the_big_h

Your post is a little confusing... You pulled into your garage Sat under it's own power - was that before the transfer case swap? If so, you missed a part when installing the new transfer case - as far as I know, there is a collar that splines between the transmission output shaft, and the transfer case input shaft. If you left that collar out, you have no connection between the transmission and the transfer case, resulting in what you describe - trans goes through gears, but nothing comes out of transfer case.

BigJon9976

Hey Guys!

I'm at it again with another question lol. I keep seeing this mount when checking out parts for my 97 xj. I am replacing my engine and transmission mounts soon, so I am curious what this mount is all about and how the hell someone would mount it to begin with lmao. What am I looking at?!


http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ailabilityTab_


-Jon


Edit: Also, anyone know how to get the BrownDog mount kits cheaper?

http://browndogindustries.com/KU2569...er-Rubber.aspx

nardey11

I'm getting a 3in lift kit from rough country, one kit comes with new lower control arms but the other doesn't. Do I need the new ones for a 3 inch lift?

Martlor13

get a zone kit instead or even rustys and yeah I would get new arms.

DJordan

I have a 98 Jeep Charokee Sport, it stalled and wouldn't start while we were on the highway. Replaced the pcm, cps, new plugs, distributer and still coming up with codes P0340: Canshaft position sensor circuit failure P0138: O2 circuit short to voltage P0700 Automatic control system malfunction and P1694: No ccd message from pcm. Did not pick up on any of these codes before hand and we are completely stumped. Please help

salad

Crawl under the Jeep and look along the right hand side of the transmission at the wiring harness. See if it's chewed up.

DJordan

[QUOTE=salad;3355298]Crawl under the Jeep and look along the right hand side of the transmission at the wiring harness. See if it's chewed up.[/QUOTE
All wires look good

DJordan

I just used the vehicle to pick up my son and it seemed to give more power when I turned the heater off, but wanted to stall everytime I hit a stop sign or red light. Husband just got home with the meter, so I am headed out to check the O2 sensor again

BigJon9976

Hey Guys!

Can anyone confirm these Torque Specs are accurate for a 97 XJ? I'm replacing all steering components and bushings (Factory parts. Ordered steering replacement kit from 1aauto- nothing to brag about lol) this weekend and would like to verify the specs here:



Torque specs:

Item ........................................ Ft. lbs. ................... Nm

Lug nuts (1/2 X 20 w/ 60* cone) .... 85-115 .............. 115-150
All tie rod ends .....................…..... 55 ...................….. 74
Steering (both ends) ..............…..... 55 ................….... 74
Shock absorber upper nut .............. 16 ................….... 22
Shock absorber lower nuts ............. 17 ................….... 23
UCA frame end .....................…...... 66 ..............…..... 89
UCA axle end .........................….... 55 ................….... 74
LCA frame end ......................…..... 85 ...................... 115
LCA axle end .........................….... 85 ...................... 115
Track bar frame end ..............…..... 60 .................…... 81
Track bar axle end .................….... 40 ..................…... 54
Track bar bracket bolts ..........…..... 92 ...................... 125
Track bar bracket nut .............….... 74 ....................... 100
Track bar bracket support bolts ...... 31 ....................... 42
Hub bolts (3) ............................…. 75 ....................... 102
Hub- axle bolt ..........................….. 175 ..................... 237

Alingment specs (stock):

Angle ............. Preferred ........... Range ............. Max R/L diff.

Caster ............ +7.0* ........ +5.25* to +8.5* ......... 1.25*
Camber ........... -0.25* ....... -0.75* to +0.5 ........... 1.0*
Total Toe-in .... +0.25* ....... 0* to +0.45* ............. .05*
Thrust angle .... 0* to ± 0.15*

Thanks in Advance!
-Jon

TFitzPat87

That first link is actually the exhaust hanger mount/bushing that's at the transmission/crossmember. Not for all years though.

Once you've bought the brown dog mounts you wont have to buy again. Cry once, buy once.

nhopa

Hi:
This is an old problem with some new information. I had my 2001 Jeep Cherokee stalling during the hot summer months in Arizona. At that time we had extensive discussions on this forum. I dropped the trouble shooting for a while to take care of problems with my 2014 Jeep Cherokee. Now I am back working on the older car.
The stalling problem now seems independent of the temperature, it can happen any time normally after driving about 15-20 miles. Before the engine stops it runs very rough, shakes, RPM drops low. I think if it would be an ignition problem the engine would just stop. So I am suspecting perhaps problem with the fuel pump. I hooked up a pressure gage (0-60 PSI range) to the fuel header test connection and ran the gage outside of the hood right against the windshield. Now I could see the header pressure any time which is normally 46 PSI.
Yesterday I drove the Jeep about 20 miles but nothing happened. I drove the Jeep again today and after about 25 miles BINGO, the pressure suddenly dropped to about 15 PSI going as low as 10 PSI. The engine started running rough ready to stall but I was close to home so I made it.
Now the question is, do I have an intermittent fuel pump problem? The Jeep has over 186 K miles on it and it is probably the original fuel pump.
The other question is, should I cut a hole in the bottom of the trunk above the fuel pump in order to make changing of the pump easier? Your inputs are welcome.

salad

Certainly sounds like the fuel pump is gone. I would check the wiring first, although in AZ, chances are it's fine.

I've done the "cut hole in the floor" method. Overall it was a lot easier, but the first time I did it I nicked the tank. It's a bit of a challenge to gauge depth with the rubber padding material on the floor. Go slow with the cutting disc and watch/smell for burning plastic

95Cherokee

I'm about to order a master cylinder off Rock Auto, they have 8 different ones that range from $35 to $85, what is a good brand to get?

What do stay away from? They have Raybestos, AC Delco, Dornan ect.

Rgniady81

So today I finally got around to replacing my power steering lines with new and decided while I was at it I would change the valve cover gasket BC there was a lot of oil residue in the engine bay. Anyway, I watched a couple videos and dove right in. Getting the bolts out and everything unhooked went fine but physically pulling that sucker out of there was another story. It seemed to either get hung up on the lip by the firewall or the heater hose (clamp) in the front. I narrowly pulled it out and it took nearly and hour of wiggling and working and fighting to get it to clear. I'm letting it dry tonight after cleaning it and plan to reinstall tomorrow. Are there any tricks to slipping it back in so that I don't have to fight it the other way too????

my Jeep is a '99 Cherokee with the 4.0 I-6.

95Cherokee

Just remove the heater hose that goes into the top of the thermostat, it's high up, you won't lose but a couple cuts of coolant.