never owning anything before 05 I don't know what's normal for oil pressure readings
No way in hell. A good healthy 4.0L will show around 40 PSI, give or take 5 PSI depending on exact oil weight and temperature. Drop by your local parts store and see if you can rent or borrow a mechanical pressure gauge. Chances are the sending unit or the plug to it is screwed (not uncommon)
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Old 04-30-2017, 05:06 PM
  #58067  
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Does a 98 4.0L need to have it's TPS adjusted after replacement? Is there a wrong way to install it around that tab? As in does it need to be on one side or the other of the splines inside the sensor? I replaced the TPS and IAC valve and it's idling quite high (2k). Does the ecu just need to relearn?
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Old 04-30-2017, 05:45 PM
  #58068  
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Originally Posted by salad
No way in hell. A good healthy 4.0L will show around 40 PSI, give or take 5 PSI depending on exact oil weight and temperature. Drop by your local parts store and see if you can rent or borrow a mechanical pressure gauge. Chances are the sending unit or the plug to it is screwed (not uncommon)
mine is a rebuilt 2.5l with under 1,000 miles on it. So how would I fix it?

Last edited by Ethan94; 04-30-2017 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 04-30-2017, 06:41 PM
  #58069  
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Originally Posted by Hawx
Does a 98 4.0L need to have it's TPS adjusted after replacement? Is there a wrong way to install it around that tab? As in does it need to be on one side or the other of the splines inside the sensor? I replaced the TPS and IAC valve and it's idling quite high (2k). Does the ecu just need to relearn?
No adjustment is required. You can check the voltage passing through the sensor by backprobing with a multimeter. What is the problem you're experiencing?

Originally Posted by Ethan94
mine is a rebuilt 2.5l with under 1,000 miles on it. So how would I fix it?
2.5L is a 4.0L missing two cylinders.

Test it with the mechanical gauge.
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Old 04-30-2017, 06:57 PM
  #58070  
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Originally Posted by salad
No adjustment is required. You can check the voltage passing through the sensor by backprobing with a multimeter. What is the problem you're experiencing?
I disconnected the neg terminal and reconnected and it seems to be running normally again. I had an issue with the jeep stalling at idle. Would pull up to a stop and it would stumble then stall. Also had it shifting strangely last week. Both the tps and iac valve looked original so I opted to replace both. I took it for a test drive around residential streets with plenty of stops and it seemed to be running normally. CPS was replaced last summer and I haven't had issues starting it cold nor after a stall so I didn't think it would be that again.
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:00 PM
  #58071  
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Anybody have a long-term fix for securing the pressed-in (?) studs on the header panel? One of the upper ones broke free at the radiator support bracket. Superglue maybe or too brittle w/ age?
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:28 PM
  #58072  
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Originally Posted by 4WD4EVER
Anybody have a long-term fix for securing the pressed-in (?) studs on the header panel? One of the upper ones broke free at the radiator support bracket. Superglue maybe or too brittle w/ age?
Should be able to just get some fiberglass resin and drown it back in... maybe some cloth if a little more reinforcement is needed.
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:38 PM
  #58073  
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I'm replacing aftermarket lights in my jeep with new ones. I decided to just splice the wires from the old ones to the new ones. One problem, the last set of lights were connected (the wires were connected). The old lights had a red wire (but no black wire) coming off of each light, and a ground wire connected to a metal bracket. The new lights have a red wire and a black wire, but no ground wire. Am i supposed to go red to positive, black to negative? And why don't the new lights have a ground, opposed to the old lights? Should i just rewire it or use the existing wire and make a Y configuration from the battery, going to both lights? As in, one red wire from positive, going to both lights, and a single black wire going to both lights (still in a Y configuration?) any advice is greatly appreiciated
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:39 PM
  #58074  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Should be able to just get some fiberglass resin and drown it back in... maybe some cloth if a little more reinforcement is needed.

Now why didn't I think of that Justin?

Thx bro.
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Old 04-30-2017, 08:29 PM
  #58075  
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Originally Posted by 4WD4EVER
Now why didn't I think of that Justin?

Thx bro.
Any time
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Old 04-30-2017, 08:44 PM
  #58076  
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Ok so you know how when you turn your key to start and all the power goes out to supply the starter. So my 92 with a 4.0 gets stuck there. No power any where, and doesn't turn over and stays there I have to disconnect the battery to get it to reset. So far I've replaced the starter relay, auto shut down relay and the ignition switch. That last one was a bear to get to. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Old 04-30-2017, 09:31 PM
  #58077  
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Originally Posted by lbseals
Ok so you know how when you turn your key to start and all the power goes out to supply the starter. So my 92 with a 4.0 gets stuck there. No power any where, and doesn't turn over and stays there I have to disconnect the battery to get it to reset. So far I've replaced the starter relay, auto shut down relay and the ignition switch. That last one was a bear to get to. Any ideas? Thanks.
Having to disconnect the battery sounds a little strange, but have you checked the Neutral Safety Switch? All your symptoms point to that except disconnecting and reconnecting the battery... that's strange.
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Old 04-30-2017, 10:12 PM
  #58078  
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so that's awesome. I just did a little fiddling and I'm pretty sure you are correct. Not sure why the battery reset it. Or it was just coincidence. It didn't always work. Thank you very much. Also looking at it. The wires for the switch appear to have been messed with at some point. They are now routed very unfactory. Though they feed into the factory harness. Anyway it starts. Thanks again.
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Old 04-30-2017, 10:17 PM
  #58079  
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Originally Posted by lbseals
so that's awesome. I just did a little fiddling and I'm pretty sure you are correct. Not sure why the battery reset it. Or it was just coincidence. It didn't always work. Thank you very much. Also looking at it. The wires for the switch appear to have been messed with at some point. They are now routed very unfactory. Though they feed into the factory harness. Anyway it starts. Thanks again.
No prob.... would be a good idea to clean it while it's on your mind. Here's a good how-to video on it.

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Old 05-01-2017, 12:36 AM
  #58080  
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Originally Posted by salad
2.5L is a 4.0L missing two cylinders.

Test it with the mechanical gauge.
I know, but I'm asking is how would I get the oil pressure gauge to work right? Upon starting the car it pegs at 80, I didn't hook up the wires or anything. That was done when the engine was rebuilt. So I have no idea.
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