Would you recommend changing the timing chain and gears after 250,000 miles?
#1
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Would you recommend changing the timing chain and gears after 250,000 miles?
I would have preferred to ask this question in the "ask the question thread" but someone closed it.
The engine has 255,000 miles on it, never been rebuilt or anything. I just checked compression last week and the numbers where: 140, 150, 140, 145, 145, 150. Pretty damn good!
I'm going to put a lot of time and money and effort into getting this motor in tip top shape. I'm going to replace the radiator, convert to all electric fans, delete the AC compressor and put the alternator in it's place (and delete the fan pully too), install a cone filter intake from Rusty's, replace some gaskets and stuff, etc.
I don't think the timing chain has ever been changed. Should I change it while I have the front end apart and the radiator and fans out of the way??
Thanks!
The engine has 255,000 miles on it, never been rebuilt or anything. I just checked compression last week and the numbers where: 140, 150, 140, 145, 145, 150. Pretty damn good!
I'm going to put a lot of time and money and effort into getting this motor in tip top shape. I'm going to replace the radiator, convert to all electric fans, delete the AC compressor and put the alternator in it's place (and delete the fan pully too), install a cone filter intake from Rusty's, replace some gaskets and stuff, etc.
I don't think the timing chain has ever been changed. Should I change it while I have the front end apart and the radiator and fans out of the way??
Thanks!
#5
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Valve timing has a lot more undetected influence than most would think. I changed mine at 185k just cause. I instantly gained about 2 MPG and it had more power. It paid for it's self in the first couple weeks.
There is a reason they dial in cams in race cars with a degree wheel.
There is a reason they dial in cams in race cars with a degree wheel.
#7
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My chain at 217K miles was stretched to death. The rubbing block was also MIA due to the chain slapping it and beating it apart. Replace both while you are there. Its cheap insurance.
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#9
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Those need a spring loaded roller instead of a rubbing block. I have been trying to measure out a possible drop in gear drive set that might fit these. They make them for AMC V8, but I don't know if the center to center on the shafts are the same. It would be interesting to find a set that would cross over into these.
#10
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Year: 1997
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sh*t I forgot to order the rubbing block/tensioner/roller/whatever when I ordered the chain from rockauto. Oh well I get one from autozone or something
Last edited by mannydantyla; 03-05-2018 at 04:55 PM.
#11
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
An easy way to check for chain stretch is to pop the distributor cap off and put a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. crank the crank back and forth and see how much it moves before the rotor moves. Not really an exact science but it can give you an idea
#12
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Those need a spring loaded roller instead of a rubbing block. I have been trying to measure out a possible drop in gear drive set that might fit these. They make them for AMC V8, but I don't know if the center to center on the shafts are the same. It would be interesting to find a set that would cross over into these.
#13
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Year: 97
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Oh man, sorry about that, didn't mean to mess you up there. They have a block but what I meant was that they would be better served if they had some sort of spring/roller tensioner instead that stupid rubber block. lol
#14
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Haha its all good. I think it wouldn't be too hard to retrofit one out of an LS engine. Drill 2 holes, tap them and call it a day
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