09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
01-12-2015, 09:18 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Why does that price seem to good to be true. Maybe it's the city thing, things are always higher priced, but maybe you can go there and look at them and check the condition. That is a common run. Someone with more knowledge can add though, thought the waggy 44 was 3.73. Unless those were just the tow package ones
As for Waggy gears, Four Wheeler says this:
Common gearing: 3.23, 3.54, 4.09
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...ep-axle-swaps/
FSJ Dana 44
Found in: ’74-’91 Wagoneer, Cherokee, Cherokee Chief, J-truck
Width between wheel mount surfaces: 59½ inches (narrow-track Wagoneer/Cherokee S front); 58½ inches (narrow-track Wagoneer/Cherokee S rear); 66 inches (wide-track Cherokee Chief/J-truck front); 65 inches (wide-track Cherokee Chief/J-truck rear)
Shaft diameter/spline: 1.31-inch, 30-spline
Common gearing: 3.23, 3.54, 4.09
Bolt pattern: 6-on-5½ or 8-on-6½ (some ¾-ton J-trucks)
Pros: The Quadra-Track FSJs have Dana 44 rear axles offset to the passenger-side, which makes use in early Spicer 18-equipped Jeeps nice. The width is more manageable in most CJ and Universal vehicles, and when used with a spring-under front suspension the stock steering can be adapted with little trouble.
Cons: The 6x5½ bolt pattern is only easily converted to 5x5½ on the ’74-’76 small-bearing spindle models. Some early ’80s fronts were a CAD vacuum-disconnect design that should be avoided. Normally have to outboard the spring perches on CJ and YJ Jeeps unless narrowing long-side tube.
Found in: ’74-’91 Wagoneer, Cherokee, Cherokee Chief, J-truck
Width between wheel mount surfaces: 59½ inches (narrow-track Wagoneer/Cherokee S front); 58½ inches (narrow-track Wagoneer/Cherokee S rear); 66 inches (wide-track Cherokee Chief/J-truck front); 65 inches (wide-track Cherokee Chief/J-truck rear)
Shaft diameter/spline: 1.31-inch, 30-spline
Common gearing: 3.23, 3.54, 4.09
Bolt pattern: 6-on-5½ or 8-on-6½ (some ¾-ton J-trucks)
Pros: The Quadra-Track FSJs have Dana 44 rear axles offset to the passenger-side, which makes use in early Spicer 18-equipped Jeeps nice. The width is more manageable in most CJ and Universal vehicles, and when used with a spring-under front suspension the stock steering can be adapted with little trouble.
Cons: The 6x5½ bolt pattern is only easily converted to 5x5½ on the ’74-’76 small-bearing spindle models. Some early ’80s fronts were a CAD vacuum-disconnect design that should be avoided. Normally have to outboard the spring perches on CJ and YJ Jeeps unless narrowing long-side tube.
01-12-2015, 09:27 PM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
After re-reading that, I think the front axle is stripped down, but without the parts needed to swap to 5x5.5 bolt pattern. It also doesn't mention years or a donor vehicle for the 9". I sent an email asking about donor details, but I should've also asked for pictures. As for Waggy gears, Four Wheeler says this: Common gearing: 3.23, 3.54, 4.09 http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...ep-axle-swaps/
Can you go check It out or it's not to close to gou
01-12-2015, 09:31 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
01-12-2015, 09:36 PM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
01-12-2015, 10:47 PM
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Anyone know of a way to plug a light socket without the dash knowing? I am looking into running an LED bar in my rear bumper to replace my reverse light, only one of the two works. But I am sure that inspection won't pass with a the dash light on.
01-12-2015, 10:59 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I'm not sure I follow. You mean a light coming on because your reverse light isn't plugged in? If so, you could wire a resistor inline with the reverse light socket so it thinks there's a bulb there, but I don't think that's an issue unless you have a vehicle with the newer CANBUS system
01-12-2015, 11:18 PM
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Model: Cherokee
Unfortunately I don't have the information you need to fix the problem, but I want to thank you for providing such a thorough description and the necessary information. You're the kind of person we all like to help.
I would start with cleaning grounds and making sure the connections are clean and not corroded. I don't have a diagram for you, though
I would start with cleaning grounds and making sure the connections are clean and not corroded. I don't have a diagram for you, though
01-12-2015, 11:22 PM
CF Veteran
Thanks, buddy
I'm not sure I follow. You mean a light coming on because your reverse light isn't plugged in? If so, you could wire a resistor inline with the reverse light socket so it thinks there's a bulb there, but I don't think that's an issue unless you have a vehicle with the newer CANBUS system
I'm not sure I follow. You mean a light coming on because your reverse light isn't plugged in? If so, you could wire a resistor inline with the reverse light socket so it thinks there's a bulb there, but I don't think that's an issue unless you have a vehicle with the newer CANBUS system
01-12-2015, 11:29 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Also, if so, I still feel like the resistor(s) would work
01-12-2015, 11:34 PM
CF Veteran
You know, maybe not and i'm just wasting time lol. I have one on now and both my passenger side amber driving light (works with blinker) and reverse light don't work so I just figured both set it off. It's been a long time since I've looked at them since in NJ we just test emissions, but I will be going to DE over the summer.
01-12-2015, 11:43 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
You know, maybe not and i'm just wasting time lol. I have one on now and both my passenger side amber driving light (works with blinker) and reverse light don't work so I just figured both set it off. It's been a long time since I've looked at them since in NJ we just test emissions, but I will be going to DE over the summer.
01-12-2015, 11:56 PM
CF Veteran
Swap the driver side bulb to the passenger side. If the problem doesn't reverse, you know the burnt out/missing bulb isn't the problem. In that case, check voltage with a multimeter. I suspect a bad ground if you lost everything on one side, but they may share a common wire somewhere that I'm unaware of
01-13-2015, 01:52 AM
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 Inline
93 XJ Don't start at all
Hi I parking my 93 Xj for 2 weeks and now can't start at all, I thoughts the start, so I pulled the start and checked in the AutoZone and past the test two times, one of my friend tell me could be the Module control Ignition it is the problem, so how can check the MCI before buy other?
01-13-2015, 04:02 AM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hello all,
Recently my XJ has started to act up. It is a 2000 2.5 Cylinder with a 5spd. On Friday the battery light kicked on and soon after the truck died. I removed the battery and replaced it with a brand new one, took it to an O-Reilly's and the alternator tested fine while still mounted. Driving home the battery light kicked back on. I parked it for a few hours then went back in the garage and checked volts at battery, was only getting 12V. Shut it off and turned it back on and I was getting 14.2V. With loads on it was at 14V. I disconnected the PCM and reconnected it. That night, no battery light popped on. Next day the light popped on and I tested the volts at the battery to be 12V again. I ran another alternator test and it was consistently 12V, no amps from the Alternator. I removed the alternator and benched tested it and it came out good. Popped everything back in and no battery light. Anybody know what this can be? It is intermittent and weird. I read some threads about a fusible link and grounds. Anybody have a wiring diagram or locator for these for a 2.5 XJ?
Cliff notes:
-Intermittent battery light keeps coming on
-Sometimes volts at battery are 14.2, sometimes 12
-Battery is good and alternator is good
-2000 2.5L 5SPD Manual
-And if it is a PCM, mine ends in 661AE, which I have not been able to locate. Is there info on which PCM's are compatible?
Recently my XJ has started to act up. It is a 2000 2.5 Cylinder with a 5spd. On Friday the battery light kicked on and soon after the truck died. I removed the battery and replaced it with a brand new one, took it to an O-Reilly's and the alternator tested fine while still mounted. Driving home the battery light kicked back on. I parked it for a few hours then went back in the garage and checked volts at battery, was only getting 12V. Shut it off and turned it back on and I was getting 14.2V. With loads on it was at 14V. I disconnected the PCM and reconnected it. That night, no battery light popped on. Next day the light popped on and I tested the volts at the battery to be 12V again. I ran another alternator test and it was consistently 12V, no amps from the Alternator. I removed the alternator and benched tested it and it came out good. Popped everything back in and no battery light. Anybody know what this can be? It is intermittent and weird. I read some threads about a fusible link and grounds. Anybody have a wiring diagram or locator for these for a 2.5 XJ?
Cliff notes:
-Intermittent battery light keeps coming on
-Sometimes volts at battery are 14.2, sometimes 12
-Battery is good and alternator is good
-2000 2.5L 5SPD Manual
-And if it is a PCM, mine ends in 661AE, which I have not been able to locate. Is there info on which PCM's are compatible?
As stated, Id check and clean connections, and if that doesn't work I'd do the alternator.
01-13-2015, 06:35 AM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
You know, maybe not and i'm just wasting time lol. I have one on now and both my passenger side amber driving light (works with blinker) and reverse light don't work so I just figured both set it off. It's been a long time since I've looked at them since in NJ we just test emissions, but I will be going to DE over the summer.
The PCM on these things does not monitor any lighting circuits. At all. If your CEL is on get the code read!