Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.

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Old 12-19-2012, 02:37 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Hi, new to the forum and jeeps for the most part. i bought a red 1990 xj 4.0 with 225k on it and bad blow-by for $250. I pulled that motor and decided there was no saving it without full rebuild. I found a good running white 1990 xj 4.0 with 190k with just a bad headgasket for $375. I pulled that motor out and dropped it into the red XJ hooked everything up, before install I made sure the head was good and not warped, new gaskets on everything. as far as i can tell every sensor is hooked up right. Yesterday i went to fire it up and all it would do was cough and sputter. would crank well, rotated the distrbuter 180* to see if that was the problem. and it did the save thing. battery finally died so i charged it over night. Now with a good battery it wont even crank over.
Does anyone know what might be the problem with it not starting??? tried both coils same thing, and i think the starter is the reason it wont crank today but not sure. any help would be great.
Josh
Old 12-19-2012, 04:51 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Setting Your 4.0 at #1 TDC
 
With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark them with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.

Then this:



Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.

Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.

Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.

If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.

Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.

Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.

Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.

Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.
Revised 07/03/2012

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