As you've probably already read, this pump isn't a 100% direct fit for the factory Jeep fuel pump. It is smaller, and the installation requires some modification on your part. If you're new to mechanicing, or don't feel confident in your ability to modify a part to make it work, then I would suggest you either purchase a full size pump from the dealership or buy a complete unit that has the pump already installed. Otherwise, here is my experience replacing a FACTORY Jeep fuel pump:

First, clean up the entire area around the fuel pump and lock ring. Take it to a car wash if need be, or spray the area generously with carb or brake cleaner. You want the general area clear of dirt and debris, as you're going to have a gaping hole in your fuel tank for loose dirt to fall into. Once the area is clean, get a large drip pan and place directly below the fuel pump, as you'll have small amounts of gasoline leak from the fuel lines.

Disconnect the negative terminal on your battery, then disconnect the power going to your fuel pump. The connector is adjacent to your fuel filter.
Once you make sure your fuel pressure is at or near 0, go ahead and remove the fuel lines from the fuel pump assembly. Now is a great time to replace old rubber fuel lines, so I just cut mine off, as I already purchased brand new replacement lines. Once the fuel lines are off, grab a punch and line it up on the large raised tang on the lock ring. Most instructions say to use a brass punch and a plastic hammer to avoid sparks, and this makes sense. However, as I was lacking both of those items, I used a metal punch and a regular hammer and removed the lock ring by tapping it in a counter clockwise direction.

The lock ring will rotate a bit before it's free. Once it comes loose, remove it, then GENTLY pull on the fuel pump assembly to break it loose from the tank. Once the assembly is loose, pull it slowly out, then down, then slowly and carefully rotate it so that the float and the screen can clear the tank. Gently remove the entire assembly and place it in another metal drip pan, as there will be more gasoline present inside of your old pump. One item to note: ensure the rubber bushing is still attached to the metal pipe located adjacent to the filter screen on the bottom of the assembly. If its not there you're going to have to figure out a safe and sane way to fish it out of the gas tank (I got lucky, but others not so much).

Now that the assembly is out, you'll note two brown wires leading to the factory fuel pump. One is the positive wire, and can be traced to the top of the assembly and the red wire. The other brown wire is short and is connected to the frame of the fuel pump, making it the ground, or negative wire. Disconnect both wires. Remove the rubber fuel line running from the top of the old pump to the metal fuel line. Remove the rubber O ring that seals the unit against the fuel tank. If it's in good condition (pliable, no tears or cuts) clean it with some soap and water and reuse it. Otherwise, the Bosch pump comes with a new seal.

Next, remove the filter screen at the bottom of the pump. Examine the screen to see if its clogged with debris. If so, your tank may have a bunch of crud at the bottom that may need to be dealt with. On the back of the pump assembly towards the top, you'll find two nuts. One holds the negative wire in place, the other holds the fuel pump retainer bracket in place. Remove the retainer nut, and lift the bracket and gromit from the top of the pump. Now you should be able to remove the old pump. Note: the old pump will still have gas in it. If you shake it in the drip pan, it will drip out. Keep this in mind when you handle and dispose of the old pump. Remove the old filter screen from the bottom of the assembly (it pulls off with ease).

You are now ready to install the Bosch pump. The first thing you'll notice is how much smaller the Bosch pump is compared to the factory pump. And you'll wonder how this is all going to come together. Here's what you'll do: There is a white plastic adaptor in your installation kit. It goes on the bottom of the new pump. The smooth plastic portion of the adaptor faces down, and you'll snap the bottom of the pump into the adaptor. The new pump has a plastic washer that sticks out of the side of the pump, and this washer must face the open portion of the adaptor. Now, look for the black rubber grommet that has a series of holes all around its circumference. This grommet goes in the bottom of the factory rubber pump holder on the bottom of the assembly. Clean the rubber pump holder, then place the new grommet in place.

For whatever reason the supplied white plastic adaptor is way too long. Go ahead and put the pump in it right now. Notice how it sits too tall, and the smooth plastic portion of the adaptor doesn't fit snugly against the factory rubber pump holder? It has to be trimmed off. I'll tell you how much I had to trim, but due to variations, you may trim less or more. I had to trim the entire smooth portion of the pump adaptor off, plus a hint more in the ribbed section of the adaptor as well. You want the plastic tube on the bottom of the pump to sit inside of the inner hole in the new grommet, but you can't get too crazy trimming the adaptor because: A: if the tube on the bottom of the pump grounds out you'll have no suction B: the bracket and grommet that hold the top of the pump in place has very little adjustment, so if the pump sits too low, you won't be able to secure it properly.

I took my time and used a sheet of new 80 grit sandpaper to trim the adaptor. I placed the sandpaper on a firm level surface, then ran the bottom of the adaptor over it until I got the right length. Once I trimmed all of the smooth portion of the adaptor off, the tube on the bottom of the pump fit into the center hole of the grommet, and the top retainer fit snugly.

Once you've got the adaptor trimmed to the right length, it's time to tackle the metal retainer that fits over the top of the pump. Look for the second thick grommet that has a series of small indentations on the inside. This fits over the top of the pump, however, if you then try to put the factory metal retainer over the grommet, you'll notice that it doesn't fit correctly. This is because on the inside of the factory metal retainer you'll see one side forms a square shape to fit around the factory pump. You'll need to take a dremel, or a grinder, and grind away the inner edges of the retainer where it begins to form the box. If you can't picture this, place the retainer on the replacement pump and note where it comes in contact with the top of the pump. I cut away about an 1/8" of the inner edges of the retainer on both sides. Afterwards, the retainer fit perfectly over the replacement pump. Once the retainer is modified, place the new grommet over the pump then put the retainer on over it. Bolt the retainer down, and the pump should be secure at this point.

Now, install the new fuel line from the top of the replacement pump to the metal fuel line using the new line and clamps in the kit. You'll need to cut the new fuel line on both ends to get it to fit. Take your time, make small adjustments, and the new line will fit like a glove. Once this is done, you now need to wire the pump. You'll note that the factory positive connector fits perfectly over the positive terminal on the replacement pump. I went ahead and used the factory positive wire. As for the negative wire, I created a new wire and discarded the factory piece. Because the positive and negative terminals in the replacement pump are so close together, I would not use two unshielded connectors like the factory did. Instead, I crimped a shielded female connector to one end of a piece of black wire I cut from the Bosch pump wiring included in the kit, and a terminal that can accept a bolt on the other end of the wire. Once I ensured the crimps were tight, I plugged the shielded connector to the negative terminal on the pump, and placed the other end over the bolt, securing the nut after cleaning the metal area around the connecter to ensure a good ground is achieved.

With that completed, you now have a shielded negative connector on the pump, ensuring there is no way a short could occur. Next, put a dab of lacquer thinner or rubbing alcohol on a clean rag and wipe down the very bottom of the rubber factory pump holder where the filter screen attaches. The reason for this is if you just attach the new (you did buy a new filter screen, right?) filter screen you'll note it fits fairly loosely, and can be pulled of with ease. Once you wipe down the area where the screen attaches, let it dry for a second or two, go ahead and put the new screen on. Notice how it take a bit of effort to get the new screen on? Now the filter will fit like a glove, and cannot be easily removed.

At this point, you should have a fully rebuilt fuel pump assembly. Check over your work, ensuring the pump is secure and all connectors and clamps are tight. Reinstall the rubber O ring, and prepare to re-install. Just prior to re-inserting the fuel pump assembly, clean up the lock ring on both sides with a scrub pad or something similar. Also, very carefully check the bottom groove in the tank where the lock ring sits to ensure its not clogged with dirt. Even though I cleaned the area well, I found a small amount of dirt in the groove. Gently, and carefully use a small screwdriver to push the dirt down and out of the groove.

Once everything is clean, gently re-install the fuel pump assembly. There are 2 or 3 tangs on the front of the pump assembly that line up with the tank, and this is how you'll know it is properly in place. You are going to fight the rubber O ring a bit, as it wont want to center. Get the assembly in the proper position, then use a flat tip screwdriver to gently push the O ring into place. Once it is in place, hold the assembly with one hand while inserting the lock ring with the other. You'll be able to get the lock ring started by hand, and that will keep the assembly in place until you can grab your punch and hammer. To secure the lock ring, punch it in a clockwise manner until it is fully locked into place.

Once the lock ring is secure, you're good to go, you've just reinstalled your rebuilt fuel pump unit. re-install fuel lines, power to the pump, negative battery cable, and ensure all fuel clamps are tight. Turn your key to the run position and listen for the pump to work. Take a close look under the Jeep to ensure there are no fuel leaks. If it looks good, then start it up and wait for the air in the system to make its way out.