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Old 01-01-2017, 06:52 AM
  #57241  
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Originally Posted by Broncoman89
Pulled water pump today and everything looked fine. Fins we're still there. Ha! Replaced it anyway. Still having the same problem though. Motor runs hot to temp gauge reading in the red. Radiator only reading at the hottest 130 degrees. It's not getting hot enough to turn the fan on. The gauge is reading around the same as the temp light im using.

I've replaced:
Radiator
Water pump
Thermostat
Temp switch for electric fan / jumped fan to make sure it works.

I'm lost. It sounds like an air lock and we've burped it. I unscrewed the gauge sensor cause I heard that can release air if trapped. I should also mention I put a radiator with a cap in from the later models. So it is an open system now.
Don't even pay attention to what the gauge is telling you. The temp sender is off all the time. The temperature at the thermostat housing is what's going to be most accurate. Aim your temp gun right at the "bull nose" on the housing. As far as your thermostat, what thermostat did you use? 195* is OEM spec. And not all thermostats are created equal either. There was a 160* stat in mine and it was running terrible. The thermostat is what keeps the water level and pressure in the block equal. (Sorry, I didn't see in your other posts if you'd already mentioned what stat you put in).

Also, when you installed the later model radiator, did you also put in the reservoir and overflow/return line? If not, you need to do so or it's not a "complete" open system.
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Old 01-01-2017, 10:56 AM
  #57242  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Don't even pay attention to what the gauge is telling you. The temp sender is off all the time. The temperature at the thermostat housing is what's going to be most accurate. Aim your temp gun right at the "bull nose" on the housing. As far as your thermostat, what thermostat did you use? 195* is OEM spec. And not all thermostats are created equal either. There was a 160* stat in mine and it was running terrible. The thermostat is what keeps the water level and pressure in the block equal. (Sorry, I didn't see in your other posts if you'd already mentioned what stat you put in).

Also, when you installed the later model radiator, did you also put in the reservoir and overflow/return line? If not, you need to do so or it's not a "complete" open system.

Thanks for response. Yes the thermostat was replaced with a 195*. I did make an overflow tank/return line when I switched radiators. I was gonna try and use an aftermarket temp gauge just to see if it was a gauge issue or a sensor issue.
The gauge is the only thing reading in the red. I've been putting the temp gun on the rear temp gauge sensor, the thermostat housing and then checking the temp in the radiator. When the gauge reads red the rear guage is at 200-210 the thermostat is at 180-190 and the radiator is at 130 on the hot side and then about 100 on the fan sensor side.
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Old 01-01-2017, 02:44 PM
  #57243  
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hey everybody i need some help...

i have a 99 xj 4.0 with a p0122 throttle position sensor circuit voltage low, i have changed the sensor with 2 different ones even changed my pcm and tcm and still have the same problem ive checked the harness with no obvious signs of chafing or rubbing im baffled as to what the problem might be....has anyone had a problem like this if so please help before i throw a match in this thing...
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Old 01-01-2017, 03:17 PM
  #57244  
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Originally Posted by 01_NJ_XJ
hey everybody i need some help...

i have a 99 xj 4.0 with a p0122 throttle position sensor circuit voltage low, i have changed the sensor with 2 different ones even changed my pcm and tcm and still have the same problem ive checked the harness with no obvious signs of chafing or rubbing im baffled as to what the problem might be....has anyone had a problem like this if so please help before i throw a match in this thing...
Clean and refresh every connector you can see in the engine bay.

Inspect for bent pins on the TPS connector.
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Old 01-02-2017, 06:04 PM
  #57245  
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88 jeep cherokee transmission leak next to middle bolt of flexplate dust cover anyone know why
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:04 PM
  #57246  
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Originally Posted by Josh Merrill
88 jeep cherokee transmission leak next to middle bolt of flexplate dust cover anyone know why
I'll teach you how to figure it out.

What color fluid?
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:09 PM
  #57247  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
I'll teach you how to figure it out.

What color fluid?
Bright red
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:11 PM
  #57248  
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Originally Posted by Josh Merrill
Bright red
Could be the front trans seal leaking.

The trans cooler lines that run along the engine and back to the trans. Leaking?
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Old 01-03-2017, 04:41 AM
  #57249  
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Hey Cruiser,
-- what happened to #"29-Setting Base Idle" ? From "Cruiser's Mostly Renix Tips" main article?
I tried your cruiser54.com page also - different #s but no Setting Base Idle?
Did you ever do this one?
Is there a procedure?

My Idle - when completely warm gets too low, and sometimes just dies, on some days it wants to die at every stop light.
Also It sometimes will rev high - often by the time I get to my destination, I put it in Park and it's goes up to 1200 ~ maybe 1400+
...and when starting - it will often rev to 3000 and stay there - until I turn it off and restart. If I step on the gas before starting it usually won't rev as high, and will come down after a couple / few seconds.

these may not all be the same issue, IDK.

I hope u r nice & warm down in AZ!
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Old 01-03-2017, 06:45 AM
  #57250  
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Sounds like your TPS is bad because of the high idle symptom.

Or, there's too much resistance in the sensor ground circuit. Tip 5 and 6.
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Old 01-03-2017, 12:24 PM
  #57251  
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might be a dumb question, but i have a 8.25 diff that's in the corner of the garage, and while I was not there my dad moved it and left it with the pinion staring at the ground. when i got back to it it was clear the seal is leaking. i'm wondering if that's normal because it was facing down or if the seal is bad. never saw a drop coming out of it previous to that.

if the answer is to replace the seal to make sure, can i simply mark the nut/pinion and count the turns it takes to remove the nut and reinstall in the same way? thanks
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Old 01-03-2017, 03:02 PM
  #57252  
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How long are tires good for? I know they are measured by miles driven, but I assume for example a tire that only has like 20k on it would still be considered bad if the tires are 15 years old.
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Old 01-03-2017, 03:07 PM
  #57253  
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Originally Posted by PNWjeeper
How long are tires good for? I know they are measured by miles driven, but I assume for example a tire that only has like 20k on it would still be considered bad if the tires are 15 years old.
I think it's 10 years max.
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Old 01-03-2017, 03:23 PM
  #57254  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
I think it's 10 years max.
That's about what I was thinking. I've only got about 5 years on mine but it looks like it's about time to replace them anyways, old Abe's head is barely covered by the tread.
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Old 01-03-2017, 04:09 PM
  #57255  
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After I had a tire come apart on me I asked a friend who sells tires about shelf life. He said 6yrs. The tire was a 7yr old Michelin LTX M/S. Found this link:
http://www.tiresafetygroup.com/tires...-in-six-years/
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