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Why are my shift solenoids and blower resistor getting fried?
Guys/Gals,
I have replaced my shift solenoids twice so far, in about 4 years. The symptom is 3rd gear starts getting hesitant about shifting, and then eventually stops completely. Replacing the solenoids fixes this. Also, the blower resister has been replaced twice. It fries everything except setting 4 (where there is no resistance). Can anyone suggest what would be causing this problem? Is there something causing too much voltage or something? 1997 XJ 4x4 (AW4) I6 Stock |
Here is some solenoid troubleshooting information:
http://www.rossdecco.com/solenoid-troubleshooting.html Given your description, it is probably more likely that the voltage is actually too low, so the solenoid never closes and the amperage continues to flow (current) which burns out the solenoid. There is some information at that link above to help identify between low and high voltage problems. I don't immediately see how the two problems you mention would be related. Normally what keeps the fan resister from melting down is the fan itself. The resister is positioned in the airstream of the fan wheel so that it is cooled at the same time it is resisting (like a hairdryer heating element basically). Is it possible that the airflow down there is not very good? Have you used a multimeter to test your system voltage while the vehicle is running? When was the last time you cleaned up all of your accessible electrical connections under the hood? |
Originally Posted by jordan96xj
(Post 3541138)
Here is some solenoid troubleshooting information:
http://www.rossdecco.com/solenoid-troubleshooting.html Given your description, it is probably more likely that the voltage is actually too low, so the solenoid never closes and the amperage continues to flow (current) which burns out the solenoid. There is some information at that link above to help identify between low and high voltage problems. I don't immediately see how the two problems you mention would be related. Normally what keeps the fan resister from melting down is the fan itself. The resister is positioned in the airstream of the fan wheel so that it is cooled at the same time it is resisting (like a hairdryer heating element basically). Is it possible that the airflow down there is not very good? Have you used a multimeter to test your system voltage while the vehicle is running? When was the last time you cleaned up all of your accessible electrical connections under the hood? Blown blower motor resistor is usually due to the blower motor being worn and drawing too much power. This also usually leads to melting of the wiring around that area (which if not corrected will lead to subsequent resistor failures - or the appearance thereof). |
OK, thanks... I'll check out the link. Electrical stuff is still largely a mystery to me.
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Originally Posted by mtyson
(Post 3541150)
OK, thanks... I'll check out the link. Electrical stuff is still largely a mystery to me.
fans wont pull more current unless they are absolutely worn out, which will be indicated by a grinding or rattling sound upon start up |
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